What kit do you carry for what purposes?

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Steve -- hadn't heard of that vest, will have to look into it. Gave my mountain bike to my grown son, but hung onto favorite road bikes. Used to take my digital elph on bike rides, but that died. Could be handy. Thanks!</p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Edward -- I don't think anyone thought you were touting Sony.<br>

Most of my opportunistic shots around home are of wildlife. I keep the 24-120 on one camera and now the 80-400 on the other, and that pretty much covers things. Anything that requires a wider lens than 24 isn't usually moving very fast. Thanks again.</p>

[rossb]

<p>I have been carrying a Nikon FG with a 50mm lens. However yesterday my son gave me a Yashica MG-1 vintage type rangefinder. I am going to carry that one for at least one roll of Tri-X and then after I develop it I will decide if I want to load a second roll. Most likely I will be using it as I see nothing about the camera that would not be real nice. It has a 45mm f2.8 fixed lens. I think I might explore camera's that are older and without a light meter for a while as it's kind of fun to fiddle around with the old stuff. </p>

 

[clive_murray_white]

<p>Threads like this are always suck-ins, my photography falls into 3 distinct categories, business, pleasure (a very narrow fine art landscape interest) and holiday. Of these "holiday" has always been the most problematic, even though I know in advance that taking photos, most usually, of Australian coastal towns and their inhabitants isn't something that interests me much I'm often tempted to load the vehicle up with tons of gear. I have become far more disciplined in recent years and all I take D800, with 24-85 + Fuji X100 (gets used most - fits in my pocket). All that said, I think I should probably use holidays to have a rest from photography; my wife has a natural aptitude with her phone and clearly enjoys it.</p>

<p>For my landscape interest, which is centered on a couple of small areas of forest/bush within 20kms of my home, I have found it far more productive to put one prime lens (in the 50 - 85 range) on the camera and take no others and give it a real work out to see if it can reveal the things I'm trying to expose.</p>

<p> </p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Ross, I appreciate the siren call of the old film cameras, have and use several. If you are going using old cameras without an exposure meter you might want to check out this site. He has recreated something we sometimes used a long time ago. http://www.caffnib.co.uk/expose.html</p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Clive -- though I love the 24-120, in many ways the 24-85 is a perfect travel zoom. Small, light and unobtrusive. My pocket camera died a year ago, so far haven't replaced it. It was often useful. Thanks for your input!</p>

 

[rossb]

<blockquote>

<p>Ross, I appreciate the siren call of the old film cameras, have and use several. If you are going using old cameras without an exposure meter you might want to check out this site.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks for the link. Interesting cardboard exposure wheel. </p>

[studio460]

<p>I choose gear on a fairly shoot-specific basis, though I do have some standard set-ups:</p>

<p>• Portraits/headshots: Nikon D800E + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS (razor-sharp--it's my go-to portrait lens)<br /> • Event set-up 1: Nikon D3s x2 + Sigma 35mm f/1.4 + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS<br /> • Event set-up 2: Nikon D3s x2 + AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4.0G + AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G VR I</p>

<p>I usually sling one body over each shoulder using the Nikon factory straps, but thread the strap-ends just on the left lug, so that the body hangs "sideways" (see below). This is how I've always carried my bodies as far as I can remember. If I take more than two lenses, I'll stow the additional lens into a belt-worn ThinkTank lens pouch. A pack of Rosco lens fluid and tissue is always stashed in the ThinkTank pouch's Velcro pocket.</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/nikonstrap-1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>That set-up keeps me pretty mobile without a lot of extraneous gear. If I need more gear, I'll pack everything into aluminum hard cases and bring a rolling cart. When I want to travel light (and photography isn't the primary reason for travel), I've been most fond of taking my Nikon Df and two lightweight Nikkor primes:</p>

<p>• Nikon Df + AF-S Nikkor 28mm f/1.8G + AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G:</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/nikondftravelkit-2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>The only protection I take for the Df is a Gariz half-case, and the unmounted lens goes in a ThinkTank lens pouch. When on vacation, and I don't want to worry too much about caring for/worrying about expensive gear, I take two consumer DX bodies (without cases), and pretty much shoot 90% of the trip using an ultra-wide. Having two extreme focal lengths seems to work out well for my personal vacation photography (I never seem to mind the large millimeter gap):</p>

<p>• Nikon D3300 + Sigma 10-20mm<br /> • Nikon D3200 + AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm VR</p>

<p>For white-balancing, I use an 8" x 10" gray card at home (I also have a fancy X-Rite ColorChecker, but haven't started using it yet). On vacation, I bring a small "WhiBal" gray card with its uber-convenient retracting lanyard attached. I like it because it's waterproof, and has color-all-the-way-through, so it's both unaffected by scratches and easily cleaned:</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/whibal700.jpg" alt="" /></p>

[johne37179]

<p>There was a time when I carried everything I had when I went on location. I carried at least three Nikon bodies, two Hasseblads, probably ten lenses for the Nikons, four for the Hasselblads, a couple hundred rolls of film, two tripods, filters, shutter releases, etc. <br>

I plan much better today. Cameras are more reliable. I will only take the gear necessary to capture the shots I have planned for. This means a maximum of two lenses on one body. I haven't had a camera failure in years. I shoot only for myself these days and don't travel with an entourage of an assistant, an art director, maybe the customer, etc.<br>

On some shoots I may plan the shots for weeks in advance as I did with a trip to the Grand Canyon two years ago. For shots like the ones yesterday the planning may only involve a couple of hours. I check on light conditions, weather, conflicting events, etc. Heavy planning avoids heavy lifting of lots of gear. At least it does for me.</p>

[john_narsuitus]

<blockquote>

<p>"What kit do you carry for what purposes?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>When I must shoot quietly without flash in theaters, at concerts, or in recording studios, I carry the following:</p>

<p>Fujinon 50-140mm f/2.8 with Arca Swiss Quick Release Plate. I recently replaced the plastic, pedal, bayonet lens hood with a metal, round, screw-mount Nikon HN-28 lens hood and a 72mm to 77mm step-up-ring.</p>

<p>23mm f/1.4 Fujinon with vented metal lens hood on Fuji X-Pro1 body</p>

<p>16mm f/1.4 Fujinon with metal 72mm Nikon HN-9 lens hood and 67mm to 72mm step-up-ring</p>

<p>12mm f/2 Rokinon with issued plastic, pedal, bayonet lens hood that I will eventually replace with a metal, round, screw-mount lens hood.</p>

<p>56mm f/1.2 Fujinon on Fuji X-Pro1 body. Eventually replaced the large, plastic, bayonet lens hood with a smaller, metal, screw-mount lens hood.</p>

<p>Extra Batteries (3)</p>

<p>Extra SD Memory Cards (6)</p>

<p>White Balance Tool</p>

<p>Monopod or Tripod (not shown in photo)</p>

<p>Leather Case (35.5cm width; 15cm depth; 20.5cm height)</p>

<p>

<div></div>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Ralph, thanks! Nice photos as well. I like your single lug attachment method, I will have to try it when I want to go with two cameras and no bag. I have each body fitted with a BlackRapid wrist strap. Currently thinking of making a belt case, but small, just for filters, battery, sdhc card and lens tissue. </p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>EJ, haven't we all gone through the stage of carrying "everything"! Every so often when we are going on a car trip, I have to resist putting the big Pelikan case full of lenses in the back. Though I bring two bodies with a lens mounted on each, and one or two other lenses, I tend to walk around with one camera lens combo -- zoom in the daytime, fast 50 at night. Thanks for sharing!</p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>John, nice pictures and gear, you really have it down to a science! I like your leather case, reminds me of my old Nikon FB 11.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>There's absolutely nothing wrong with a sheet of plain white office copier paper for a custom WB setting. It folds down to shirt-pocket size, weighs next to nothing and is easily and very cheaply replaced when dirty, crumpled or misplaced - unlike any fancy WB gizmo, which <em>will</em> get dirty, fade, yellow, break, lose itself etc.</p>

<p>The same goes for grey cards that might not even be neutral grey to start with. A sheet of white copier paper (doubled up to prevent any transparency effect) is also about the closest thing to a 100% reflective Lambertian surface you'll easily get your hands on, and therefore doubles as a reflective exposure reference. Just subtract 2.5 stops from the copier paper reading and you've got your standard 18% reflectance reference. Quibbles about absolute reflectivity and optical-brighteners are groundless, since even if the paper varies from its assumed 100% reflectance by +/- 5%, that's well within photographic tolerances. Whereas a grey card would only have to be out by just under +/- 1% to give the same error.</p>

<p>Sorry Expodisc. Did I lose you some well-overpriced sales there? Aaah, diddums!</p>

[Brad Cloven]

<p>I travel Europe lightly. I was once on a bike in the Loire for a week, and my Nikon FE with a 50mm 1.8 and a 24mm 2.8 were great. I never once thought "I wish I had a telephoto." </p>

<p>Since then, I've tested all my 50mm against one another at f/4.0, the aperture at which I want to ensure great performance. I have 1.4 AIS, 1.4 AF, 1.8 AI, 1.8 AIS, 1.8 Series E, 2.0 AI. The stunner: The 50mm f/2.0 was DRASTICALLY sharper than all other lenses. So, I'll use that one whenever I can. </p>

<p>I hope to go on the "Trip of a Lifetime" to Mongolia next year. I half expect to ruin everything I take in sandstorms. But the photo opportunity is so huge, I'll add another FE body and a 105 f/2.5. Two FEs, 24mm 2.8 / 50mm 2.0 / 105mm 2.5. That ought to do it.</p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Brad -- sounds like a plan. It all comes down to your vision. You have picked two of my favorite lenses with the 24 and 105. As to the 50s, you are probably more discriminating -- I use either 55 1.2 or 50 1.4 with the film cameras.<br>

As regards the dust, the first thing that came to mind is a small dry bag of the type used for kayaking. if it will keep water out...<br>

Have a wonderful time!</p>

[clive_murray_white]

<p>this thread keeps taking me back to a very unpleasant experience, in 2008 I had to do a presentation in a government office in our capital city, an 8 hour drive from where I live. Parked the 4x4 in the carpark near the offices and when I come out from our presentation I see that a rear side window has been smashed and all my photo stuff had been stolen.</p>

<p>A passer-by said it happens all the time, the thieves are watching virtually every vehicle with different state plates.</p>

<p>Its made me very wary of how much stuff I take anywhere now and how securely it is stored.</p>

[chip_chipowski]

<p>Ralph - you always post such nice gear photos! I have to ask about the lens hood on the 85 1.8G - very evocative of the Canon red ring....</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Copy paper is distinctly yellow, or has UV brightening dies. Using paper for white balance may be good enough, and it's certainly inexpensive and available. I use a 6"x 8" polyethylene card I got with a Porta-Brace video camera bag. It's accurate and nearly indestructible.</p>

<p>White balance is not all that important with RAW files, because they can be non-destructively changed in processing. In Lightroom, they can be grouped and changed en masse. Video is less forgiving. Color controls are medieval compared to Lightroom, and corrections place a huge demand on the computer.</p>

<p>Sorry to hear about a bad experience in Washington, DC. I guess not all of the town's scoundrels are elected or appointed. Don't be seen putting things in your trunk either - assume you're being watched. Trunks can be opened faster with a screwdriver than with a key, sometimes just with your hands.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<blockquote>

<p>"Copy paper is distinctly yellow..."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Then you're not paying an extra 25 - 50 cents for a ream of the good stuff! And yellow compared to what? Chalk, linen, poster paint, whitewash, expanded polystyrene, newspaper, toilet roll, a wedding dress, cake icing, clouds...... what? I've photographed copier paper in the same light as most of the above items, and it's as neutral or more so than any object we commonly think of as "white". What more could you want of a white reference? If you set a custom balance using something that's not commonly found in the real world, then the real-life "white" parts of the subject won't really look white, will they?</p>

<p>I think you'll find that there's no standard for White, since the only clue the eye gets for what's "white" is generally the brightest part of a scene, which can be any shade of cream, pale blue or other pastel colour. Copier paper is fine. Waste your money on something else if you like.</p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>RJ -- Tangential, I have corrected with a white wedding dress, and it worked quite well. <br>

This thread is about selecting and carrying gear for various purposes. <br>

Thanks for dropping in.</p>

[ShunCheung]

<blockquote>

<p>this thread keeps taking me back to a very unpleasant experience, in 2008 I had to do a presentation in a government office in our capital city, an 8 hour drive from where I live.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>As far as I know, Clive lives in Victoria, Australia. His capital city would be Canberra, which unfortunately shares some of the same problems as Washington DC as well as many other cities, large and small all over the world.<br>

But that is another topic.</p>

[clive_murray_white]

<p>Shun: your details are correct</p>

[bryce_l.]

<p>Over the years have whittled my choice of lenses down to three. Specifically a much loved old Nikkor 28-105 f3.5 (recently overhauled for the third time) and two more or less recent purchases: the 70-200 f4.0 and the relatively cheap 50mm f1.8. Now with this glass I photograph only one thing, trains. Railway trains, 90 percent locomotives but virtually all my photography is trains, trains and more trains. My current DSLR is a Nikon D750, back to Nikon Canada for the now third time in nine months. The camera has been a lemon. Suspect too because my gear is bounced around a bit it suffers. Have played with this digital format for too long, without satisfying personal results. My Nikon F100 has once again been pressed into service, again loaded with Fuji E-6. Railway photographers use slide film, they show their images to others in groups. Anything else is a waste.<br>

Have had many second and third thoughts about what i haul around for the photographic bit. One surprising thing i have discovered. A cheap low-priced Canon point and shoot with AA batteries for power satisifies all my so-called other photos such as objects or sometimes, yes too photographing humanoids if they are friendly.<br>

At seventy years of age, maybe my attitude and world should change. Have been through many withdrawal symptoms over the year with my photography; find most of the time am unable to endure critical praise, if forthcoming. OTOH have discovered that little Canon noted above, tends to result for me the happiest images. Weird eh?</p>

<p> </p>

[Sandy Vongries]

<p>Bryce -- sorry yours has been a lemon -- have had good luck with my D 750 for the last half year, though it was bought used. As to lenses, old and new, I have a bunch. I do believe there is a role for the small cameras, I got good service out of a digital elph for years till it died.<br>

Key thing is, you are still at it. We are roughly of an age, and it is important to follow our passion whatever the photographic instrument. All the best!</p>