high trigger voltage flash and manual nikon film cameras...

[Matthew Currie]

I suppose it depends on what resources are available, but I've seen a pretty good number of old flashes at reasonable prices, which would be entirely compatible with the the F3. I think my local camera repair shop probably even has an F3-specific one for less than the Wein adapter. A lot of the older flashes, including some pretty nice Vivitars, have very low trigger voltages, and unless the 283 has some quality that is very special, I'd look around a little.

[jonathan_reid]

£15 for a radio trigger.

£25 for a different second hand flash

£50 for a wein sync

Or maybe just resell the vivitar for a small profit and forget about flash altogether.

Decisions, decisions.....

[iris_indigo]

I agree with the OP that if a flash won't work without the safe sync then it's not worth using.

[rodeo_joe1]

I'm really not sure why Vivitar flashes are so popular, let alone still made and sold. No swivel or zoom head, silly plug-in modules for approximate manual control or auto-aperture, iffy synch voltage and lower power than an SB-24, 25 or similar. Vivitars have it all - not!

<p><br>

Having said that Jonathan, that Vivitar will be fine on the F3, honest. There's a lot of disinformation on the internet. That's what you get when there's no overall editor to vet anything, and opinion passes for fact.

<p><br>

It might be a different matter with flashes that connect to the flash TTL contact of the camera, but the Vivitar 283 only has one "fire" contact, so no danger of that.

[jonathan_reid]

I was just pondering whether to try making a voltage reducing circuit board to fit inside, as per the 'instructibles' guidance on the web?

This should be very cheap to make, plus I've carried out quite a few minor repairs on cameras before and am pretty handy with a micro-soldering iron.

That way the voltage would be properly reduced to 5v.

As I've mentioned before, my initial intention was to try to learn fill flash to the point where it lights the scene, but without being obviously a 'flashed' photo.

I also have a d300, which sees little use as I'm much more comfortable with film.

Presumably the gun, if tamed to 5v would be ok to use on the d300 too, and being able to view the results of my efforts immediately would make the learning process easier.

I know you can probably do all of this via modern cameras very easily, but I want to learn to do it myself rather than relying on a computer to do it all for me.

[iris_indigo]

t

It easier to build something that function like the safesync. Putting a circuit inside the flash isn't that easy I don't think.

[jose_angel]

I think have finally found the origin of this misinformation(?), that directly comes from Nikon`s literature. It is mentioned on the F3 user manual:

 

Caution:

1) For flash photography, it is recommended that you use a Nikon dedicated electronic flash unit which operates with a low-voltaqe current. Use of any other flash which operates af high voltages may damage the camera's circuitry Any damage caused by such use is not covered by the Nikon Warranty.

This warning is included in the "Controls under detail" chapter, "Accessory shoe". Notice that the F3 was the first F with TTL automatic flash exposure control, and with an electronically controlled shutter. Although it clearly refers to the F3`s hot shoe, I understand some could extend it to any kind of flash use on the F3.

 

Another information that comes directly from Nikon F3 published literature:

"The shutter speed control, the heart of the exposure control mechanism, was based on the digital circuits which provided the control on the basis of the constant normal frequency of quartz (crystal oscillator). The accuracy of the shutter speeds in the low range in particular was increased considerably." (Nikon imaging)

 

I understand people after reading this assume that the "high voltage" warning make sense. Fear is served.

But check another one, again directly from Nikon`s literature, referring specifically to the F3:

 

"By the way, since the Nikon F, the camera's X-contact had been overworked. With the F3, the X-contact is fixed by only one screw, and can easily be replaced.

Although the use of a Nikon Speedlight does not damage the X-contact, damage can be caused by certain professional-use flash units that operate at high voltages." (Nikon imaging)

Another point to take into account is the standardization of the Speedlights around the 5 volts range.

The specific damage list is not related by Nikon first hand, but initially published from some reputable experts of the F3 times. Magazines, books, etc. It includes all kind of reasons, some of them make me doubt about the reality of this damage... As Rodeo explained, the oxidation issue could be somewhat exaggerated. I have no opinion here, no clue on this, I belong to another department...

As mentioned above, many users (some very reputable ones), say that they have never experienced issues using third party flash heads. But most of the times are unespecific references. They also don`t specify how long they used their setups.

 

F3 old users know that the TTL adapter for the original F3`s hot shoe standard adapter appeared too late in time... it may also explain something.

 

 

Edited February 17, 2017 by jose_angel

[jose_angel]

I`m sorry, after posting the format turned to a disaster, at least as it appears on my computer. Hope it is readable... Edited February 17, 2017 by jose_angel

[jonathan_reid]

Nope, I think its all there.

Thanks for hunting this out. It just demostrates that a little information gets misunderstood, repeated with alterations several times over and eventually a new 'truth' is created.

Presumably there weren't any problems with cooked cameras when these flash units were originally made, or else Vivitar would have stopped making them.

They certainly wouldn't have gained the reputation they have anyway.

This reminds me of a whispering game we used to play at school when I was a kid.

Each kid would pass on a message to the kid sitting next to them and we would compare the first message with the end message 30 or so times later.

It was never the same.

[jonathan_reid]

Just curious...

Anyone else here use Flickr?

[jose_angel]

What a mess. I tried to fix the format but it doesn`t work.

Is there a way to -at least- keep paragraphs and lines as it appear before posting?

---

Edit: Funny, now it works in this post (?!?!). Hope the system will be fixed.

Edited February 17, 2017 by jose_angel

[CvhKaar]

I'm really not sure why Vivitar flashes are so popular, let alone still made and sold.

 

That's because it is so easy to convert them into tasers i think .. :D (same ugly smile..) ..

[jonathan_reid]

Not everyone wants a dedicated flashgun.

I have cameras from a number of manufacturers, and it can be handy to have one unit that fits all.

At least that was my initial intention.

I also seldom buy new equipment (i.e. almost never).

[craig_shearman1]

I have used my Vivitar 283/285 units on my F2 and FM bodies for more than 30 years with no problems whatsoever. both the cameras and the flash units just keep going and going and going. Can't speak to the F3 but if it has a mechanical switch as Rodeo says it should be no problem.

[jonathan_reid]

I'm so pleased that someone with direct experience has made a comment.

I'll use the flash with my old fm.

Thank you.

[BeBu Lamar]

But if you must use an old flash, then $100 is a lot cheaper than most new cameras. Damage can be cumulative, not just an immediate kill, BTW. Otherwise, consider just NOT using old flashes just because you have one...... I like to try old gear out, sometimes, and I got my Wein Safe Sync for considerably under list price on eBay. By the way, where, exactly, are you finding new flashes for less than 50 pounds???

 

It's not old flash. The Vivitar 283 is about as old as the Nikon F3. Back then I never heard of high trigger voltage because people assumed that all flashes had high trigger voltage. I would not hesitate to use the 283 on the F3 although to do that the OP must buy an hot shoe adapter unless the OP has the F3P.