Need Scanning Help...

[willscarlett]

<p>Incidentally, all the rolls of color that I've scanned with the OpticFilm and SilverFast 8 have come out really well, so I know it is capable of doing a really good job. I'll post an example below</p><div></div>

[willscarlett]

<p>... and one more</p><div></div>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>1. I'm surprised that there is no Negafix setting for Fuji Across as its a current film and current films are usually included.<br>

2. Being there is an issue I suspect the scanner does not like/know how to handle the exposure/processing of the film therefore the workaround is<br>

A. On the Negafix panel slide the exposure slider to indicate +1, make a scan, set it to -1 and make another scan.<br>

Set to what ever side and amount it takes to make a good scan. I vaguely remember some of my B&W requiring an exposure adjustment when they would have printed well at paper black.<br>

B. If workaround A does not produce a satisfactory scan then move the midtone slider to the right, about mid way between its current position and the right edge should be a good starting point until you get a satisfactory scan.<br>

3. Go to Silverfast web site and see if there is an update available for your software. Negafix updates are sometimes offered separate from the main program updates.</p>

<p>Looking at B&H the OptiScan 120 comes with Silverfast Ai Studio which has IT8 calibration built in. If the scanner shipped with an IT8 target put it in the scanner and push the IT8 calibration button and use the resulting profile as the input, If it did not ship with an IT8 target then you will have to purchase one separately.</p>

[stephen_samuel]

<p>The film type should be chosen in the 'negafix' window.<br>

In the Densitometer window, try increasing the 'bits' setting as much as possible. More data per pixel will give you more ability to adjust in lightroom.<br>

In the Histogram page, try shifting the middle '0' setting towards the 'mountain'<br>

and in the 'scan dimensions' page, try setting the Resolution ('Res') higher .. near the end of the green section of the slider.</p>

<p>Hope those suggestions will help.</p>

[willscarlett]

<p>I tired using the calibration target, but it all looks the same. It did come up with a Delta E of 0.6 tho. The best I can get is adjusting the gamma gradation number. It's set by default at 2.2. The b&w images have more tonality, but more contrast, if I lower the number</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Lets back up to the Negafix box. In the vendor box select the brand of film you are using, I believe you said Fuji.<br>

Now what are the options in the film type and ISO boxes?</p>

[Tim_Lookingbill]

<p>I'm assuming the first Epson scan sample was made by your friend who had an Epson scanner and software. Is that right?</p>

<p>If so, it's going to be difficult to match that kind of tonality especially the modeling in the skin texture detail of the subject's forehead because that kind of look can usually be done in LR's PV2012 Highlight vs Whites sliders which applies that type of shoulder tonal roll off from absolute white that brings out that kind of detail only if the scanner captured that level of detail from the film. You just need to tone map the high contrast back out either in post or within the scanner software. And from the myriad of settings you've posted you're going to have a LOT of tweaking to find that tonality.</p>

<p>Have you tried just backing off of contrast in combination with gamma setting adjustments?</p>

<p>But scanner software and even Adobe imaging app sliders don't act on the preview the same. A scanner profile usually provides most of this tonality. I used to get high contrast color negative scans similar to your B&W samples from one hour minilabs that converted to sRGB. I then applied one of my old Agfa Arcus flatbed scanner profiles and got a lot of modeling detail in highlights with a slight sacrifice to contrast and a bit of foggy shadows. Kinda like Log C in cinematography.</p>

[willscarlett]

<p>Charles, the NegaFix box for Fuji has NHG II, NPC, NPH, NPS, NPZ, Press, Pro, ProPlus, Super HG, Super HQ, Superia, and Superia Reala. I did some Google searching - there is no Acros plug in.</p>

<p>You know what else is strange tho? How "bright" the negative scan is seems to be influenced by how I adjust its position in the preview window. You know how when you select the Overview section in Silverfast and each preview window has two arrows under it? As I adjust the position of the image, its exposure changes. Interesting. Anyways, now I'm scanning a roll of Rollei Pan 25, which is definitely not in the NegaFix profiles.</p>

<p>Below is a shot I took using Agfa 25 and scanned with the OpticFilm and Silverfast... this one came out really well. No idea why.</p><div></div>

[willscarlett]

<p>Tim, yes, it was done with an Epson scanner and most likely Epson software. I'll try backing off the contrast in combination with the gamma adjustments, which I lowered from 2.2 to 1.8. As for the first series of images that I posted, I like the detail of my friend's scan, but find the contrast a bit flat. I like my version with the Lightroom adjustments, but would like to get a bit more highlight detail back.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>I would try scanning the Across with Fuji as the vendor, other as the film type and ISO at 100.<br>

In the Auto setting box deselect Auto Frame Insert or select Visual if both cannot be deselected.<br>

Deselecting the Auto IT8 may help also.<br>

The Exposure slider in the Negafix box should go from zero to 3 stops in 1/3 or 1/2 stop increments, + for over exposed, - for under exposed, as you move it left or right. The output should closely match the preview window but the closer to the adjustment limit the greater the difference between the two. The problem may be with the Auto setting box.<br>

The object of a good scan is to get as much detail from the film as possible, post processing software is for making that detail look its best.</p>

<p>The Agfa 25 scan looks much better but may be a bit too bright.</p>