jake_lighthouse Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 I have a number of 35mm cameras but I got a K1000 a few days ago so that I could just grab and go with it. But I have noticed that with the 50mm lens there might be oil on the blades of the aperture, Sometimes the aperture doesn't open after you press the shutter release. I can just replace the lens so I'm not too worried about that, but aside from that when I press the shutter release the mirror seems to react slow going up and sometimes only goes about half way down. It never gets stuck all the way up though. I was going to put some work into this camera like painting some things and replacing the worn leather but if it isn't functioning properly obviously I'd rather not.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen_S Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 <p>Sometimes you can find old school camera repair businesses locally that do decent CLAs for not too much on fully mechanical bodies.<br> Deciding if a K1000 is worth one is a bit tough. - Don't get me wrong; it is a reliable essential 35mm SLR when it is working. Current used prices for it seem overhyped in my eyes and I am just stating: I probably paid less for my used one in 1990 than I'd end paying for a CLA (in most places) now. <br> I am not the watchmaker type who is confident about trying camera repairs at home. Literature about them seems out and maybe doing them is the way to go for you? </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 I have been thinking about that as well, I think it'd only be worth it to fix myself if I could, I'm hoping there is a simple answer. I paI'd $15 for it and it came with the 50mm lens a vivitar 85-205mm and a 500mm both of those have T-2 mounts so adapters could be used with my other cameras. I don't think it'd make much sense for those specific camera to pay so much to repair it. Just MHO. Might just wait for a k100 body to pop up on Craigslist or something if all else fails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 <p>I've bought about 4 K1000s in the last 5 years and never paid more than $25 with a lens. I get them at "antique" stores by talking down the price. They really are ubiquitous, and not worth the $100 they get on the big auction site.</p> <p>The F/2.0 50mm should be around $20 max for a nice copy. If the aperture blades on yours are not snappy (I wouldn't mind "oil" if the blades operate correctly and the glass is clean-ish), then buy another!</p> <p>Nonetheless, they are tanks. I always keep my original one from 1976. So what's the risk of a home-spun CLA? $25 for another body that will probably come with a lens!</p> <p>As you go about your own CLA, you'll have to learn how to clean off all the old foam that turned to goo. Do that first. Lots of rubbing alcohol, bamboo skewers, small screwdrivers paper towels and qtips do it for me.</p> <p>Then, when all the old junk is cleaned out, see how the mirror functions. It may still hang up. Ok. </p> <p>Next, the magic happens: Lighter fluid, baby! Using as little as possible, and probably with an eye-dropper, hit the areas where the hinges might be. They probably have the goo inside the hinges, and you're not going to get directly at them. But the lighter fluid solvent "solves" that issue by infiltrating the smallest nooks and crannies, and washing out the goo. Sometimes, the goo shows up elsewhere in the camera and you can mop it out. Otherwise, it stays in there somewhere less tragic.</p> <p>Try to keep the lighter fluid away from the optics, like the mirror or prism. But otherwise, have a party in there. Heck, I've even accidentally doused mirrors and prisms, and had them come out okay. </p> <p>Indeed, I once completely spilled a jigger (ounce) of lighter fluid into the body of a non-functioning Pentax Spotmatic, the K1000's predecessor. Every single part of the camera was swimming in lighter fluid. I took it outside and shook out the liquid. I mopped up the fluid from every angle I could find. Put it in the sun to dry. Then fired it, and found it worked better than before!</p> <p>Now, this technique may trash your camera forever. If you have a family heirloom, you should definitely have it serviced by a highly trained professional for more than a replacement camera costs.</p> <p>But I've "fixed" about 18 out of 20 cameras I've treated this way. I trashed about two. Lighter fluid is my last resort before I throw out a camera. And it usually works. :-)</p> <p>Others will come along to advance alternate ideas, or refute me. Fair enough. I'm just saying what has worked for me. </p> <p>Once you have a functioning body, you can re-light-seal it, for which there are many tutorials and materials out on the web. I'll let you go find those. The job is reasonably accomplishable if you have patience. It's fun, too. I'm at the point where a complete cleaning and re-foaming takes me about 2 hours to do a great job.</p> <p>Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Seaman Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 <p>To add to what has been said, it's easy to remove the baseplate, and use very light machine oil to sparingly lubricate any pivots, gears, sliders, linkages etc. thus revealed</p> <p>If the camera can't be revived, look for a KM or KX to replace it. Much better cameras, and often cheaper than the K1000 due to its cult status.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 I took the base plate off and noticed it was just slightly dented in and an arm in the mechanism was rubbing against the base plate and had actually worn a groove into it. A got it straitened out and it seems to move better. But I've noticed mine also doesn't have the foam around the front that is normally under the base plate, it's possible that it wore away. Is this some sort of just in case light seal as light can come through the base into the camera? Should I replace it? And also I've noticed that the mirror sticks when you tilt the camera back but not when upside down and not every time when right side up. Seems odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 I have cleaned and very lightly lubricated all the mechanical parts and removed the foam and I have not had any issues since that. But before I did I noticed that sometimes pusing the shutter release it wouldn't release the shutter and had to be pressed again which I thought was odd. But everything functions great now! I even disassembled the lens which I wasn't to worried about as I was going to replace it anyay so if it didn't work it was no problem. I cleaned all the junk out of it and gently removed the oil from the aperture blades and cleaned the lenses (making sure nothing was left behind) and it works smooth and is extremely clear. After all that I think I have a great functioning camera with a clear clean lens. Of course I need to replace the foam still, but that's an other story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Seaman Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 <p>Well done that's great. Now I will send you my K1000 to fix up ;).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 Thanks! Now the true test comes with my srt101 someone was messing with it yesterday (without my knowledge) and the rewind knob was unscrewed and the shafts pushed out. Which in itself isn't as easy to get back in as you'd expect... the best part in the shaft is in the spot for the film roll and the door is shut! But that's a discussion for the Minolta section haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebu_lamar Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 <p>Hi Jake! You think you can clean the viewfinder of my K1000? I think there is a bit of the foam which sit above the focusing screen and below the prism.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 I'm not sure I would risk messing with someone else's camera as clearly I'm still new to messing with them and wouldn't want to damage anyone else's cameras. I imagine that wouldn't be that hard. The hard part would be unscrewing all the small screws in the dials which require a small screwdriver or I've even used a razor blade when I took apart my Yashica J3 which had the same screws. I personally set mine to Bulb when I take off the shutter speed dial and make sure you hold onto it so it doesn't shoot off... then you unscrew the rewind knob making sure the shaft wont fall through and then the film advance lever and I'm guessing the outside of the shutter release unscrews or it might not. I'm not sure as I haven't taken the top off mine. But then once you get that off there will be something holding the prism on and you lift and flip it over gently and with a very soft brush wipe off whatever is in there and then do it all in reverse... I'd have to mess with mine before I'd trust myself with anyone else's though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Light seals have now been replaced. Just need to have the leatherette replaced and maybe have the body painted and it's pretty much a brand new camera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Bebu Lemar, I have done what you are wanting on your camera to my own and yes there is foam around the prism. It also turned to a goey crumbly mess and getting it on the prism is a pain in the butt... I found this video but mine is just slightly different than this one, but it can be easily understood from this video. The foam as mentioned in the video can be removed in need be and doesn't need to be replaced, just watch out for the springs which are tricky and you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Here's that video... forgot to add it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebu_lamar Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 <p>HI Jake! If you don't mind I think I would send you my K1000. If you ruin it you keep it! Of course you don't owe me anything.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 It would seem the parts camera I purchased has the same problem, as I mentioned before easy fix. Here's some image showing through the viewfinder, the foam on the prism and the focusing screen. DON'T SCRATCH THAT SCREEN<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Continued...<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_lighthouse Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Continued... you can see a bit of the foam on the screen which is the culprit.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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