Lens for interior architechture photography

[marc schneider dc metro]

I'm interested in interior architechture photography and was looking

to get a 24mm lens for this. The question is how useful with the tilt

shift functions of the 24mm TS lens be? Is it worth it to get this

lens versus one of the 24mm primes? Will the quality of the images be

similar to the 24mm 1.4L?

[nick_doan]

If you have the money, I'd get the TS lens. If yuo don't the Canon 24/2.8 is around $300-350 US.

 

You might want to take a look at this site, it shows some differences between the prime and the TS.

 

http://cybaea.com/photo/lens-quality.html

[ellis_vener_photography]

Tilt and Shift are two distinct functions. The tilt function is useful for some studio

product photography and some landscape photography. Tilting the lens elements

redistributes the plane of focus, but does little or nothing for correcting perspective.

If you can tilt the film plane changes the distribution of focus and "corrects' the

perspective rendition as it allows you to make the film plane (or sensor plane) parallel

withthe vertical plane if the camera body is tilted. <P>Shift is very useful for the

above two situations and also for achitectural photography. It allows you to make

sure the film plane is vertical and then to shift the angle of view captured by the film

(sensor) to includethe subject elements desired.

[robin_sibson1]

The tilt function is not likely to be particularly useful for architectural photography, but the shift function is designed for just this kind of work, and I find it invaluable for 'townscape' generally. A recent test (sorry I cannot remember the reference) compared the 24/1.4L, the TS24/3.5 centred, and one of the L zooms at 24 (but unfortunately not the 24/2.8) and came to the conclusion that there was not much to choose between them at equal apertures. The TS, as you might expect, when centred has negligible vignetting and very low distortion. If you push the lens to the limit of shift, obviously there is some fall-off of performance, but it may well offer the only way to obtain the photograph. A couple of points to note. First, metering can only be carried out with the lens centred, so unless you are using it in that position you need to use manual mode and set the exposure before shifting or tilting the lens. Secondly, and rather surprisingly, it fits physically onto the Extenders, and with the x1.4 is a useful 34mm TS, surprisingly good optically, but without the aperture setting conversion that requires the extra contacts on the lens.

[melissa_eiselein]

I have a Canon 24mm f/2.8 and I've found it to be a great focal length for interior room shots on my film camera. (not so great on my 10D). It's sharp and does a good job of capturing color and contrast.

<p>If you do a lot of architectural work and can afford the tilt/shift lens, then get one. I've not used a tilt/shift, but I've come home with many a photo of "falling" buildings that would not have appeared to be tipping if I'd had the tilt/shift.

[gerry_szarek]

Robin the review you are thinking about is on www.luminouslandscape.com .

[jonathan_ratzlaff]

If you are serious about architectural photography, you don't have a lot of choice. You will need the tilt shift lens. I have used nikon's 28mm shift for architecture and it is invaluable for eliminiating distortion. The 24 will be even more useful for this. ewpecially if you are photographing near and far objects where you want everything in focus and no converging lines.

[eosdoc]

<a name=jul href=mailto:uce@ftc.gov></a>

I find that when I shoot indoors, limitations in positioning, framing, and lighting are the biggest headaches. So, did you consider a wide-angle zoom instead? My EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM is not quite as sharp as the prime, but the versatility in framing more than makes up for this.

<P>

Only when it turns out that the framing demands a 24mm focal length, I will swap to my EF 24mm f/2.8, which I consider a useful, but not a great focal length for interior room shots on my <a href=

http://yahoogroup.com/group/elan7e

>Elan 7E</a>.

<P>

However, I do have an <a href=

http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=TS-E24f35L

>TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L</a> which is useful not only for perspective correction (i.e. straightening the film plane), but also for selective focus effects. I suggest that it is more useful in the field where portability is the priority rather than image quality. (Although the combined weight of a 410 geared head, carbon fibre tripod, camera and lens is not exactly light).

<P>

If you are really interested in shooting indoors with camera movements, a large format view camera has more movements (e.g. back tilt) and can be cheaper and produce tremendously larger images than 35mm. Or so my LF-toting friend keeps reminding me, that soundrel¡¡¡ :-)

<P>

I have no experience with the EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L USM nor the EF 24mm f/1.4L USM so other than noting that they exist, I shall abstain from commenting in case I make a fool of myself.

[christopher_engeler]

For your money, you may consider a Voigtlander rangefinder and their superb 15mm lens. If you are careful inpositioning, it will give stupendous interior views! You can get this camera and lens for less than $500. Thios aspherical lesn has a 110 degree field of view! It is also a very light camera and a relatively tiny lens compared with EOS.