Kodak HIE infrared film and EI & development time tests?

[ramiro_aceves]

Hello friends.

 

A friend of mine and I have just bought our first roll of kodak HIE

infrared film and before using it I need to ask you some questions

(expensive film....:-) ). I am using a Jessops red (R2) filter with

8.0 exposure factor (3 stops). My friend is using a opaque filter, I

do not know the filter type and exposure factor but I will know

tomorrow when I speak to him....

 

Can I we do the standard EI and development time tests or I miss

something?. I had planned measuring a white card in the sunlight,

apply the exposure factor and do the traditional Zone I and Zone VIII

tests. Can I do it, or I should forget it and take some real pictures

in sunshine days and adjust EI and development time acording to the

results?

 

Thanks.

[dave_mueller]

HIE is one of those films that you'll get a different answer for everyone you ask. Your meter is barely sensitive to IR, so the numbers won't mean anything unless you use a roll to calibrate it. I only shoot in full sunshine, with an opaque Wratten 87 filter. 1/8" at F32 or equivalent. Bracket by 1/2 or 1 stop either side. XTOL 1:1, 20C for about 10 minutes. The red filter will allow more light to hit the film, so maybe 1/30" or 1/60". If you're going to shoot a lot if IR, there are some good resources: Laurie White's book, and the IR websites.

 

For starters:

http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mainpage.htm

[ian_beales]

I have not used Kodak HIE yet but was recently at a brief seminar on printing techniques in Calgary when the discussion drifted to how Brian Henson, the presenter, had exposed his infrared work.

 

Brian used a number 25 filter and exposed at 1/125 sec at f11 for direct sunlight, opened 1 stop when hazy but bright enough to see a distinct shadow of his foot when he lifted his foot off the ground, and opened 2 stops when he could not see a distinct shadow of his foot.

 

A couple of other tips he offered were to "always" load and unload the camera in complete darkness, not to worry about keeping the film cold, and include a lot of foliage in the picture as reference otherwise the effect of infrared is lost. I believe he developed the film according to the Kodak recommendations for the contrast that he wanted.

 

His infrared work that he displayed? Pretty amazing.

 

Brian, my apologies if I have misstated anything you said.

[ian_beales]

An example of Brian Henson's IR work can be found at

http://www.westlandsart.com/photography.html

[stephen hazelton]

Based on rather limited experience, the 1/125 @ f/11 with red filter is a reasonable exposure. Even with bracketing +/- 2 stops, I have come up with some dark shadows that were hard to hold detail in. I plan to try cutting back on development next time.

 

I'd say if this is your first roll, forget the metering, use the 1/125 @ f/11 for your red filter, and bracket if you don't feel lucky.

[wieslaw1]

Ramiro,

 

If you want fine grain in your final prints, and this IR film has a coarse grain size, use Microdol development, 13 minutes or longer at 20C-68F. I shot many hundreds feet of this film. My Contax RTS offers quite accurate measurement of the IR radiation, but you still may need to take at least 2 pictures with different exposures. It is not necessary to use darker IR filters than common red filters. And do not include �a lot of foliage in the picture as reference� as this guy, Brian Henson, suggests. Black skies and white leaves is not what the IR art is all about. Just develop your own IR vision!

[dave_mueller]

"Load and unload in complete darkness" is an absolute must for HIE for 2 reasons:

 

1) The film base acts like a "light pipe" - if any light strikes the edge, it illuminates the entire roll. This can be demonstrated in the darkroom with the developed negative in the enlarger - the edges of the film glow red.

 

2) The felt light trap on the canister is NOT IR proof. I took a finished roll out of the camera in sunlight and fogged it where the slot was, through every layer of film.

[chris_waller]

I use HIE and rate it at 400 ASA with a red (R25) filter. i use an incident

lightmeter setting that at 50 ASA to allow for the 3 stop red filter. I dev in

Rodinal 1:50, 10-12 minutes, 20 C. I don't think it is really relevant to use the

Zone System where IR is concerned. HIE has no anti-halation layer so avoid

over-exposure and don't over-develop or the highlights will be too solid.

[sm. alec]

3) During development, agitate GENTLY, otherwise you'll get surge marks around the sprocket holes.

 

For your first roll, whatever you decide to go with for exposure, I'd still bracket atleast +/- 1 stop. You can refine your exposure on following rolls.

[jim_stewart]

I keep a body (currently an Olympus XA2) dedicated to infra-red. The 87 filter is taped so that it covers the opening in front of the film plane using mylar slide mounting tape. This way I can use the view finder in the normal way. This is important if you use a SLR body. The built in meter is set for EI 32 and the film developed in D76h for 9 minutes.