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Questions For You Diafine Users


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Hello,

 

After a slight hiatus from doing my own film processing, I have

decided (due to budget reasons) to get back into it.

 

I mainly shoot sheet film these days, with a little 35mm thrown in

and altough I have used diafine a few years ago with 35mm, I

never tried it with sheet film.

 

The bottom line is that I am quite lazy when it comes to

processing, and I do not have the drive or the facilites to become

a film developing "buff". Diafine is just easier.

 

I shoot APX 100 and tri-x 320, and was wondering if anyone uses

any other EI rating other than what is suggested on the diafine

box. Also, I will be processing on hangers in tanks, and has

anyone had a problem with diafine with this setup???

 

I am also considering playing with some of the films that J and C

photo has to offer- such as Efke 25 and "J and C classic" anyone

have experience with these bad boys in diafine???

 

To sum it up my main questions are:

 

EI ratings of others with sheet film in diafine.

Problems with diafine with Hanger and Tank Processing.

Capacity of Diafine (how many sheets of 8x10, before throwing

out)

Just hearing what others have to say, there is just something

cool about using a developer like diafine!!!

 

thanks

james driscoll

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I usually get the gallon kit (or mix it up from scratch) and have been using it for

years with 4x5. I rate the film at speed and love the results. I use TXP,

Ektapan, APX400 & 100 and occasionally HP5+ and love the results. Great

shadow detail, highlights that are very printable on my cold light and

sharpness that is superb. I did alot of testing and came to the conclusion that

the speed increase that is stated is a bit on the high bias! 35mm maybe but

with my 4x5's... at speed. I process with the racks and don't agitate heavily at

all. First 15 sec., lift and rock and then lift and drain every 45 seconds+-. I

have used the same gallon for up to 1.5 years, (yes, years!) and don't want to

push it any further. I have never had a failure yet and the contrast doesn't

change throughout! I put alot of film through and I love the results... great

contrast and very sharp negs. I usually mix up a Qt version too and only use it

for replacing the volume lost in Bath A due to carry over. Some people like the

results when using t-grained films but I don't like the density. If I have to use

TMX, I process those in DD23.

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I agree that with sheet film the IE numbers on the Diafine box are a little bit enthusiastic. I have not used it with 35mm since I was a kid, but even then I rated Plus-X or Tri-X at their rated speeds. I rate HP5+ or Arista 400 at 200, I could use 400 in a pinch, but then lose some shadow detail. Diafine seems to last forever, I am sure that I dump it before I have to, but I just get too nervous to keep it any longer (6 months).

 

It is great for scenes with a broad contrast range. However, in flat lighting you might find that you want to intensify the negative in selenium toner to kick up the contrast a bit.

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James:

 

I have only experience in 120 and 35mm. All my 4x5 I develop in Xtol. I have found that APX100 at 200 looks very good with great shadow detail. Tri-X 320 in 120 format I have found to be best at about 800. That being said, I have even shot HP5+ at 400 and gotten very dense negatives that nonetheless, printed through very nicely. I would err to the overexposure side as with Diafine it is tough to block up the highlights.

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James,

 

I forgot to mention: I have processed sheet film in Diafine using the Kodak hangers with excellent results, and with a processing panel of the type described by Phil Bard (www.philbard.com) with similarly excellent results. I leave the film in solution A for 4 minutes and solution B for 4 minutes.

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From memory, isn't there a minimum processing temperature that must be used with Diafine? I ask because I work in my basement where the ambient temperature is around F60 to F68 depending on season. Will Diafine work at these lower temperatures? I'm not set up for water baths to maintain a constant temperature. Thanks.
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Wally, I have the same situation with a basement darkroom in NW Wisconsin. The temperature bump needed is so slight (I believe the temp recommended is 70+) that I just put my chemicals in a small tub (dishwashing size) while I'm loading my reels. The tub takes up less room than a developing tray and I don't need all that warm of a water temp to bring things into correct range.
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Thanks for the temperature information. What happens, though, if Diafine is used at a lower temperature than 70F? Does it just stop working, or gives weird results? I'm not setup for a water bath at this point - heck , I dont even have running water in the basement and have to bring gallon water jugs down by hand from the kitchen.

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

James,

 

Sorry, I'm a bit late to answer your question, but here is what I can add. All of these comments pertain to 120 format film run in Diafine at 20 deg. C, with 4 minutes in both the A and B solutions. Agitation was that recommended by manufacturer.

 

I have run lots of APX 100 through this stuff. I rate my film around 125 and get full density negatives that are slightly soft. They usually require a grade 2.5 filtering on my setup when using Agfa Premium RC paper. The resulting gradation is very appealing for the portraiture that I do. Some may prefer the added highlight contrast that a developer like HC-110 (B) delivers.

 

Tri-X TXP develops up a bit softer than APX 100, requiring a grade 3 or greater with my system. I think this film should be rated around 500, but gives good negatives from 250 through 1000. My experience is limited with this emulsion.

 

The EFKE 100 film is a very good partner for Diafine. It can be printed without filtration on my set-up and delivers subtle but clearly differentiated shadow tones with nice highlight separation. To my taste, the combo delivers a nearly perfect negative with no fuss. The grain and sharpness aren't bad either. I haven't tried the slower EFKE films with this developer, but with the inherently high contrast of these films, I'd guess they would be a bit contrasty.

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