Beginner Neopan 1600 queries

[tomrov]

Having recently bought my first 1600 speed film (fuji neopan), I

wondered what difference I would notice over (ilford pan) ISO

100/400, my usual film choices, in terms of contrast and graininess.

Is so much contrast lost that hard light is seriously un-contrasty by

comparison?

To maximise this grain what should I do? Should I have bought 3200 to

start with? Ive been told that special paper highlights it and having

read other posts it appears over/underexposing such film can

max/minimise this. However, these posts seem a little complex for my

beginner knowledge and would greatly appreciate any clarification.

Any other noteworthy points/advice would also be gladly accepted.

Thanks, Tom.

[majid]

It's a great, sharp and relatively fine-grained film (in my experience the grain is in the same order as ISO 400 films when developed in Ilfotec DD-X). It is also plenty contrasty, perhaps too much, don't worry about that. I much prefer Neopan 1600 to Delta 3200, the grain on the latter is very objectionable at 8x10, when I have made very good 11x14 enlargements from Neopan 1600.<P>

I have uploaded a few 2900dpi scanned <A HREF="http://www.majid.info/galleries/neopan1600/">samples</A>.<P>

Just shoot normally at EI 1600 at first.

[andy_piper2]

Tom: IMHE Neopan 1600 basically reacts like 400-speed film pushed to 1600 - a lot of built-in contrast, a tendency to start losing shadow detail at anything above EI 640, and relatively fine grain for the speed compared to the "3200" films. The only difference is you get these effects with only 6 minutes of development instead of 16 minutes. (!)

 

It's almost like it has a 'built-in' push - i.e. the film chemistry is such that you get a 'pushed' look without extended development.

 

If you like the 'chalk-and charcoal' look of pushed film (I do) Neopan 1600 is very pretty. If you want a shadow-density speed closer to 1000 - and really strong grain, the "3200" films are technically 'faster'.

[david_walters]

Tom,

 

I expose NP 1600 at both ISO 1600 and ISO 800 depending on the available light situation. At both speeds the results are great...a little contrasty, but I use a diffusion enlarger and can adjust filtration as needed. This is a superb film, as is NP 400. I develop in Xtol 1:1, at 20 degrees C, at 800 for 6.75 minutes, at 1600 for 7.5 minutes. Just like Fazal, I regularly make 11x14 prints that are very pleasing, usually on Ilford FB Warm Tone.

[chris_waller]

I've shot Neopan 1600 which I generally rate at 800 ASA. The grain is quite visible (more so since I dev in Rodinal) but is well-defined and gives good sharpness.

[john_stockdale2]

None of the big three's super speed B+W films are their rated speeds. According to Fuji's pdf's, Neopan1600 is only 2/3 of a stop faster than Neopan400 (for shadow detail at similar contrast). According to Kodak's recommended times for these two films in Xtol, they are the same speed as each other (for the same contrast). If you need maximum speed, Neopan1600 might not be the best choice. You would probably do better with either Delta3200 or the Kodak one. I suggest exposing at around 1000 if you want shadow detail.

[russell_brooks]

I just tested Neopan 1600 in D76 1+1 this weekend. 5 1/2 minutes at 20 degrees with 30 second agitation gave a zone 1 density at an EI of 400 with zone VIII around 1.30. But the grain was fairly tight and it had a very nice look. I might end up using it like this.