Infrared film

[chrissy_hespen]

This past weekend I saw some work done from infrared film....I've

been trying to do some research on it, but can't quite understand

what I've found. What is this film, what does it do? What type of

filter do you need on your camera when using this film? Is the

processing different? Just the general info is what I'm in search

of. Thanks.

[eric friedemann]

Infared Ektachrome:

 

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/cis188/cis188.jhtml

 

Kodak B&W Infared:

 

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankBW.jhtml

[eric friedemann]

And this:

 

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/catalog/kodakProfessionalHighSpeedInfraredFilm.jhtml?id=0.3.8.20.26&lc=en

 

Basically, B&W infrared film is sensitive to that portion of the light spectrum. As such, foliage, which has a very high reflectance of infrared light will generally turn white, while a clear sky will be rendered dark.

 

A inexpensive 25A red filter will be fine. However, best results can be had with a filter like the Hoya R72, which passes only infrared rays above 720nm or the verrrry pricey RM90 that passes only that light above 900nm.

[stephen hazelton]

Black and white infrared film is basically processed the same as regular B&W. The main difference is that the film canister is not entirely lightproof to infrared, so all film handling should be done in darkness (including loading and unloading the camera). This applies particularly to Kodak IR, less so to other brands- read their instructions.

 

Filter- you can use #25 (cheap, easy to find), #29 (cheap, less common), or the more expensive IR filters. With the more opaque filters, you have to compose, then put the filter on- filter is more or less opaque.

 

Be aware that Kodak IR film is expensive (about $15 a roll around here), and using it typically involves bracketing. If you don't do your own processing, then processing gets more expensive compared to regular color print film. In other words, cost-per-shot goes way up on the equipment side.

 

B&W infrared film generally turns skies black and foliage white, which gives things a different look- but can be used for lots of different shots where the difference is not so obvious. I seem to recall that someone on here had published a book of house photos taken on IR, mainly using a yellow filter.

 

Color IR film is a slide film, that using different filters, gives false colors- foliage turns red, etc. It too is expensive (made only by Kodak, I believe). The current color IR film is E6 processed, same as most non-Kodachrome slide films. (If you start reading up on it, you'll find references to an out of date IR film that used E4 processing, whatever that was). If you try it, check with your lab to make sure their processing doesn't fog IR film (this is the case with B&W, too).

[kevinteo]

<p>You can start by looking <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/

edscott/spectsel">here</a>.</p>

 

<p>Just a couple more things you should know before you go

out and buy a roll. You generally can't use a camera that uses IR

LEDs to advance the film or the film will fog.</p>

 

<p>In terms of features, Kodak's HIE lacks an anti-halation

backing, allowing light to pass through the emulsion and reflect

back off the pressure plate. This causes the familiar halo effect

that that is associated with HIE.</p>

 

<p>You'll also need to compensate you focus when you shoot in

black and white infrared. How much you should adjust you focus

depends on the IR sensitivity of the film and the filter that you're

using. The IR correction mark on most lens barrels are correct

for Kodak HIE with a Wratten 89B filter.</p>

 

<p>Infrared wavelengths are more susceptible to diffraction than

visble light, so try to keep the aperture at f13 or larger.</p>

 

</p>Lastly, if you want infrared accuracy with Kodak EIR (the

color infrared), you should use process AR-5. Using the E-6

process will cause some subtle color shifts.

[chris_waller]

I'm assuming you mean Kodak HIE b+w IR film. Shoot through an R25 red filter. Rate the film at 400 ASA. I recommend you use an incident light meter (set at 50 ASA to allow for the 3 stop loss of the R25 fiter). If using the camera's internal light-meter, then check that it shows a 3 stop reduction when the filter is fitted. Some camera meters are specially sensitive to red so cause under-exposure. I like to use a 28 mm wide-angle lens. It adds to the 'other worldly' look of IR. I shoot at the smallest aperture I can and ignore any focussing correction. I never bracket. HIE has no anti-halation layer and over-exposure blocks up the highlights. I dev in Rodinal diluted 1:50, 20 C, 11 minutes. Four inversion during the first 30 seconds, one at the end of the ifrst minute, then one every minute after that.

[oliver_tan1]

I must also say that IR film is grainy but it smooths or hides "wrinkles" or pores your subject may have. IR film is not only used for landscape photos but also for portraits. It is hard to use IR film because of the fast that you have to load and unload the film in total darkness. You also need to adjust for the IR focus point. Here's an example:

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1483466&size=md"></img></center>

[foo_foo2]

I have a Nikon N65 which uses infrared for the frame counter. I did some research online and it is supposed to not be a problem to shoot IR with this camera (or the N90, N70, etc. - the F3,F5 don't seem to use infrared frame counters). I just shot my first roll of the Kodak HIE and will be developing it tonight, so I hope they were right! The other drawback to this camera is that the (unrated) HIE is rated at 100 when loaded and there is no way to override the setting to 400 to do through the lense metering. A fully manual camera is probably easier to use, since you have to correct for the focus anyway. I purchased and read the _Advanced Infrared Photography Handbook_ mentioned somewhere in the "Learn" section by Mr. Greenspun and found it very useful for a beginner like myself, though I have yet to put it to practice. I'd recommend it if you can find it at the library or have the money to spend on Powellsbooks.com

[winfried_buechsenschuetz1]

Don't forget that normal lenses are not corrected (or optimized) for infrared. The point of exact focus is somewhat different for IR. Many lenses still have a focus indicator for IR film. You first have to focus exactly and then set the value indicated to the IR indicator. I have heard that some autofocus cameras have a special setting to modify focussing to IR focussing.

[oliver_tan1]

With the F65, you can actually "set" your ISO by using the EV feature of the camera. For example, using a 400 ISO film, set your EV to -2, this means that you are actually shooting your film at E.I. 1600. At EV +2, it will be E.I. 100.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong on the numbers.