TF-4 and HP5+

[andrew_hull]

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with HP5+ and TF-4.

Photoformulary saysit works with the Tmax films, but I assume it

would also work for the classic emulsions too.

[j._raabe]

TF-4 fixer works fine with all films. I use it whenever i use PMK, or TFX-2, which would be most of the time. 10 minute fixing time works for me.

 

I use their archival rapid fix w/ hardener for paper. For got the name of that one, but it's good.

[mark houtzager]

I use TF-4 5 min at 68F, no hardener, with HP5+ and PMK. Works fine.

 

Mark

[andrew_hull]

Does one need to be developing in PMK to use tf-4? I develop in Xtol and DDX.

[bernhard]

I use TF-4 with Xtol and Rodinal on TX, 100TMX and occasionally FP4+ and HP5+, no problems here.

[david_goldfarb]

One doesn't need to be using pyro to use TF-4, but one should use an alkaline fixer like TF-4 with pyro to minimize reduction of the stain, which can happen in an acid fixer (though some use acid fixers with PMK without problems).

 

TF-4 in my experience works fine with anything, but with some of the East European films that use a blue-green anti-halation dye, it is best to do a pre-soak before development to remove the dye, because it doesn't seem to fix and wash out in the normal sequence. The magenta dye in T-Max films is removed with a 6-min fix in TF-4 and about a 10-20 minute wash. Conventional films are fixed in 3-4 minutes (and that's just to be on the safe side--clearing time is often 45 sec.).

[andrew_hull]

Last question, I swear...

What is the catch? I can do without stop bath all together and it works for films and prints. Does it exhaust extremely fast? I am trying to lower my overall cost per print and this stuff seems too good to be true. Any thoughts...

[conrad_hoffman]

The catch? We've used traditional fixers for many decades and know what to expect. In the grand scheme of things, TF-4 is a new product. Regardless, I trust the chemistry behind using an akaline processing chain and have been very happy with the results. The stock solution is a strange mix that tends to settle out- you have to shake it well before diluting it for use. It also has a bit of an ammonia odor, though not too strong.

[rayfc]

I have not found that it exhausts any faster than traditional film. On the contrary, I have run about 30 sheets of 4x5 through a half gallon and it seems to clear the film quite well. Normal rapid fixer would be just about exhausted now. Last, I don't miss stop bath and traditional fixer fumes.

[david_goldfarb]

It's a very rapid fixer and seems long lasting. Alkaline fixers have been around for a long time, but at the margins, so I agree that the catch is unfamiliarity. Also, the cost seems kind of high for the volume, but it's not enormous in the overall scheme of things, and it does seem long lasting, so I don't know what the cost per print/sheet is. I keep two batches that I reuse--one for prints and one for film--so that the things that come out in the film fixer don't stain my prints, although they are at the same strength.

[rayfc]

David,

 

I too keep my film and print fixers separate for the same reasons you do. After

processing a batch of TMAX, the fixer, as you well know, always looks pink.

When I next reuse the fixer (usually a day or two later), I shake the bottle and

when I pour it out, the pink color is gone. Y'a just gotta wonder where all that

pink goes... :+).

[steve_s.]

I use TF-4 exclusively as my film fixer and have had no problems whatsoever. I use it with FX-2 when I am developing slower films and with XTOL when developing faster films, like HP5+. The instructions from Photographer's Formulary say one batch will do at least 15-20 rolls, so I usually mix a fresh batch after 20 rolls. But I have found that a batch that has done 20 rolls will still clear a film leader in less than two minutes.

 

I see no downsides. I like the all alkaline-neutral process. It lets me use a plain water bath, it's easier all-around.

[photobyalan.com]

I'll agree with all the previous posters about TF-4. I've used it with six or seven different films and have had excellent results. It is quite a bit faster than even rapid fixers. When fresh, it clears all films in about 30 seconds. I fix for about 3 minutes total and never have any problems with the magenta stain on the newer films - whatever is left after fixing just washes out after a couple minutes in running water.

 

Not having to bother with stop bath is a nice bonus.

 

I have also found that it lasts noticeably longer than acid fixers. I can usually process twice as many rolls/sheets for a given volume before it becomes exhausted.