Texas trip help

[jeff_kay]

Hi all, I'm a newbie on here. I'm planning on taking a week vacation

around west Texas in June. Starting at the DFW airport, spending a

day in Amarillo (Duro Canyon), then working south to the

Odessa/Midland area, then west to Gaudalupe, then south to Big Bend,

finally over to San Antonio and back north to DFW.

 

I'm planning on at least one day for Gaudalupe and 2 days for Big

Bend.

 

Questions - Since my time will be limited, does anyone know of a good

source for info on photo opprotunties? I have the Texas travel guide

which is pretty good, but I'm looking for better info.

 

thanks

[ellis_vener_photography]

That is a huge amount of gtound to cover in a week. Schedule two days at Palo Duro

-- and don't forget to chck out the Cadillac Ranch just west of Amarillo on IH-20. The

Cadillac Installion is copyrighted and the creators vigorously enforce their

copyright , so don't plan on selling those images as commercial stock images.

editorial and personal print sales seem to be fine with the artists.<P>Big Bend NP

deserves at least three to four days. You really will be foolish to try to see it in

anything less. Also plan on spending an afternoon in Marfa at the Chinati (sp?)

Foundation. In marathon , across the railroad tracks from the Gage Hotel -- where I

recommend you stay unless you already have reservations in the Big Bend USNP --

you'll find photographer James H. evans. Great photographer, & a good

conversationalist. Please tell him "Hello" for for me. There are also the Guadalupe

Mountains, which I do not know much about. Also take an evening and hit the Ft

Davis observatory about 100 miles north of the NP.<P>My advice would be to skip

the San Antonio leg of your trip and spend more time in these places.<P>

 

Of course in June it will already be damned hot! So carry lots of water. There isn't

much to see in Midland/ Odessa but if you skip San Antonio / Austin you'll have two

chances to discover this.

[keith_van_hulle1]

You do realize just how big Texas is, right? 6 hours from DFW to Amarillo, 8 from there to Guadalupe, 6 hours to big bend, and 9 or so back to the airport. Part of the problem is lack of direct, high speed roads (altho every road in Texas seems to be high speed). Assuming you're not with a family or group, you could probably do this, but you'll have to really move to fit everything in.

 

Ditto the water also. There is NONE at either big park; you're out in the middle of nowhere. Amarillo might not be too bad temp wise but Big Bend is gonna be stinkin' hot.

 

What kind of pictures are you looking to shoot? Wildlife, nature, landscapes, rural scenes - knowing this may help in suggestions.

[stemked]

Ditto on the other responders. It is a huge trip you are trying to pull off. If you are really thinking about heading south I'd personally skip Amarillo and Duro Canyon. How does one put it, the trip is largely 'uneventful' until you get to the canyon. In fact, I'd probably Fly Southwest to El Paso and rent a car from there.

 

I think that Gaudalupe is a nice place (including the hike up an old Coral Reef, the tallest mountion in Texas). Also nearby in New Mexico is Carlsbad Caverns; watching those 2 million bats leave all at once is really quite an event. There is a 'lost valley' in Gaudalupe , lots of Maples (scare in Texas). Big Bend is FANTASTIC (at least it was in March, never been there in June). Hot is a key word but it might be a little better up in the mountains (as opposed to out on the open desert). I spent a week there (Big Bend) and feel I only saw a tiny amount of it. Do not miss the big canyons on the River (Boquais?) and going up into 'The Basin.' It used to be nice to go across into Mexico from the Park but I think it's all been closed down thanks to the Feds. There is a fantastic hike up in the Basin, (can't recall the name) but it takes you to The South Rim. Lots of wildlife in The Basin but you should get up early for it.

 

Oh, and if you want you socks knocked off by a cave (yes a cave) the Caverns of Sonora are a tourist trap WORTH the stop. Fantastic.

 

It's been almost 16 years since I was there but it still leaves quite an impact on one.

[stemked]

San Antonio is a beautiful place to visit, but is turning more and more into just a side show tourist trap (I'm very sorry to say because I really love San Antonio). If you must go and see the Alamo do it, walk some of the Canals eat some Tex-Mex and then split.

[stemked]

I forgot, the Missions are probably one of the best things to see in San Antonio. (the Alamo is one of several)

[stephen hazelton]

Take a tripod and high speed film. That way, you can photograph at night, because you'll be driving all day, every day (Just kidding, but I tally up about 1500 miles for the round trip).

 

In order: DFW- not much to see, other than stuff you can see in every big city. Probably the most unique (but not necessarily photogenic) thing is the 6th floor museum/ grassy knoll in Dallas. The old Stock Yards in Fort Worth are a popular tourist spot, but I haven't been to them.

 

Palo Duro Canyon- good spot, lots of red rock. Watch for blowing sand (locally, not big sandstorms). The "Light House" formation is about a 3 mile hike, one way, as I recall. Make sure you have reservations ahead of time for whereever you're staying. There are semi-tame wild turkeys in the park, be on the lookout for them.

 

Midland/ Odessa- chiefly noted for oil production, not scenic beauty. Probably pump jacks would be the most photogenic thing around. Watch for, but don't exepct to photograph, jack rabbits.

 

Guadalupe Mountains National Park- Much of the park is seen by hiking. Most of the hiking trails start off uphill. It will be hot. There is no backcountry water of any kind available. So be prepared. Best scenery: distant vistas or shots of cacti/ yucca, etc. There are also some old ruins of a stage station not too far off the road. Also, McKittrick Canyon is very nice- you can hike 3 miles or so up it before you get to the steeper climbs. I have read that the sunrise viewed off one of the mountains is not to be missed, but have not seen it, myself.

 

Big Bend- haven't been there. Note the "Big" in "Big Bend", tho.

 

San Antonio- can't think of much to see there that you can't see in lots of other big cities. The Alamo is there, but they don't allow photography inside the chapel itself, it'll be crowded, and your shot of the front will look like every picture you ever saw of it. There are some other missions in much better shape in the area, but I haven't toured them. You can go to the River Walk and photograph other tourists next to a river that you could throw a bowling ball across.

 

My general observations and preferences:

It is supposed to be cooler at the tops of the mountains at Big Bend and Guadalupe Mountains, but it is a good hike to get up them, especially with a gallon or two of water.

 

If you're going all the way to Guadalupe Mountains, you might as well drive 60 miles up the road and see Carlsbad Caverns.

 

I would rather spend a day photographing at Enchanted Rock than in San Antonio (typically cacti, wildflowers, etc).

 

On the long drives in west Texas, some of the best scenery you'll see is the nighttime sky. Not good in Palo Duro Canyon (Amarillo is too close), but when you get miles and miles from anywhere at night, it can be impressive.

[bill_proud]

Do you have to check a bowling ball for the flight, or is that comsidered a carry on item?

[dane_skye]

Jeff-

 

Let me confirm some of the other advice- Texas is a BIG state, that is alot for just a week. I can easily spend a week in either Big Bend or Guadalupe Mountains. A good trip would be a week between them and that will only give you the highlights.

 

June is HOT! About the hottest month in the desert. The summer rainy season is just about to start then and the place is parched. I have been in Big Bend in May and the night time temp never got below 92 on the desert floor!

 

Both parks are still pretty scenic, even in June. I would hit the two of them and avoid Amarillo and San Antonio. Palo Duro is ok, but the National Parks are much better.

 

Guadalupe Mountains- No store. no gas. no hotels. Be self contained. Less than 20 tent sites and there is water. Hike McKittrick Canyon one day. Climb Guadalupe Peak another. If you have more time, hike Devils Hall, drive Williams Ranch road (4x4 only!), and go watch sunset from salt flats west of park.

 

Best photos are of El Capitan at sunset from boulder field just west of the 180/54 split and from salt flat a few miles west of 180/54 split.

 

Big Bend- Camp in Basin campground. It will be cooler than the 2 desert campgrounds. Hike South Rim 1 day and maybe backpack overnight there. Hike Window for sunset photo from Basin campground. Grapevine hills balanced rock for sunup. Drive Glenn springs-River Road 1 day. Soak in hotsprings! Park has gas and stores but still be contained. Border is closed, so Mexico is off limits. You might want to raft Santa Elena canyon- 1 day.

 

Tim Fitzharris has a good book on National Park photography that covers Big Bend and has a shot from Guadalupe in front pages. Also both park websites have some pics.

 

Take lots of film and water. Camp. Go for the parks. Also, you might want to fly to El Paso and skip Dallas, amarillo, Sanantonio.

 

Have fun!!

[mark_lester1]

Lots of sound advice from others here. Alamo filled with touristas. See Alamo, but buy postcards. Check http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us for sure. Phototraveller.com has good info. If try to cram in too much, will miss more. Lots of flat land for miles, watch for boredom. Skip DFW/San Antonio/Houston, just big cities. Many small towns have courthouse on square, some built by WPA (Palo Pinto, Albany). I know many parts of West Texas very well, much should be avoided, but I still miss the big vistas.

Any Richeson family owned DQ is a good place to eat, also HaTaHo's if you can find 'em.<div></div>

[jeff_kay]

It sounds like maybe I should wait until fall for this trip. Although I was planning on doing the Grand Canyon and Utah then, also in a week (Vegas to Salt Lake). I'm not to worried about time, I did the Mt. Rushmore/Devils Tower/Yellowstone thing last year in a week but ran out of film (dozen rolls).

 

I've been waiting for the new Olympus 750 to come out so I don't have to worry about film for now on (I just have to worry about going digital!).

[ekovisions]

Ok--so you think you want to drive this route. Don't say we didn't warn you. I live in Dallas, and let me tell you, you FLY to Big Bend. Or even Midland. You mighta done long miles before, but these are *not* pretty or entertaining miles.

[ellis_vener_photography]

To quote Texas Poet Laurate (or is that Lariat) , Kinky Friedman: "Anyone who brags

about their harddrive has obviously never driven from Austin to Amarillo."<P>As I

recall June is the hottest month in Big Bend.

[stemked]

While we are on Texas:

 

A rich cattleman and a poor dirt farmer were chewin' the tabacco. In the way of Texans the braggin' started up.

 

The rich guy started, "You know it takes me three whole days to drive my truck around my property."

 

Unflinching, the poor guy goes, "Yah, that used to be true for me too."

 

The rich guy looks down at the poor guy, figuring he has the upper hand and said, "So what happened?"

 

The poor guy replied, "I got me a new truck."

[eye-of-searle]

Good Lord, it sounds like you are traveling alone on this trip. You will fall asleep and crash into a tumbleweed or a cactus within an hour or two of getting outside Ft Worth. This is not a trip to "Drive" alone. There is nothing along those roads, really! Skip the cities and head for the Parks and that will take up your whole week easily if you do the quicky tour.

 

Everyone that comes to Texas thinks its just a "hop, skip and a jump" to anywhere around the State. This State is HUGE! Take my advise as well as the others above and narrow down your travel plan. I would also try and fly into somewhere like Midland/Odessa or even El Paso To save time.

 

Jim.

[dane_skye]

Jeff-

 

Yes, fall can be a better time to see Texas. Actually the "best" times are March and November for Big Bend and late October early November for Guadalupe mountains (fall colors). Having said that you can alo have a great trip in the "5th season" of August and September which is the rainy season in the desert. Big afternoon thunderheads and T-stoms bring the bulk of the rain then. There is often a second wave of wildflowers too. The rivers are also at their best for rafting then. Yes it is hot but the rain helps cool the place. Also the storms can be photographic and bring awesome light.

 

Follow this link to BBNP be sure to check the photo page!

 

http://www.nps.gov/bibe/home.htm

 

And this has some great Guadalupe stuff

 

http://www.rozylowicz.com/retirement/guadalupe/guadalupe.html

 

Whenever you get to Texas, have a great trip!!!

[glenn_kroeger]

All of the above answers are good (well, except perhaps the truck conversation?).

 

I like Palo Duro Canyon, but the drive from there to Big Bend is a full day effort.

 

I think the best advice is to fly to El Paso. Even if you are already booked into DFW, you could fly Southwest to El Paso and probably pay for it with 2 day savings in rental car fees. From El Paso, you can hit Davis Mountains, Big Bend, Big Bend State Ranch (west of the park) and Guadalupe Mountains, as well as White Sands, Franklin Mountains (in El Paso) and the Sacramento Mountains and Carlsbad areas of New Mexico. These form a ring around El Paso and would give you far more bang for car mileage.

 

I live in San Antonio, and by June, the hill country flowers will be long gone, so unless you want to photography missions other than the Alamo, I would skip San Antonio.

[skip_layman]

When traveling from Lubbock to Corpus Christi I was reminded of a saying about traveling in Texas: "The sun is ris, the sun is set, and here we is in Texas yet!"