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Konica Impresa 50 film


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I'm going to try some of this film as I found a place here in town

that can bring this stuff in special order with no minimums. I live

in BC Canada. They have it in stock at the warehouse. Anyway what are

your opinions on this film? I hear its close to Royal Gold films in

look. Also the blue cast I read this film sometimes has- is there

anyway to filter this film to help get rid of this? Its funny the

cost of this film is double of the US prices though. Would an 80A

filter help warm this film up?

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I tried a few rolls. It was quirky, but I liked it. The colors were bright and contrasty. It didn't seem to have the exposure lattitude of faster film, though, and I wouldn't want to use it for something where I had to be sure of good results.
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if you're shooting negative film it seems to me there should be no need for a cc filter. Dial in cc when printing or digitally if you scan. simple as that.

I print it in a conventional darkroom and I simply start with less cyan than when printing other films. I never use filters. never been a problem for me.

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Oops I goofed on the filter type- yah I meant 81A. I ordered some 35mm as well, so I'll be able to take it to work and print it myself and see how it turns out. Does this film really look like the Royal Gold 25 film? Also if it has a low lattitude, then that would be equivalent to RG25 which also had very little play in the exposure. Nothing new there.
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Konica Impresa looks a lot like Royal/Ektar 100 in terms of color saturation and contrast, except it has much finer grain. RG-25 and Impresa aren't even close to each other. Bad analogy.

 

Impresa is actually not very saturated at all with poor yellows and oranges, and yet deep burgandy reds. The film delivers exellent, liquid looking blues, cyans and greens due to Konica's rather quirky dye technology. I've used this film in the past for commercial work or car shows were I needed a lot of extreme detail, more contrast than portrait films, yet no chance of blowing out strong colors, which Impresa is unable to do.

 

It's an interesting film with a unique palette, but to be honest, it would be worthless except for it's super fine grain as a claim to fame. I avoid it for organic subjects and consider it a 'dead thing' film because it's skin tones are pretty lousy.

 

I also advise shooting this stuff around EI 30 because it's thin at EI 50 and delivers weak prints. Works best with Kodak processing unless you are using a Frontier, and using a warming filter won't help it's cool shifted tendency.

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I noticed in Photography Mag that they listed this film as haing 130/80 lpm. On the internet here they list it as 160/63. Which one is correct? I got my rolls today, so I'll be using the first one next week. Came in rather quick, and again I had to buy no minimums of the stuff. They only brought in the amount I requested.
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Oops thats HAVING 130/80. Anyway if I use this film on a very bright sunny day with lots of contrast in the shots like mountain landscape shots with trees, etc- would this film be better rated at 32 ASA as Scott Eaton recommends, or 41 ASA to allow for the extra contrast/ brightness in the shots? I dont want to over- overexpose it. The cameras light meter (AE-1) is the averaging type, so its not that accurate. I will also be bringing along a P67 for the trip, but with different film loaded.
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I shot a few rolls of Impresa50, both in 120 and 35mm. Basically even though the film touts itself as low contrast, it has a narrower exposure latitude. How can a film be low contrast yet have a narrow latitude??? If there are deep shadows and you expose for them, there will be very washed out highlights. Films like Kodak Supra 100, my favorite all-around ISO 100, Fuji Superia 100, Agfa Ultra 100, and Reala do much better in that regard. Go to <a href=http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005qdD target="_blank">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005qdD</a> to see a good Impresa50 photo as well as a problem photo. It seems that in exposures longer than 1/8th of a second, highlights tend to go a sickly yellow if you are exposing for the shadows. My postings are at the bottom today as of September 14, 2003.
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