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Jerry, experimentation will answer all your questions. If you are asking about exposure, it depends on the brand of IR film as they all have different sensitivities to IR. If you are using a #25 red filter you are removing most of the visible light, so your exposure depends on the brand of film and the amount of IR present. With natural light, the amount of IR depends on the time of day, elevation, and weather, As a starting point, if you are using Kodak HIE, which is very popular as a portrait film, put on your #25, set the ISO of your camera to 200-400 (I might use 320 in this situation), and shoot. If you bracket by +/-1 stop you will get something you like.

 

I might suggest, among others, the book "Infrared Portrait Photography, Techniques and Images in Black and White" by Richard Beitzel, Amherst Media, Inc.

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There are people here with a lot more IR experience than me. Maybe one of them will have better answers for you.<p>

 

<i>"1. What are favourite brands to use other than the Kodak?"</i><p>

 

I don't do enough with IR film to have another favorite. When I need IR film, I grab Kodak. I like it for the lack of an anti-halation backing.<p>

 

<i>"2. Tom how would you process that film with your starting suggestions?"</i><p>

 

Funny you should ask me that now. I have been using ID-11 stock, 8 1/2 minutes at 20 degrees C, 3 inversions every minute. But just yesterday I decided to try Perceptol to see if it could reduce the grain a little.<p>

 

Here is a general resource: <a href="http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM

">http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM

</a>

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just finished doing IR work for my independent study for advanced art. I shot MACOPHOT 820nm film in the 120 size in my Rollieflex Automat using a homemade IR filter made from cut down sheet of Lee #87 filter material in my rollie filter holder. I found that I had to shoot at 1/2 a second @ f/8 in sunlight for my one properly dense negative. My first roll had one good frame, the rest were thin or clear. EXPERIMENT!!! YOU WILL NOT GET A PERFECT FIRST ROLL!!! Bracket and record your shooting data for the first roll, and find what works for you. I will upload my IR work when I get back from break and get my adv. art portfolio back after break. Also, read up on it, the film speed really drops when you use the appropriate opaque IR filter.<br>

<br>

I also found that the psuedo IR film, ilford SFX 200, is a nice film for portraits. Skin impercetions do not show, and it gives a nice look. I used a wratten #25 filter on my Rollieflex, and it shot at a usable ISO of around 50ASA.<br>

<br>

I recomend the MACOPHOT film, and it is the only true IR film availible in 120 size, and it is great once you learn how it works for you. Also, remember that IR film focuses diffrently than normal film, so use the IR shift marks on the lense, or if you do not have them, shoot @ f/8 or smaller to compensate. If you have any questions, e-mail me.

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P.S. I deleloped my MACOPHOT film in 1 part XTOL with 2parts water for 14 minutes. I often forgot to pre-rinse it, but it did not affect the images with that long developing. ALSO, DO NOT REUSE YOUR CHEMICALS AFTER DEVELOPING IR FILM FOR NON IR FILM. Peace,

~Oliver Rush

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