How much to push/pull roughly 20 year old 1000 ASA 3M branded slide film?

[robert_fein1]

As the subject implies...

 

I've gotten some older 3M branded slide film and I'd like

to know what the best speed to shoot it at would be.

 

I will be getting it done in E6 and not Cross Processing.

[paul_k1664875007]

<p>Depends what effect you're after<br /> To begin with, please note that even when the film was 'fresh' (as in 'not yet past expiration date') it already had a substantial grain, much coarser then eg Ektachrome 400, and substantial colorshift/unsaturated colors<br /> I worked a lot with its artificial light sibling, the 3M 640T, and had a lot of fun with that grain. David Hamilton, the well known/infamous '70's photographer of young girls reportedly use the 1000 ISO variation a lot (which accounts for the grain and 'subtle' colors.</p>

<p>Push processing in E-6 will increase the grain and lower the contrast even more, while push processing in C41 will, even if it will give a higher contrast, also come with a major color shift towards Yellow (as in CMYK) with a hgh probability of a more yellow (n the hight lights) and green (in the shadows) image<br /> So if you're after a 'normal' looking. finely grain, saturated color final image you'll probably be in for a big disappointment.</p>

<p>Here's a shot from a series I took in the mid 80's using the 1000ISO daylight version at its normal ISO value (1000 ISO)<br /> (bigger copy with more/better visible grain here http://www.pbase.com/paul_k/image/61045639/large)</p><div></div>

[robert_fein1]

Thanks for your response and in depth knowledge but

my question was not answered as to what ISO I should

expose the film at and what to develop at.

[john_shriver]

<p>You're between a rock and a hard place.<br>

Slide film hates overexposure, goes transparent in the highlights.<br>

But you probably have several stops of base fog, so the shadows will be dull grey with no details. (Plus some color shift!)<br>

Use a low-contrast lens.<br>

Bracket overexposure by half or one-stop intervals for at least two stops. No point trying underexposure.</p>

[paul_k1664875007]

<p><em>Thanks for your response and in depth knowledge but my question was not answered as to what ISO I should expose the film at and what to develop at.</em></p>

<p>Considering your film is 20 years old, most likely vastly past expiration date, probably not kept under refrigerated conditions, the emulsion is next to certainly going to be way 'off' and no prediction can be made how it will turn out no matter if under, over or exposed correctly, nor if developed normally, pushed or pulled.<br>

Undeveloped film does not have eternal life, the emulsion will degenerate in the course of time, especially 20 years.</p>

<p>It for all practical purposes will be a matter of trial and error, either by exposing/shooting a few images on a small part of your film (if you only have one roll), developing that to then determine how to continue with the rest.<br>

Or, if you have more rolls at your disposal, take a series of bracketed shots, and see how those work out with different variations in the development so you can then decide how to shoot the rest</p>

 

[c_watson1]

<p>You're kidding, right? Buy fresh Velvia or Provia. Why waste the chemistry and $ on what's likely to be both literally and figuratively a crap shoot? Support what's left of the reversal film industry.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Since color layers do not age the same, if you really want to try this film, I'd start with box speed and then bracket up to 1 stop under to 1 stop over. Correct color shifts in post processing.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>For old color film to be useful, you need enough that what you learn from the first roll or two allows you to do better with later rolls. </p>

<p>Negative films, especially C41 films, have a lot of exposure latitude. That allows increasing exposure (lower ISO) to get above the age fog, for reasonable use. Reversal films don't have enough latitude, in most use, to do that.</p>

<p>Mostly, I would say not to use it, but if you do, do it close to box speed for most uses. For unusually low contrast scenes, increase the expose, maybe up to one half to one stop. </p>

<p>I have used old TMZ (T Max 3200) and gotten expected poor results.</p>

<p>From experience, Tri-X works to about 25 years, VP about 35 or 40 years, and Panatomic-X about 50 to 60 years. Those assume normal room temperature storage. (Mostly below about 75F.) </p>

<p>I would use 20 year old low speed reversal film that was stored below about 50F, and maybe medium speed.</p>

<p>Note that processing costs are generally independent of the results. Some may not mount them if there is no image, and charge $1 less. </p>

<p>You could increase the exposure, and develop in C41 chemistry. But I suspect that your film is too old for even that. But C41 costs less, so you risk less.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>Just wondering, is it EI 1000 in ordinary E6? Some films require an extended development, pretty much the push processing of 1 or 2 stops of E6. I suspect that the suggested EI is much lower in ordinary E6, maybe only 250 or so. In that case, exposing it at EI 250 and processing it as appropriate would be a better choice. </p>

<p>I really enjoy using old black and white film, and color film of lower ISO rating that has been kept cold, but try to avoid higher ISO and film that hasn't been kept cold.</p>

<p>I have much old color film in the refrigerator and freezer that I plan to use some day. </p>