shawngibson Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>Couldn't find a proper forum to ask this question.</p> <p>When dealing with incredibly small focus adjustments, i.e. with a microscope, I'm having an impossible time making very small adjustments.</p> <p>On a microscope, if I add a clamp to the fine focus knob, and a very long stick, and hold the stick at the far end, will that allow me to create finer adjustments? The scope can handle fine adjustments, but I, as an old human, can't.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>Shawn, I'm an old human too, and I use a microscope fairly regularly for work. </p> <p>I guess the answer to your question would depend on why you're having trouble making small adjustments, but if it's because of failing finger dexterity or tremor, I think you're right. Just securing a ring to the focus knob might help that, or even putting a rubber ring around it to increase its diameter. Having said that, I don't think I've ever seen any microscope user who needed to do that.</p> <p>If you're having difficulty because of eye problems, that's a different matter. I don't know what your photomicrography setup is like, but the standard programs used with Nikon digital photomicroscope cameras (for example) have a focusing aid built into the program, so you just adjust focus until the little bar on the screen is as far to the right as you can get it. I guess it works on contrast or something. Probably the other camera makers have similar software.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>Hi Dave, thanks for your response. The problem is I need to make very, very small adjustments with a 40x objective, in order to capture the entire depth of field. My hands are definitely shaky. Think of a fruit fly on a slide, which has not been compressed with a top glass. At 40x, to catch the entire DoF, that's at least 50 images, if not 150. Most I've done is 150 stacks at 10x, not 40x. Small adjustments at 40x are impossible for me, very haphazard.</p> <p>I need to increase my leverage on a small dial.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerrySiegel Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I assume you know that there are microscope stages that raise and lower, and some that have geared fine motors that will aid your hand. If you need that level of precise management think of getting one. I expect they are costly, hundred of dollars costly, however but better than the long lever... I forget the categorical name off the top of the head for such raising stage, possibly " lab jacks." does that sound right?--another one of the senior moments , I mean that I use 'doohickey' a lot ;my wife knows what I mean :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_de_ley Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>If the clamp can hold tightly enough then it should work. Another solution might be to fit an appropriately sized <a href="http://rctoymemories.com/2014/08/09/16-classic-vintage-rc-tyres/">rubber tyre from a toy car</a> around one of the fine focus adjustment knobs of your microscope. You'd find those in RC toy stores, or instead you could check whether your local hardware/car parts stores happen to sell appropriately sized <a href="http://www.customgasketmfg.com/MoldedRubberProducts/RubberGrommetsBushings">rubber gaskets or bushings</a> that would fit firmly. The toy tyres might be more useful though as they usually come with cartoonish tread patterns (see the example link in the first line of my response) that should simplify the process of taking equal-displacement steps for a focus stacking series.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>My stage raises and lowers, but again, it's a question of precision. I'm new at this, so hopefully it's a knowledge thing, not a need-two-grand-to-be-precise thing.</p> <p>A clamp on the fine focus with a 6" screw and my hand on the head of the screw, that's what I'm hoping here...not precision, per se, just smaller movements.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_de_ley Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>Another idea: If you happen to have basic woodworking tools and skills (or can recruit someone in your family or circle of friends with "wooden thumbs" :) then you could build a simple variation on a <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Wooden-Ratchet-Noise-Maker/">wooden ratchet rattler</a> with fitting dimensions for connecting the rattler's handle/axle to your focus control. Turning the cog wheel would then allow you to click-stop through your intended number/displacement of focus steps. For example, if the cog wheel had 10 teeth then 4 complete turns of the ratchet would give you 40 equal steps of displacement up or down.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Currie Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>I think the ratchet has great virtue, especially if it is more unidirectional with the slopes all on one side of the teeth. One could then, even if shaky hands make great precision difficult, turn until the click occurs, then turn backwards till it stops.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 <p>This is an interesting problem. In my initial response I didn't know you needed this for focus stacking. Here's a few more random thoughts:</p> <p>(i) You might be able to make something suitable, but try not to deface your focus knob too much. The length of your lever will be limited by the height of the fine focus knob above the table. For the Nikon scope in the room beside me, the bottom of the knob is about 50mm above the bench. The knob is always close to the bottom of the scope chassis, for ergonomic reasons. (IOW, you probably don't have room for that six-inch screw.)</p> <p>(ii) The mass of the lever will be limited by how much friction is in the focusing rack. If you use a heavy metal lever, your focus will probably drift, unless you have adjustable friction like in some microscopes.</p> <p>(iii) Making a ring that clamps on, connected to a lightweight lever, should be an easy problem for a machine shop. If you have access to an instrument technician, ask him/her, or failing that, drop <a href="http://www.skgrimes.com/">S. K. Grimes</a> an email. They do beautiful work, and this would be a trivial problem for them. You might be looking at a few hundred for something like this, I think. </p> <p>(iv) If you're looking for a store-bought solution, many companies make motorized units. Google 'microscope focus drive' or something. You're looking at a grand or two there, I think, although I saw one that was 750US. </p> <p>FWIW, the <a href="http://www.nikoninstruments.com/Products/Software/NIS-Elements-Advanced-Research/Compatibility">high-end version of the Nikon photomicrography software</a> also can control motorized movement of your specimen in the x, y, and z axes. The z axis is what we're talking about here. I've never needed to use anything like that. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald_miller5 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Do you have a photo of the configuration and what you are working with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerrySiegel Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I still like a lab jack stage under the object, with a motorized control. Probably an eight hundred dollar item, cost of a medium price lens nowadays..that is what I would go for. Here is why. Each position you focus has to be vertically stable, not slip even a half millimeter or less. I would be concerned for the slippage factor in a vertical lens mount, over time and repetition. I am no way a microscopist (term?) although I had a simple Nikon 20 power stereo field microscope for a while. Lot of fun, focusing was the trick with any object with any vertical depth... Your challenge may be tougher unless you are talking about an instrument of Zeiss professional quality with multiple micrometer gearing . Of course try the above jury rig ideas. If they work, well then they work, how is that for brilliant summary.. ..Sounds like a fun hobby to look at like at ants. (Just watched a special by E.O. Wilson an ento- biologist who thrives on critters.. He showed a Bausch and Lomb rig. Regards. -g- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill C Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 As I recall, your setup cost on the order of $300 US, so I'm guessing that you don't want to spend anywhere near that much to "improve" it. So how about this as a trial option: in a wood block, just a bit larger than the fine-focus knob, drill or bore a hole just large enough to lightly press over the knob. Use a rasp or file, etc., to get the fit right. (If you make it too large, a strip of masking tape on the inside of the hole will help adjust the fit.) Then use hot-melt glue to attach a popsicle stick as the lever. Quick and dirty, and if the general idea works then you can make a more permanent version. If you decide to keep using it as-is, you can add a little class to the operation by dressing appropriately - perhaps a flannel work shirt or cowboy boots; you get the idea, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 <p>Thanks everyone. Somewhere within these advice posts is the answer. As Bill C notes, this is a student grade compound scope. Being a new hobby, I couldn't consider a $3000 product. </p> <p>Having said that, the fine focus is perfectly capable of very minute adjustments. I have a 14mp OMAX camera connected to it, and indeed, I can make very small adjustments. Problem is as stated, the knob is too small for my ADHD fingers.</p> <p>Some radiator rubber hose mounted over the knob (unfixed), a radiator hose clamp from my bike over that, hot glue to a Popsicle stick on the clamp. Might work!</p> <p>I could also accomplish this with Velcro: Velcro snotglue to knob, other side of Velcro attached to inner Velcro...hot gun glue to Popsicle stick.</p> <p>But let me get back to the basics. Here's my crappy Photoshop vision...</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18107432-lg.jpg" alt="" width="953" height="484" /></p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q.g._de_bakker Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Should work, but over what angle is such a contraption free to rotate before it hits the scope? Something that slides on and off over the knob (as Bill suggested above) may be a better way of doing this than something that is clamped on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen_S Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 <p>Its been decades since I used a microscope but reading your problem, I'd say: Go for gears! Pick a suitable overkill solution, i.e. a fairly overdone gear ratio demanding something like 3 turns of the input crank between your shots. Play in the gear shouldn't matter as long as you move it in the same direction not sure what to use for the secondary connection. you could either use a chain attached to a microscope wheel to cope with the toothed wheel attachment not being dead centered or attach a long shaft from gear to a clamp around the microscope focusing knob you aren't using. Since we are talking about low torque being transmitted slowly you have a lot of freedom making your solution. I'd probably go for at least a worm gear pair, eventually more of them or a planetary gear behind them. A good starting point might be educational stuff for kids - Fischer Technik brand comes to my mind. The gears there are lal plastic but should last a while and are easily rigged up. Metal variants might work too but you most likely need a worm gear somewhere. - I have no idea how to make a clutch between gear and focusing shaft but am sure you'll need one.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_stobbs3 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 How about locking the microscope and playing with the stage. Maybe lowering the main stage and putting a second finely adjustable stage on top of it. If the subject is not too heavy, maybe a float on top of a pool of water which you can raise by slowly dripping more water into it to raise the subect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald_miller5 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 <p>One variation on your theme. Start with a small plastic lid to a jar or top of a prescription drug vial. Drill (cut) a hole in center so it will fit snugly. You can wind some electric tape around the knob to make the fit more snug. Glue stick or brass rod across top of cap from the starting at the hole or skew it to bypass hole. This way you can easily put on and remove adapter with little effect. <br /> Also you could get rod brass that will fit snugly over the knob or made snug by crimplng or winding tape on knob. Then either glue this to center hole of lid I described above or sodier/glue brass rod or stick at right angle to rod that fits over knob.</p> <p>Another thought, take a small wooden disc or cylinder and drill appropriate size hole in center so it will fit snugly over knob or make it fit snugly and take it from there. Can even drill hole in side of wood disc and insert a dowel or long screw</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 <p>>> but over what angle is such a contraption free to rotate before it hits the scope?</p> <p>Shouldn't matter, I think? Most of the time I'll need this 'aid' at 10-40x; Probably the most I'm dealing with, with say an unmounted drosophila ( tremendously large Dof) is probably 75 degrees at the most. I've never done a focus stack that was more than my wrist could handle, if that makes sense...</p> <p>For the record, it's not such a problem with the stereo, just the compound; here's a small chordate spine (part of a sardine).</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18107813-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="545" /></p> <p>Shawn</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald_miller5 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Just to adress this last question. If you use my last suggestion with a wooden wheel and drill multiple hole in the rim around the circumference you can get to the approximate focus you want and the in seat the rod for final focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Z Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 <p>Shawn, once you get a lever rigged up you might find that there is some flex in whatever padding, glue, wood, and rod that you used, and that moving the tip of the lever a small amount won't consistently move the stage by the amount you need. Here is another idea: if your Omax camera can automatically take multiple exposures at, say, 2 to 10 fps, you might try shooting that way while at the same time continuously moving the stage through the needed range. The amount of stage movement between shots might be more consistent that way. The scene would have to be bright enough so that the exposures are sufficiently short. Good luck. Let us see the results.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 <p>Thanks everyone. Based on all of these observations, here is my plan:</p> <p>1) Buy a piece of wood and ask the guys at Home Depot to create an inner bore slightly larger than I need. Add a thin bit of rubber from there. From there, I have a tool and die kit, and can add bolts. For example, into the wood, but not the rubber, to lock the wood into the fine-tuning knob. The rubber will prevent me from destroying the knob.</p> <p>2) If that's not enough, glue a stick to the outer ring, one much smaller than in my image.</p> <p>Maybe?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald_miller5 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 <p>Sounds good. An improvement on your fist configurment. More elegant, easier with less slippage. I might still suggest not making the hole too much larger you might get away with a fit that is snug so you do not need set screws and you can always file the hole larger with round file or redrill a little larger if necessary.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erwin_schaefer Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 <p> around your problem like a dog with a porcupine. I got the impression that you want an affordable solution. The sketch, if workable for you, will give you a 6 to 1 reduction in the rotation of the mike’s knob with absolutely no backlash. The most costly component would probably be the manner in which the knob and the drive are married. If the knob is removable it would simplify the design of the adapter that a local machine shop could fabricate. If I knew the dimensions of the shaft I could send you a CAD dwg of the adapter to guide the machinist. If a knob similar to the one in the sketch is not available a 2 or 3 inch gear would really calibrate the rig. <br /> The drive and mounting bracket are on:<br /> <br />https://www.midnightscience.com/catalog5.html</p> <p><img 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