Advice regarding Adox CMS 20

[n_m10]

<p>I'd like to shoot this in Minox format and have some questions for anyone who has used it ..</p>

<p>1. What ISO do you shoot it at?</p>

<p>2. Does it scratch easily, for example when being slit?</p>

<p>3. Do you need to increase developing time with Adotech II because it is Minox format?</p>

<p>Thank you !</p>

[MTC Photography]

<p>I used it only once, shot at ASA 10<br /> You develop Minox film as usual, not related to format<br /> If you want no scratch while slitting, use roller blade slitter , which does not touch film emulsion or backing, instead of knife blade slitter.</p>

<p>The Adox CMS 20 is too slow for me, I prefer Agfa Copex Rapid AHU at ASA 25</p>

[n_m10]

<p>Thanks for the advice. We'll see what happens.</p>

[Minoxit]

<p>I usually set the camera (or meter) at an ASA ranging from 10 to 25. Very smooth tones when shoot inside these figures. If developed properly, it looks somehow to APX 25 (smooth) or to Pan F50 (very good highlights). Good contrast and shadows. Be prepared to <em>work a lot</em> when scanning the negative, tones quite stubborn.</p>

<p>Processing wise, I have tried Atomal 49, ID 11, D76, almost all devs I have. None did the job to my liking, so I gave old Studional a shot. The results were very good. From memory: Studional, 1+15 @ 7 minutes, agitation every minute for 10 secs, thermometer pumping.</p>

<p>No scans to show for the 20 ASA, but you have here some examples of the CHS 50. A bit different, but it's the closest to show at this time.<br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<a href="https://minoxit.com/2014/02/26/adox-chs-50-in-studional/"><strong>ADOX CHS 50</strong></a></p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p><div></div>

[n_m10]

<p>Thanks again.<br>

I bought the special II developer made for it.<br>

I was worried about scratches: I had a roll of Retro 400 I got so scratched (from slitting? loading?) that the film was mostly useless.</p>

[Minoxit]

<p>This Adox does no scratch. Not easily, that is. However, I do not use anymore a "drag-through" cutter; as Martin said, these are creating telegraph lines on the negative like nothing else :-)/</p>

<p>The rotary blades film cutter (see its first public review on my website here:<a href="/bboard/%20https:/minoxit.com/2014/01/19/jimmy-li-a-newcomer-with-a-serious-challenge/"> https://minoxit.com/2014/01/19/jimmy-li-a-newcomer-with-a-serious-challenge/</a> ) is much better suited for cutting 9.2m out of 35mmfilm negative. The way the film goes through the mechanism is not exposing the emulsion or upside of the film to any surface, so scratches are only created by bad handling of the negative strip while rolling into the cassette, in the vast majority of situations this occurs. I would advise towards investing in a proper machine; it will nicely pay in the long run. And while you're at it, check various other Minox information in there.</p>

<p>Re chemicals: my 2 cents was just that, 2 cents worth of an opinion. I sometimes had troubles with matching a certain film negative with its own developer, no matter what the manufacturer said. Adox (for me) is an example. What anyone should do is experiment, experiment, take a rest, and experiment some more. Take notes, go small steps, keep remembering things. Think outside of the proverbial box.</p>

<p>And above all, shoot as much as you can. For a certain time in my Minox early days, quantity made up for quality. After a while, it slows down. Not much, but it does. And things are starting the other way round. Not much, but it does :-)))))))).</p>

<p>Best of luck to you!</p>

[n_m10]

<p>I use a Jimmy Li slitter ;) The blade one, not the roller one, though. I guess I'll just have to be careful.</p>

<p>Thank you again! I'll see if I can get some slitting done this evening.</p>