Help with Nikon F3

[juan_manuel_llobera]

<p>Hello,<br /><br />I am new to the forum. I have recently purchased a Nikon F3. I've been looking to buy one for years. <br>

I have shot 2 rolls of film (A Color Lucky Super 200 and a Tri-x) to check if the camera worked properly, etc.<br /><br />They came out with a strange white shadow. At first i thought it could be a scan problem but i see the white marks are also on the negatives. I dont know if this is a light leak problem or not, because some frames came without it.</p>

<p>Maybe someone could help figuring out what is going on. Below some examples of the results i got. </p>

<p>https://flic.kr/s/aHskL5tHbw<br>

<br /><br />Thank you in advance,<br /><br />Juan</p>

<p> </p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>That looks like a light leak. Its from bad light seals around the back, light entering the eye piece during exposure, or a defective shutter.<br>

Check all seals. If they are soft and spring back from touch they're good. If they stay compressed they are getting weak or if they are sticky they need to be replaced, easy to do.<br>

If the light is to your side to behind you then it may be entering the eye piece and reflecting onto the film through the pentaprism. Hold the camera in a way that your hand(s) cast a shadow onto the eye piece.<br>

Remove the lens, lock the mirror up, and open the back. <br>

Take the camera into a dark room or wait until dark in a room with the lights off and curtain/shades closed.<br>

Turn on a small but bright flashlight and point it into the lens opening.<br>

Look carefully at the shutter from the camera back. The light leak may appear as a very dim yellowish spot.<br>

Slowly cock the shutter by operating the film advance lever while continuing to monitor the shutter.<br>

The shutter is titanium and travels horizontally. There are two curtains, one that covers the image opening when cocked, one that covers the image opening when the shutter is released. They form a slit that travels across the frame to expose the film. The width of the slit depends on the speed selected.<br>

<br />There should be no light getting past the shutter except when it is released after being cocked. B and speeds longer than 1/4 second should leave the image plane full open at least momentarily.</p>

[juan_manuel_llobera]

<p>Thank you!!!!<br />I will try your suggestions.<br /><br />Thanks again for taking the time to answer!</p>

<p> </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>The F3 can be used with a motorized drive. The drive couples through a hole in the base plate, which should have a threaded plug if the back is not in place. The location and shape of the leak suggests this is your problem. The back would have to be noticeably bent to leak this much.</p>

[Didier Lamy]

<p>" I have recently purchased a Nikon F3. I've been looking to buy one for years"<br>

excellent choice..</p>

[juan_manuel_llobera]

<p>I have tried the above suggestions and founded that one of the curtains (the one seen before cocking the shutter) is cracked and light is definitely passing through it<br>

https://s12.postimg.org/qco0c0ril/Full_Size_Render.jpg<br>

I am not sure if that explains the leak as the shape seems to be different, but i guess having a broken curtain cant be right. Also i understand there is no way of fixing a broken curtain since balance will be permanently changed, am i right?</p>

[donbright]

<p>Good for you and the F3! My F3 was my first camera purchase in 1984 and I still have it, still use it, in fact I'm about to load some film in it for a road trip. I have taken care of this camera and have had a CLA done, money well spent. Its always a good thing to know what a camera can do and not do. What I appreciate about the F3 is its initial feel, weight and precision shutter release, winder mechanism smoothness and in my case the HP finder is terrific to use. Because of its simplicity, the picture taking experience can take you to a place in the way one approaches subject matter that will enhance the moment.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>The F3 shutter is a coated titanium foil. It can be replaced but probably not repaired if the curtain is damaged. The F3 is a gem of a camera. At least get an estimate for the repair from an authorized Nikon service agency.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>That crack in the second curtain will definitely fog film anytime the mirror is up.<br>

The only repair shop solution is to replace the shutter curtain.<br>

I normally do not work on 35mm cameras but this is what I would do if I had it in my possession.<br>

The curtain looks bent. Its from something being in the shutter travel path or fat fingers punching it during film loading. I would lock the mirror up, lock the shutter open on B with a locking shutter release, and inspect the curtain guide rails for debris and clean out as needed. Next with the shutter in the released state and mirror locked up I would hold a piece of smooth wood slightly larger than the crease and crack against the curtain from the front and try to press the crease as flat as possible from the back side with a second piece of wood smaller than the crease. The curtain is very delicate so light pressure will be required. Once straightened as best can be achieved I would operate the shutter several times on B observing curtain travel to ensure its smooth and the curtains seal by slowly cocking the shutter.<br>

Now I will dilute some Golden Heavy Body Acrylic Artist paint, #1040 carbon black, 50% (1:1) with water then paint a thin layer on each side of the curtain over the crack with a small fine artist brush and allow the paint to cure fully. Once cured I would check for light leak again and give both sides a thin second coat if necessary to seal the light leak. The paint is flexible when dry and adheres to a wide verity of surfaces. Once dry and light tight I would check the shutter operation again starting with B and work up to the fastest speed operating the shutter 2 or 3 times on each speed then check the curtain again for light leaks and fresh bends..</p>

<p>The other option is to find another body.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

Send the camera back where it came from for a refund.

A damaged shutter is BER for an F3. That's

assuming spares are available at all.

 

Good F3 bodies are fairly plentiful and cheap.

[bebu_lamar]

<p>I agree an F3 with damaged shutter is worth nothing. If you paid anything for it try to get the money back. Repair the F3 would cost more than another good one.</p>

[juan_manuel_llobera]

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>Thank you everybody for your suggestions and feedback!!!<br /><br />I will try to get a refund if i cant i will try Charles suggestion and see if i can fix it.<br /><br />Thanks again, <br /><br /><br /></p>