Leica IIIa Fast Shutter Speeds

[Richard Williams]

Gus, does this mean the IIIf should ideally be serviced more regularly than a IIIc? And how do both these cameras compare to the pre-war models in terms of reliability and maintaining shutter accuracy? I also wonder what effects the 3rd party flash sync on my IIIa might have on the shutter (externally, it's a rather neatly done socket in the 'self timer position' on the front). Were these done in a standard way or are all bets off once someone starts drilling into a Leica?

[Gus Lazzari]

the IIIf should ideally be serviced more regularly than a IIIc? And how do both these cameras compare to the pre-war models in terms of reliability and maintaining shutter accuracy? I also wonder what effects the 3rd party flash sync on my IIIa"

Maybe not more often, but definitely requires more critical & careful service procedures.

As to "pre-war" reliability, the quality & design are robust enough to do its job. But shutter accuracy is another matter.

With the many modifications produced by the Leica company in their introduction of the Leica IIIc, they tackled high speed tolerance hold & adjustability (Bearings and eccentrics added).

3rd party flash mods certainly didn't do it any better than Leica's solution to the "flash" question. As a result I have a policy of refusing modified LTM units for servicing (Why hassle with someone's bargain attempt at mod'ing for flash useage).

[Troll]

.

Since you know there's problem at higher shutter speeds, I suggest that you always shoot at slower speeds (stop down the lens) until you can afford a real CLA by someone who knows what he's doing.

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[matthew_vortex]

It is done.

Root cause 1: dirty camera (down to the spindles)

Countermeasure 1: Full disassembly of the shutter crate for cleaning

Results: Addressed 2 stop overexposure.

Root cause 2: Missing second curtain ribbon on the tensioned roller. Probably someone broke a curtain ribbon and glued what was left.

Countermeasure 2: 3 layers of masking tape underneath base of curtain tape.

Results: Still a fraction of a stop off. Not using filter factor with a yellow filter puts me about 1/3 underexposed. Regular Sunny f16 w/o a filter leaves me about 2/3 over. Well within film latitude.

I blew it when I got carried away chasing the problems with curtain tension. AGAINST ALL SOUND ADVICE IN ANY REPAIR DOCUMENT OR FORUM I'll admit. Resetting tension after the tape shimming really got me on the right path. After an initial +3 turns on opening tension and +1-3/4 on closing, I added +19 teeth on opening tension and -1 on closing.

Thanks to all for the advice. I'm so glad I did not screw with the curtains. I wish I could have afforded straight to a pro for the CLA, but I didn't give up work hours...I gave up sleep hours. So I can't really "cost my time" to justify a pro CLA. If I could, I might as well have bought an M series.

Finally, I'm thankful I did it. I know this camera very intimately now, and I gained a lot of focal plane shutter knowledge/experience.

Hope this can help someone else.

Best.

 

P.S. Included a pair of images. The open Alley is with the Jupiter 12 from the third to last roll when I was tweaking curtain tensions. The flower is from second to last with the Elmar 90.

 

[matthew_vortex]

Wanted to update the group and admonish fellow diy'ers.

I purchased a Summitar for a song that had essentially no cleaning marks, but some haze and a stiff aperture. I wanted so badly to clean it myself, but I decided to use tax refund money to send it to Youxin Ye for a proper cleaning. The wheels started turning. I had a lens that was renowned for its wide open performance, but a camera running a stop slow. Then I decided to throw the IIIa in the box too.

I'll cut to the chase. He did fantastic work. And he did it fast (<3 weeks). In the forums and via google, there is a mixed bag of information regarding his responsiveness, but he was quick and straightforward via email. I can take backlit pictures with the Summitar and still have contrast. The IIIa is snappier, smoother, and more accurate.

So all you do it yourself'ers: you can buy a screw mount Leica and get it working/usable by yourself following instructions easily available on the web. BUT, if you send it to a professional (I'll personally vouch for Youxin, but the web tells us Don, Gus, Sherry, etc as well), you can likely experience a new level of performance.

As far as lenses, after butchering the body of an Elmar 50/3.5, the pros do these for a bargain. It's worth it.

With 50+ vintage cameras (including Leica M), I can say that this is the best rig I've ever owned. Don't get trapped by the fact that you paid a hundred and something for the camera and a pro CLA is equal or slightly more. The kit, not to mention the access you have when your GAS takes over, proves itself more than worth the sum of the two.

Take pictures. Tinker. But don't expect professional results without leaning on the pros.

Thanks to all who contributed here.