Film Camera Week for July 24

[Tony Evans]

A few more with the ME Super and the Pentax 135/2.5 on FP4+ in Pyrop HD.

 

SOLD OUT. (50mm/1.7)

 

ANTIQUES ET AL.

 

My favourite shop. Lots of old cameras here.

 

EVERYTHING OLD.

 

RAVINE PARK BRIDGE

Edited July 26, 2020 by Tony Evans

[chuck_foreman1]

Well as I said last time; I've been busy shooting. I'm on safer ground this time...more suited to the "Modern" Classics. I am using two cameras that the through the kind generosity of others have been given to me. Many here have said this a great forum and the FXD I use here is a gift a CC member made to me. The Olympus OM10 was given by a dear colleague. She thought it was "beyond help". Many months later she gave me the 50mm 1.8 Zuicko, but in my impatience to test the camera after getting it to work, I bought the Zuiko 28mm 3.5 being used here. I also used the 28mm 2.8 ML lens with the FXD. So, the battle of the 28mms! BTW both had yellow filters. I will note which camera/lens. The film is Agfa APX 100 in D76 1:1 . For the most part these are the straight scan.

 

 

 

 

 

Rheinscape Hospital Promenade - Zuiko

 

 

 

New Med Building Hospital - Zuiko

 

 

 

 

Modern Low-Level Office Bldg - Zuiko

 

 

 

 

Some?? Govt records Bldg? - Yash ML

 

 

 

Rheinterasse (Events Hall) - Yash ML

 

 

 

View from Forum - Yash ML

[bradleycloven]

Tacoma People. I have Model Releases from each person for use in this forum and elsewhere.

 

Details: Crown Graphic, Caltar 215mm f/6.3, F/11 x 1/30th, FP4+, D76, Epson V800.

 

1. Scott / Happy

 

 

2. Marsha / Suspicious

 

 

3. Marsha / Furious

 

[bradleycloven]

4. DaShawana / Ice Water Shower

 

[bradleycloven]

Some from a Nikon FE with a 35-70mm Nikkor f/3.3-4.5 lens. The film was lford FP4 Plus developed in Pyrocat HD.

 

Hall

 

[ATTACH=full]1350335[/ATTACH]

 

Rotation

 

[ATTACH=full]1350337[/ATTACH]

 

Elements #5

 

[ATTACH=full]1350338[/ATTACH]

 

Winter on Kansas Street

 

[ATTACH=full]1350339[/ATTACH]

 

Elements

 

[ATTACH=full]1350340[/ATTACH]

 

Lift

 

[ATTACH=full]1350341[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey, Rick. I'm going to try Pyrocat HD. I know nothing about it. If you have ever written up your current development regimen and can point me to it, I would appreciate it.

 

For example, whether to start with powder or glycol for a low-volume guy like me ... follow-on stopper and fixer, etc. Any advice would be appreciated before I assemble an Adorama order. Thanks!

[Mike Gammill]

Some shots from Ilford SFX 200. I posted one over in 365 that was taken with an R72 filter. Here are a few with yellow and red filters.

park with Minolta XE and 28mm Celtic, red #29

same gear but with K2 filter

Court Street (West Point) XE with 24mm f 2.8 Sigma, deep yellow filter (#15)

And one with no filter

tank, XE with 28mm Celtic

While SFX 200 is an interesting film I don't think I got optimum results. I may try another roll at some time, but it is too expensive to use for general picture taking,

[Ricochetrider]

Since I posted my other photos from visit to Onancock Virginia. in this thread, I'll finish out with the final shots from the area.

All images are from the Hasselblad 500cm, with 80mm Planar lens, on Kodak Ektar 100 film

 

 

 

 

[m42dave]

Ricochetrider--keep up the good work. Have enjoyed the Ektar shots and your scans are high quality.

[James G. Dainis]

It seems funny to see an "antique" plate on that Chevy. Maybe I am the antique.

 

Great photo anyway.

[richard_]

a couple of years ago (501cm 80cfe, portra400)

[Mike Gammill]

Like the Chevy Impala or Caprice- hard to tell which one it is. That full size car from 1977 to 1988 or so was very successful even though many (include corporate cousins from Olds, Pontiac, and Buick) had switched to front wheel drive. My dad had a 77 Caprice wagon with the 350 cid with four barrel carb. It would fly- too bad Chevy paired it with the fragile turbohydromatic 200. Transmission failed but was replaced under warranty.

[Ricochetrider]

Ricochetrider--keep up the good work. Have enjoyed the Ektar shots and your scans are high quality.

 

Thanks so much, Dave. Will do my best, sir!

The scans are courtesy of Richard photo lab in Valencia, CA. I've used a number of labs around the country but these folks seem to consistently get most everything right.

I'll have to review what all Iv posted here lately, but pretty sure there's stuff I haven't posted yet form the latest batch of scans, and I have 5 more rolls ready to send in- so should have some new stuff to share early next week?

[Ricochetrider]

It seems funny to see an "antique" plate on that Chevy.

Great photo anyway.

 

I know right? I guess it's 25 years for "antique", web that's what it is here inPennsylvania anyway, I still can't help but think of "antique" cars as being like a model A or some such tho.

Thanks for the compliment tho! Really appreciate it.

[m42dave]

The scans are courtesy of Richard photo lab in Valencia, CA. I've used a number of labs around the country but these folks seem to consistently get most everything right.

 

Good to know--I'll keep them in mind next time I shoot some 6x6, as my budget Epson scanner can't handle medium format transparencies. And it looks like the get the Ektar colors right.

[rick_drawbridge]

bradleycloven said:

Hey, Rick. I'm going to try Pyrocat HD. I know nothing about it. If you have ever written up your current development regimen and can point me to it, I would appreciate it.

 

Brad, I'm using the Photographers Formulary dry powder mix for Pyrocat HD. I've not tried mixing with glycol, the only advantages being an apparent longevity of the unmixed stock solutions. However, as the shelf like is claimed to be almost indefinite in the standard distilled water mix, I've not been tempted to try this. I see there are smaller mixes available, some in glycol solution, on Ebay, but I have no knowledge regarding them.

 

The Photographers Formulary website is down for maintenance but the instruction sheet and some discussion is available here as a PDF.

 

Formulary Pyrocat HD Powder Film Developer | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

 

Regarding development: After pre-soaking for 2 minutes I use the 1+1+100 solution at 75oF, with gentle agitation for the first 30 seconds, and two gentle inversions at the end of each minute thereafter. Using the procedure outlined above, I give the Kentmere 100/Ilford FP4 Plus 8 minutes development, and 12 minutes for 400 ISO films. This could be a starting point. I keep washes and fix at a consistent temperature, around the 75oF mark.

 

After fixing with a non-hardening fixer (in my case Ilford Hypam) I re-introduce the spent developer for another 2 minutes with occasional agitation, no intermediate wash required. There's a theory this increases the stain level, though I've no proof that it does, only a suspicion! I then wash the film in the usual way.

 

Google Pyrocat HD and you'll find masses of information, much of it contradictory, but the above routine seems to work for me. Regarding exposure, I reduce the box speed of 400 IS0 film by 50%, and that of 100 ISO films by 25%

[bradleycloven]

bradleycloven said:

 

 

Wow, Rick, Thanks! I missed your post earlier, and I finally caught it today.

 

I'm going to put this into Brad-Speak so that I can be sure I understood you correctly. If you see any misinterpretations, I would appreciate corrections.

 

1. Water Soak: 2 minutes.

2. Development Process:

2.1 Ratio of 1:1:100 of A : B : Distilled Water

2.2 Temperature of developer 75 degrees Fahrenheit for all liquids (this is considerably warmer than I'm used to seeing, but I love your results, so I'm going for it)

2.3 Initial Agitation: gentle agitation for the first 30 seconds

2.4 Continuing Agitation: two gentle inversions at the end of each minute thereafter

2.5 Total Elapsed Development Time: 8 Minutes (ASA 100) or 12 Minutes (ASA 400).

3. Stop Bath: 2 Changes of Distilled Water. (You didn't mention your process, but this is the only bit of agreement out there about how to handle Pyrocat Stop Bath, so I think I'm safe on this one, unless you countermand).

4. Fix: Ilford Hypam. Instructions from Ilford include:

4.1 Hypam Strength: 1:4. Stir thoroughly.

4.2 Fix Time: 3 Minutes.

4.3 Reuse Question: Usually, I'm a "One And Done" kinda guy. But it seems normal for people to re-use Fixer. I can't be sure of excellent storage conditions, and I would absolutely hate to lose an image due to a processing error like spent fixer. Is it reasonable to use fresh fixer each time? Or, if I manage my storage conditions pretty well, how many re-uses on 4x5 film can I assume before any degradation might occur?

5. Wash (Per Ilford Hypam Instructions) "After fixing, fill the spiral tank with water at the same temperature, +/-5ºC (9ºF), as the processing solutions and invert it five times. Drain the water away and refill. Invert the tank ten times. Once more drain the water away and refill. Finally invert the tank twenty times and drain the water away"

6. Development V2.0: Reintroduce spent developer, intermittent agitation for 2 minutes.

7. Final Wash: "Wash in the Usual Way". Uh oh! Here's MY "usual way", which I suspect is total overkill. Please let me know what your "usual way" is so that I don't continue with an ineffective or excessive method.

7.1 Ilford WashAid: 1.5 oz : 28.5 oz Distilled Water. Continuous agitation for 1 minute. Empty. Refill with Distilled Water, agitate and dump, twice (still some foamy soapy bubbles to clear out). Continue to 7.2 when soapiness is defeated.

7.2 Kodak PhotoFlo: A couple of drops : 30 oz Distilled Water. Continuous agitation for 1 minute. Empty. Refill with Distilled Water, agitate and dump, twice Continue until soapiness is defeated.

8. Set to dry in a warm dry limited dust location (as well as I can do in my 110 year old house ...)

 

Thanks a million, Rick! Trying to get a good step-wise instruction set with products, ratios, timing, etc. is quite difficult. I think I can pull this off, now. Especially, I can order product with confidence.

[bradleycloven]

 

P.S. - I think I understand that you rate FP4+ at ASA 100. Great. I can work with that.

[rick_drawbridge]

bradleycloven said:

I'm going to put this into Brad-Speak...

 

Well spoken, Brad! I comment, thusly.

 

A) Distilled water is required only for the mixing of the development chemicals. Clean tap water is quite adequate for the rest of the process, including dilution of the Hypam. I use a 4 litre beaker of hot water as a water bath to heat developer and fix. Bring the developer up to temperature and introduce to tank, place the fix in it's container in the water bath while development proceeds, and as soon as the fix is up to temperature, cool the water bath with the addition of cold water for wash purposes.

 

B) No, I don't use a stop bath, but fill the tank with water at around 75o and give five vigorous inversions. The temperature of washes and even the temperature of the fix is not critical; in extreme ambient temperature conditions there was a danger of reticulation of the emulsion if it was subjected to sudden and extreme changes of temperature, but I usually judge the temperature of the wash water with my fingers.

 

C) Hypam has a good capacity. I mix it in 1 litre quantities and allow 10x 24-shot 35mm films (or equivalent film area) before discarding. As noted above, I bring it up to temperature in the water bath. The effects of re-introducing the spent developer after fixing is debatable, but I just do it as a matter of course.

 

D) Your final wash procedures certainly sound adequate, though I reiterate that distilled water is really overkill. I don't use a wash aid; I fill the tank with the warmish wash water after pouring off the spent developer, and give 10 vigorous inversions. (Some photographers repeat this procedure 3 times and consider it adequate washing, or use the Ilford recommendations you refer to). I pour the water off, fill the tank again with the warmed wash water, introduce a hose from the tap with water running at a steady trickle and wash for 10 minutes, then give it a good frothing-up in Photo-Flo.

 

E) After the Photo-Flo process I hang the film and very carefully and gently wipe it down, sandwiched between two layers of quality sponge cloth. I've done this for years and only very rarely have I managed to scratch a film, and the procedure pays off by producing squeaky-clean film that requires very little in the way of subsequent dusting or spotting.

 

Overall, developing a film is a pretty simple procedure, and consistency of one's procedures is the key to predictable results. The process is often inflated to the heights of some arcane religion in some internet forums, but generations of photographers have managed the process in the bathroom with minimal equipment, or stress! Remember, too, that temperature and agitation tend to control contrast, and time controls density, so these three factors should remain constant.

[Mike Gammill]

I have a few more frames from the roll of Ilford SFX 200 that I posted some from last week.

First Christian Church in West Point, Sigma 24mm with deep yellow filter

Ross Barnett Reservoir (same day as Kentmere shots on SRT 101) also with Sigma 24mm

edge of park, 28mm f 2.8 MD Celtic, dark red filter

The 28mm Celtic, btw, was a Christmas gift in 1978. Still works great.

[Mike Gammill]

I meant to post on new thread. My bad.