Achromat lens fitted camera with X sync flash

[jean_marc_caimi]

 

<h2> </h2>

<p>Hello, I love the soft charm of the achromat lenses, as those mounted on cheap cameras like the Dacora Digna and the Bilora Bella, for example. But all these cameras were made in the era of bulb flash, therefore with M sync. With an M sync a modern flash fires and shuts off too soon, before the shutter opens completely or at all. So no matter a slow "sync tempo", not even Bulb works (the only workaround is to first fire the shutter in Bulb and then manually trigger the flash. But very dark environment light condition are needed for that trick)<br /> <strong>My question is</strong>: does anybody know of a 6x6 achromat fitted camera which also supports a X sync? Since I love the achromat look AND flash photography (but can't afford to buy bulbs!). <br /> <br />Thanks<br /> Jean-Marc</p>

 

[Jochen_S]

<p>120 or 200mm Rodenstock Imagon on Hasselblad or similar?<br>

In doubt it should be way cheaper to contact an independent repair technician if they could rework the shutter of a camera you have.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

Many earlier shutters were "modded" when

electronic flash was introduced. This was mainly

done on more expensive cameras and lenses with

a compur shutter, but it should be possible on a

simpler shutter. Whether you think it economic to pay

for such a conversion is another matter. It may be cheaper to cannibalise a later camera for its shutter, or transplant an achromat lens into another camera.

[John Seaman]

<p>Don't assume that because a camera was made in the flashbulb era, it has bulb synchronisation. I've got a Bilora Bella DC4 with a Pronto shutter, which clearly has X-synch. I can tell by removing the back, and looking through the lens while operating the shutter to fire the flash, when it can be seen very strongly through the aperture, even at the higher speeds. If you only see it weakly or not at all, yes it's probably bulb synch. Some cameras of course have an X/M switch.</p>

<p>The Bella DC4 has an F/3.5 Rodenstock Trinar lens which may be too sharp for your needs, but most Biloras have an F/8 lens which may be a doublet or meniscus type. Although the lower spec cameras may have different shutters - and by the way I'm not sure exactly what you mean by an "achromat" lens.</p>

[Dustin McAmera]

<p>I assumed the OP meant a 'meniscus achromat', i.e. a cemented doublet as often fitted to box cameras. I would certainly agree that before going to any expense it's worth checking if the shutter you have will synchronise with your electronic flash, even if it's supposed to be for bulb flash.<br>

If not, I can think of three ways to go:<br>

1. If your shutter has synch at all, there must be a pair of contacts which close when the shutter is fired. If you open the shutter up, you might find you can bend the contacts so they are further apart, giving the shutter more time to open before firing the flash. Adjust it until it passes John's look-through-the-lens test.<br>

2. For a lot more money, buy yourself a camera with interchangeable lenses and an X-synched focal-plane shutter, and mount your achromat on a body cap. I guess you might use a Pentacon Six. A bit of care is needed to get the lens at the right distance to focus: maybe you can leave it adjustable.<br>

Now I'm eyeing my Lubitel: that has a supposedly X-synched leaf shutter, and a fairly small-diameter lens. I wouldn't be surprised if you could replace the lens on one of these (it's a coated triplet) with one from a Brownie. You'd have shutter speeds, focusing and flash synch! It seems a shame to damage the camera to fit an inferior lens though; with the Pentacon (or Kiev 60, or a Mamiya 645, or indeed a Hasselblad) you could still use the camera body with its own lenses.<br>

3. Make a circuit to add the extra delay, turning M synch into X synch. Here's a link:<br>

<a href="http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/repairs/flash.delay/flash.delay.html">http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/repairs/flash.delay/flash.delay.html</a><br>

You can judge best whether this is your kind of project: I don't think I would attempt it myself; I know no electronics at all. I do see that the guy seems to have designed this to apply a voltage pulse to trigger the flash, whereas the flashes I have used need only a closure of contacts. </p>