Extreme cold !

[brian_alworth1]

<p>Just got back from a week's shooting at Bryce Canyon, Utah. Great snow conditions but brutally cold. My sunrise shooting temps ranged from 0 to as low as -15 (F°). What are my chances of properly exposed shots? The camera (P67 MLU) sounded as if it were working normally (I'm now very familiar with the noises it makes). And while the battery light would fade quickly...after about one roll.... the mirror lock-up was still working for 2 or 3 rolls. Used a new lithium battery. But i keep seeing horror stories about blank film, shutter curtains not working, etc. Any thoughts? This was one of the first times I was envious of the guy next to me with a digital camera....getting instant feedback.</p>

[john_narsuitus]

<p>When I know I will be shooting in extremely cold situations, I try to use battery independent cameras.</p>

<p> </div>

[brian_alworth1]

<p>Probably a good idea for next time. Either that or one of those remote battery cables so you can keep a battery pack in your pocket. I actually did have two cameras....but one was an old Pentax 67, and the other was an even older Pentax 6x7! lol My guess is that the first roll or two I shot each morning will be fine...but with more problems as the cameras and batteries cooled down. One thing that may help is that those old P67's are massive heavy cameras, especially with the lenses attached....so take a while to cool down.</p>

[brian_alworth1]

<p>BTW John you must be the other guy still ordering Velvia 100.... :)</p>

[brian_alworth1]

As a quick follow-up i got some of my 120 film back from the lab and the Pentax 67 worked fine. Despite the fact that most shots were taken below zero. I am now a believer in the camera and Varta lithium batteries.

[Silent Street]

A Pentax 67 with MLU will handle the cold, but it is not the best beast for extended, repeated outings in bitter cold because cold-soak can freeze the internal mechanisms, and particularly the mirror solenoid and gears. Condensation can also work its way in and give rise to further problems. There is a separate, hard-to-find external battery connector for the P67 which takes the place of the battery clasp and allows you to store a working battery in your knickers, tethered to the camera by a cord. One could even be fashioned with parts garnered from an electronics store. It's workable, though strife-prone if ye should forget about it and go for a walk... :(

 

The 'horror stories' you speak of are more likely reflective of the advancing age (and even clumsiness of 6x7 / 67 owners) of many 1969-vintage Pentax 6x7 cameras, not so much the 1990-era improved bodies. Lack of use is the biggest killer of these cameras, and the idiosyncracies they have need to be considered — meter coupling chains, TTL prism fitting/removal, focusing screen anomalies ... the list is a big one! e.g. after shooting, leave the shutter speed dial on either X or B; left on any shutter speed will affect accuracy over time. Similarly, the shutter should not remain cocked for an extended time or the shutter mechanism will drift in accuracy. Lots of people address this by winding on just before the next shot.

 

The P67 places a huge amount of friction on the film drawn across the shutter gate and onto the take-up spool. In very cold conditions, the film can become brittle and tear. Wind on slowly and steadily. I've used my Pentax 67 without fuss or fanfare in ghastly outback heat (46°c) and awful cold (for me!) around 3°C (any lower and you will find me in bed, not outside!!).

 

Nothing to be envious of the guy with the digital camera. Does he print to 1 metre across? Or just dump everything on the computer, never to be seen again? o_O

[Two23]

I don't really consider -15F "extreme" cold. I start having trouble with film somewhere around -40: I've had rolls simply snap and break. I use lithuim batteries, and keep two spares in an inner pocket. As for cold affecting exposure, shooting in -30 & -40 temps I haven't seen that. If your shutters are recently cleaned and lubed they could be slow though.

 

Kent in SD

[jose_angel]

... will handle the cold, but it is not the best beast for extended, repeated outings in bitter cold because cold-soak can freeze the internal mechanisms, and particularly the mirror solenoid and gears...

Good point to consider. It could be not the same to spend a weekend at not-that-extreme low temperatures, night and day outdoors (e.g. during a high mountain tour), and a two/three/four hours trip to the extreme cold. It may explain my bad luck with digital camera freezing...

In the other side, as far as I can remember, never had a problem with mechanical ones. Just keep spare warm batteries inside a pocket (I used to keep them with me inside the sleeping bag), and try to keep control of the condensation. I also like to carry with a pocket hand held meter (L208).

Edited February 22, 2017 by jose_angel

[harveysteeves]

Have a friend who used to use a battery dependent RZ67. His solution was to wrap some chemical hand warmers to the bottom of his camera. Just make sure they are wrapped and in contact themselves with the body.