Stay with 5DIII & Crop Sensor or go with two full frame bodies?

[MickSimpson]

<p>I have a 5DIII and a 40D that I take out together so that I have two lenses ready to go without having to perform a lens swap. I will be replacing the 40D and would like appreciate feedback on continuing with the 5DIII and a crop sensor such as the 7DII; or replacing the 40D with a second full frame such as the 6D or new 5D4 when it arrives later this year?<br>

Lenses I own: </p>

<ul>

<li>

<p>EFS 10-22 USM;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 28-135 IS USM;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 24-70 f2.8L II USM;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 24-105 f4L IS USM;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 70-200 f4L IS USM.</p>

</li>

</ul>

<p>Lenses I’m ordering; </p>

<ul>

<li>

<p>EF 16-35 f2.8L II;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 100 f2.8L Macro IS USM;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>EF 50 f4;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>Sigma 150-600 f5-6.3 DG OS HSM Sport;</p>

</li>

<li>

<p>thinking about the EF 70-300 f4-5.6 IS USM</p>

</li>

</ul>

<p> In order of activity I shoot landscape; abandoned properties and equipment such as barns and tractors; cityscape; macro; wildlife; birds; starting real estate<br>

Thanks!<br>

Mick<br /></p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>I will be <strong>replacing</strong> the 40D</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Why? Have you considered buying a new camera and keeping the 40D?</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

[fred_strobel1]

<p>On the 40 D now, do you keep a long telephoto on it to take advantage of the crop or the wider angle? If you keep the wider angle on the 40 D, I would go with full frame. If you keep a telephoto on it, I might stick with a crop sensor. Wildlife and Birds might be better with a telephoto on a crop sensor.</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>I don't really see the need for both a 70-200 f4 IS and the 70-300L. I sold the former when I got the latter. They both serve very similar roles. Not sure I would have both a 24-105 and a 24-70mm either: one or the other.</p>

[User_6667263]

<p>One other thought is to consider a 5Ds or 5Dsr. You can do a 1.5 crop on the 50 megapixel image and the result is a 22 megapixel image. This gives you a high resolution full frame and the reach you would get from a crop sensor in a single body.</p>

[MickSimpson]

<p>Hi guys.<br>

Hi William. I have no plans to keep the 40D. If I stay with a crop sensor body I would go for the 7DII to enjoy the faster burst rate and better sensor. <br>

Fred: I usually keep the EF-S 10-22 on the 40D when I take both cameras out with me. Depending on what I am shooting I will use the other lenses on the 5DIII. On rare occasion I will use the 40D with one of my other lenses.<br>

Great point on the 70-200 vis-à-vis the 70-300 Robin. I was thinking of some inexpensive reach, but make the case quite well as these two lenses are pretty close I terms of reach. Also your point makes even more sense when I consider that I will be adding the Sigma 150-600; why bother with the 70-300!<br>

Bill, your suggestion about the 5Ds/5Dr is interesting and I’ll give that some thought. I do think that I will wait a bit though to see what the 5DiV brings to the table.<br>

Hey an aside here: I’ve always known about the crop sensor factor and effective focal length. I recently saw a video that where the presenter made the point that the argument that you must also apply the crop sensor factor to the aperture. If I apply his argument to my 70-200 f4 he states that the effective result is 105-300 f6. Can anyone confirm? This would be a strong argument against crop sensor in my case.</p>

<p >Thanks!</p>

<p >Mick</p>

[zelph_young]

<p>Two of the same body makes for comfortable use and allows you to concentrate on the image rather than operating the camera.</p>

[james_elwing]

<p>f stop is just f stop, a mathematical relationship between aperture and focal length, crop factor makes no difference</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>I have no plans to keep the 40D. If I stay with a crop sensor body I would go for the 7DII to enjoy the <strong>faster burst rate</strong> and better sensor.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You didn't mention the leverage of the narrower FoV as a reason for buying (staying with) an APS-C Camera, but you alluded to that 'advantage' later.</p>

<p>If you see no advantage in the narrower FoV, and the burst rate is a low priority to you, then I suggest you buy a 6D Series or 5D Series camera. </p>

<p>However, I use the advantage of the narrower FoV of an APS-C camera and since I cut over to digital in 2004/5 I have always had at least one camera of each format (APS-C and 135 Format).</p>

<p>Like you I don't change to another lens in the camera bag that often - but I do <strong>swap</strong> lenses when carrying two lenses, one on each body. This allows for a wide range of effective FoV - as one example a 16 to 35/2.8 and a 70 to 200/2.8, which effectively is a two camera, two lens kit, with an 'equivalent' FoV of 16mm to 320mm all at F/2.8 and only with a small gap around the 56mm to 69mm range: another example a 35/1.4 and 85/1.8 providing 'effective' 35mm, 56mm, 85mm and 136mm all at very fast apertures. <br>

<br>

*</p>

<blockquote>

<p><br />I’ve always known about the crop sensor factor and effective focal length. I recently saw a video that where the presenter made the point that the argument that you must also apply the crop sensor factor to the aperture. If I apply his argument to my <strong>70-200 f4 he states that the <em>effective</em> result is 105-300 f6</strong>. <strong>Can anyone confirm?</strong> This would be a strong argument against crop sensor in my case.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yes. The key word is "<strong>effective</strong>".<br>

Whilst the aperture of he lens remains at F/4, and this aperture will determine the SHUTTER SPEED at an given ISO for any give scene, irrespective of the camera on which the lens is used, what I suspect the commentary was about was the <strong><em>'equivalence'</em></strong> apropos DoF - i.e. for any given SAME FRAMING of the Subject any given lens at any given aperture on an APS-C camera will be "equivalent to" an aperture of about one and one third stops SMALLER in respect of the DoF if the lens were used on a 135 Format (aka "full frame" camera).</p>

<p>This is what I expect the video was comparing - hence you whack the 70 to 200 on you 4D and with the aperture wide open you frame up an Half Shot of person - the DoF will be the same for the same shot and the SAME FRAMING when you plonk that lens on the 5D <strong>and use the lens at F/6.3.</strong><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

BTW The video was probably referencing Nikon gear.<strong><br /></strong><br>

<strong> </strong><br>

WW<strong><br /></strong><br>

</p>

<p> </p>

[dcstep]

<p>I shoot birds and wildlife and use my 7D MkII with my 500/f4, rather than my 5DsR with the same pixel-density and AF system, because I like extra speed that you get by not filling pixels that you'll later just crop away. Also, the view through viewfinder is closer to the end results, for that usage. For everything else, I use my 5DsR.</p>

<p>Given that, I still plan to by a 1D-X MkII because of its superior AF performance with teleconverters attached. Its higher voltage battery gives it a considerable advantage over the 7D2. The trade-off is that I'll need to use the TCs more often because of the much, much lower pixel-density.</p>

[MickSimpson]

<p>Thank you for your responses. I have to weigh what you've given me against my goals - a task made more difficult due to your thoughtful responses and suggestions.<br>

Best regards.<br>

Mick </p>