james_driscoll2 Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Hello, After a slight hiatus from doing my own film processing, I have decided (due to budget reasons) to get back into it. I mainly shoot sheet film these days, with a little 35mm thrown in and altough I have used diafine a few years ago with 35mm, I never tried it with sheet film. The bottom line is that I am quite lazy when it comes to processing, and I do not have the drive or the facilites to become a film developing "buff". Diafine is just easier. I shoot APX 100 and tri-x 320, and was wondering if anyone uses any other EI rating other than what is suggested on the diafine box. Also, I will be processing on hangers in tanks, and has anyone had a problem with diafine with this setup??? I am also considering playing with some of the films that J and C photo has to offer- such as Efke 25 and "J and C classic" anyone have experience with these bad boys in diafine??? To sum it up my main questions are: EI ratings of others with sheet film in diafine. Problems with diafine with Hanger and Tank Processing. Capacity of Diafine (how many sheets of 8x10, before throwing out) Just hearing what others have to say, there is just something cool about using a developer like diafine!!! thanks james driscoll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_walton2 Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 I usually get the gallon kit (or mix it up from scratch) and have been using it for years with 4x5. I rate the film at speed and love the results. I use TXP, Ektapan, APX400 & 100 and occasionally HP5+ and love the results. Great shadow detail, highlights that are very printable on my cold light and sharpness that is superb. I did alot of testing and came to the conclusion that the speed increase that is stated is a bit on the high bias! 35mm maybe but with my 4x5's... at speed. I process with the racks and don't agitate heavily at all. First 15 sec., lift and rock and then lift and drain every 45 seconds+-. I have used the same gallon for up to 1.5 years, (yes, years!) and don't want to push it any further. I have never had a failure yet and the contrast doesn't change throughout! I put alot of film through and I love the results... great contrast and very sharp negs. I usually mix up a Qt version too and only use it for replacing the volume lost in Bath A due to carry over. Some people like the results when using t-grained films but I don't like the density. If I have to use TMX, I process those in DD23. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_karp Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 I agree that with sheet film the IE numbers on the Diafine box are a little bit enthusiastic. I have not used it with 35mm since I was a kid, but even then I rated Plus-X or Tri-X at their rated speeds. I rate HP5+ or Arista 400 at 200, I could use 400 in a pinch, but then lose some shadow detail. Diafine seems to last forever, I am sure that I dump it before I have to, but I just get too nervous to keep it any longer (6 months). It is great for scenes with a broad contrast range. However, in flat lighting you might find that you want to intensify the negative in selenium toner to kick up the contrast a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_hull Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 James: I have only experience in 120 and 35mm. All my 4x5 I develop in Xtol. I have found that APX100 at 200 looks very good with great shadow detail. Tri-X 320 in 120 format I have found to be best at about 800. That being said, I have even shot HP5+ at 400 and gotten very dense negatives that nonetheless, printed through very nicely. I would err to the overexposure side as with Diafine it is tough to block up the highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_karp Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 James, I forgot to mention: I have processed sheet film in Diafine using the Kodak hangers with excellent results, and with a processing panel of the type described by Phil Bard (www.philbard.com) with similarly excellent results. I leave the film in solution A for 4 minutes and solution B for 4 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene crumpler Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 I rate both 120 tmax 100 and delta 100 at 50 for development in Diafine. I got this tip from John Sexton's critique of my Diafine negatives. Gets the shadow details and highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally_hess Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 From memory, isn't there a minimum processing temperature that must be used with Diafine? I ask because I work in my basement where the ambient temperature is around F60 to F68 depending on season. Will Diafine work at these lower temperatures? I'm not set up for water baths to maintain a constant temperature. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Wally, I have the same situation with a basement darkroom in NW Wisconsin. The temperature bump needed is so slight (I believe the temp recommended is 70+) that I just put my chemicals in a small tub (dishwashing size) while I'm loading my reels. The tub takes up less room than a developing tray and I don't need all that warm of a water temp to bring things into correct range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_karp Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 The recommended temperature range for Diafine is 70 - 85 degrees F. There is a helpful information sheet on Diafine (and other Acufine products) at: http://www.bkaphoto.com/index.cgi?section=Black+White&show_page_in_frame=black_white_howtouse.html&heading=How+To+Use&cart_id=1672562.18733 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally_hess1 Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Thanks for the temperature information. What happens, though, if Diafine is used at a lower temperature than 70F? Does it just stop working, or gives weird results? I'm not setup for a water bath at this point - heck , I dont even have running water in the basement and have to bring gallon water jugs down by hand from the kitchen.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene crumpler Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Do the processing in the kitchen. I use to do this when I was not married for about 7 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry_kenstler Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 James, Sorry, I'm a bit late to answer your question, but here is what I can add. All of these comments pertain to 120 format film run in Diafine at 20 deg. C, with 4 minutes in both the A and B solutions. Agitation was that recommended by manufacturer. I have run lots of APX 100 through this stuff. I rate my film around 125 and get full density negatives that are slightly soft. They usually require a grade 2.5 filtering on my setup when using Agfa Premium RC paper. The resulting gradation is very appealing for the portraiture that I do. Some may prefer the added highlight contrast that a developer like HC-110 (B) delivers. Tri-X TXP develops up a bit softer than APX 100, requiring a grade 3 or greater with my system. I think this film should be rated around 500, but gives good negatives from 250 through 1000. My experience is limited with this emulsion. The EFKE 100 film is a very good partner for Diafine. It can be printed without filtration on my set-up and delivers subtle but clearly differentiated shadow tones with nice highlight separation. To my taste, the combo delivers a nearly perfect negative with no fuss. The grain and sharpness aren't bad either. I haven't tried the slower EFKE films with this developer, but with the inherently high contrast of these films, I'd guess they would be a bit contrasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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