No. 1 Pocket Kodak issues

[andrew_tefft]

<p>I inherited a pretty cool No. 1 Pocket Kodak, and while it's neat to look at, it would be fun to use. But I'm having some trouble and hopefully someone here has some hints.<br>

<br />The first problem is that I can't pull out the bellows. The focus thumbscrew works to extend the bottom tray, but it seems that the little trolley thing is catching on the slide on the left side (as you look at it from the front) and while it will slide back and forth a little, it won't come forward past what seems like where the hinge meets the back of the slide. It's almost like something is misaligned but I can't see what. I've used as much WD-40 as I dared (don't want to get any on the bellows) - is there something spring-loaded in there that I need to get freed up?<br>

I saw on this forum a hint about disengaging the side brackets so the front will open a little further, but my model does not allow for that. Any other hints? Pretty sure none of these models have a latch holding the bellows in a closed position, only to hold it fully extended. <br>

Of course, this may all be pointless because I'm not sure the shutter mechanism is functional. I'm not sure how it's supposed to work but I'm not seeing the shutter open at all (I can see it shift slightly if I look from the back). Starting with the handle fully 'up' (the end at about the 10:00 position) if I push it down, it clicks at about the 9:00 position, but I don't see the shutter open - and then it doesn't spring all the way back up when I let go.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>There are so many variants of the No. 1 Pocket Kodak through the years. So it would be good to post a picture.<br>

However, it sounds like the bellows is stuck together, and won't unfold. That's unfortunately often fatal to the bellows. It's easy to rip them apart when that happens. Maybe some heat (hair dryer) might unstick them?<br>

The simpler shutters are amazingly simple, not hard to open up and clean and lubricate. But first you need the bellows to work.</p>

[John Seaman]

<p>Are there two levers you have to squeeze together to free up the lens standard? Or a button to press? There are lots of variations on these.</p>

<p>The shutter should open and close when you operate the lever.</p>

<p> </p>

[andrew_tefft]

<p>I don't know if this is the exact same model but it looks identical:</p>

<p><a href="/classic-cameras-forum/link%20with%20pics">http://www.ken.lyndrup.dk/Engelsk/Kodak/No%201%20Pocket%20Kodak%20Camera%20E.htm</a></p>

<p>I don't think it's the bellows itself - it really feels like the carrier is catching on the track on the left side. </p>

<p>The only latch appears to be on the right side, and you can see in the second picture where it goes into a groove in the distance scale to hold the bellows open. But it does not engage with anything with the bellows closed. </p>

<p>if I look underneath the carrier I can see two stops that prevent it from being pushed back too far but I can't see behind them. Maybe I need a dentist's mirror :-)</p>

 

[chuck_foreman1]

<p>Well I hope this is not pointless. The shutter like many of this era is auto-reset. My version a 116 1A Pocket (Autograph) seems to fit your description. I added a few pictures. I can confirm your description the thumb screw should move the plate once the bellows have been extended and clicked in place. the spring loaded lever snaps into the cut out on the rail. This need to be pressed to release the bellows back into the camera. I also find this may need to be pressed to release the bellows after the initial first 1/2cm . Thumb and middle finger on round knob and depress spring lever with first finger. I have done it with and without but it does seem to hang there after initially moving forward a bit. Note on the one picture that the infinity position has the sliding plate slightly over the body. I think this is right!</p>

<div></div>

[chuck_foreman1]

1a focus plate

[chuck_foreman1]

focusplate focus screw

[chuck_foreman1]

1A focus screw with moveable plate<div></div>

[chuck_foreman1]

the other side spring lever pointing to focus scale not the focus plate extend a bit beyond<div></div>

[chuck_foreman1]

other side bellow clicked in position

[chuck_foreman1]

inside view right<div></div>

[chuck_foreman1]

back view of front standard clip

[chuck_foreman1]

back of front standard<div></div>

[andrew_tefft]

<p>Aha - progress!</p>

<p>Thanks to your confirmations about how the mechanism works, I had the idea to slide something under the carrier to see if I could feel anything in the way. I found a narrow, rigid, flat piece of plastic slightly thicker than a credit card (actually the handle of an Easter egg coloring dipper!) and slid it underneath This was apparently just thick enough to reduce the friction holding the carrier because I was able to pull it out further. I can see paint scraped off the hinge below so I guess that was rubbing - probably due to some incorrect folding in the past.</p>

<p>At this point I have only pulled out about 3 folds of the bellows. So far they appear to be in good shape. There is now a good amount of force coming from the bellows and I don't want to damage them. I tried using the focusing screw to slowly ease the standard forward a little at a time but I wonder if I should be taking any specific precautions.</p>

[richard_linscott2]

Andrew

 

The bellows are probably dry and stiff from long storage. The bellows are typically a cloth, cardboard and leather (or imitation leather) sandwich. What has worked for me is to dampen the bellows inside and out. I then let them sit for a day or so to re moisturize before extending it out. You don't want to soak it, just a light wiping down with a damp cloth or fine haired brush will do the trick.

[chuck_foreman1]

<p>The hinge BTW only ..ummm hinges when fodling open or close</p>

 

[glen_h]

<p>On one I have, I believe a No. 1, it slides out best with the cover almost, but not quite latched open. <br>

Once it gets over to sliding on the hinged part, then lock it open.</p>

<p>Also, on one I have, I think the same, also the shutter never opens. <br>

It is easy to take apart, instructions easily found on the web.<br>

I believe on mine one part is so worn that it doesn't go far enough to hook the part that opens.<br>

It might be fixable, but buying them for $10 or so is easier.</p>

<p>Best is ones that use 120 film, as it is easier to find. <br>

Though old 116 is fairly easy to find. I even now have a Nikor 116 tank, including the part that gives it the right curvature to load. (That part was lost on my 35mm tank years ago, as I quickly learned not to need it.)</p>

<p> </p>