Nikon FE shutter repair suggestion

[Polyphase]

On the topic of a Nikon FE. With mine the shutter only cycles in the M90 position. In all the others it does not completely cycle. The battery indicator lights and light meter does not work. I’m thinking it’s time to send it in for repair. Does anyone have any suggestions about who I could send it to?

[c_watson1]

Totally dependent on your location. Might be easier to replace it.

[Greg M]

M90 is the mechanical (non-battery) backup so something is gone amiss with the electronics which, today, could be a non-repair unless you find a shop with new old-stock parts or parts-bodies they keep for repairing other units that still have whatever piece is not working on yours that still is on a donor body.

Midwest Camera Repair possibly, but it'll all depend on what it is that's not working.

If it were me, a nice condition and working FM would be the logical move/replacement.

[ShunCheung]

I bought my FE way back in 1978, the same year it was introduced, and I still own it. At this point it is probably much easier to replace (with a used one, perhaps an FM as Greg suggests) than repair.

[rodeo_joe1]

Get an F801s (N8008s). Mine still has an absolutely accurate shutter, better metering and viewfinder than an FE/FM, and no disintegrating light-trap foam to worry about. Some would say it's an ugly camera, but younger than an FE and very reliable. And cheap because of its lack of 'street cred'. Probably much cheaper than any repair cost. 

Who's to say a replacement wouldn't develop, or come with other issues? Or a repaired camera develop a new fault?

Old cameras wear out and go wrong. Fact! They can rapidly become a hobby in themselves just to keep them running. As were some film cameras even back when they were current... Kowa, Pentacon, to name just two, plus almost anything with a leaf-shutter in it. 

[Niels - NHSN]

The economy of having it repaired is likely questionable. If you can find a working replacement, then it may be the way to go.
If you find a sample that works now, the likelihood that it will work for a good while is probably high. It is not like they all implodes at the same time 😉.

The usability of the FE is much better than the FM. Going for an FM would be a downgrade IMO.

The F801s that @rodeo_joe1 suggests is a different beast all together, but certainly an option where you get a lot of camera for very little money. It is an AF camera but it also works very well with your Ai lenses.

 

Edited December 7, 2022 by NHSN

[bob_dean]

I recently sent my FE into ACR, which is in Texas. He did a great job on it.  He repairs mainly FE's, FE2's FM2's.  

Check him out.  Abilene Camera Repair.

[glen_h]

Just to be sure, what you say sounds like what happens when the battery is low.

Or, I suspect, bad battery contacts.

For the FM, and I believe FE, the battery test is that it works.

(If the lights come on in the FM, then the battery is good.)

A few years ago.  (March 2020.)  I was out with an FE2 and on the 36th shot.

The shutter just stopped working.  Seemed a good time to rewind and process

the roll, but after that, I realized that it is just a low battery.

[daniel_johnson6]

 

On 12/10/2022 at 4:33 AM, glen_h said:

Just to be sure, what you say sounds like what happens when the battery is low.

 

Yes, the exact behavior the OP is describing is caused by a dead battery. It might be worth trying another fresh battery just to see. 

Edited December 19, 2022 by daniel_johnson6

[glen_h]

On 12/7/2022 at 5:39 AM, NHSN said:

 

(snip)😉

The usability of the FE is much better than the FM. Going for an FM would be a downgrade IMO.

(snip)

 

The FM does have one advantage, in that it still works, at all shutter speeds, even without a battery.

(Though how well they work now, after so many years, is a different question.)

 

There are a few other choices, such as FE2, FM2, FT3, or later electronic models.

There are also F, F2, F3, and such, some of which aren't all that expensive now.

(The F usual works, the metering finder, not so much.)

[rodeo_joe1]

On 12/10/2022 at 10:33 AM, glen_h said:

For the FM, and I believe FE, the battery test is that it works.

The FE has a little red LED and battery-test switch built into the rear of the top-plate, just to the left of the viewfinder. A low battery causes the LED not to light, or light very dimly. Any light at all from the battery-check LED (usually) means there's enough to operate the shutter and meter. 

However, I suspect that the battery test circuit is connected separately from the light meter and shutter connections. They're both routed through the leverwind standoff switch in the base of the camera. So it could be a lack of electrical contact and nothing to do with the shutter. 

Whatever, a pro repairer would surely quickly diagnose the issue. If it's a dirty standoff switch it's about a 15 minute job... or less.