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50mm subject


sanjay_chaudary

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<p>I use mine for everything....nature, architecture, portrait, macros, panoramas. Some people say that it is the universal lens....I prefer a slightly shorter lens, but 50 works just fine for lots of things.</p>
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<p>I generally use it for portraiture. Of course <em>which</em> 50/1.4 lens you have will affect how effective it is in this role, as some have extremely poor performance WO and near. Even a poor one though can be used effectively by f2, which gives an order of magnitude greater subject isolation than a 28-105.</p>

<p>For general purpose shooting though, the zoom is almost <em>always</em> more versatile.</p>

 

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<p>Hi, thanks a lot. I think I will just try it out. I have the canon eos lens and shoot on a film body - so its a full frame. <br>

I have the 100mm usm macro (non IS) from canon. can the 50mm be used for macro and do I need to reverse it? is it worth it considering that I already have a 100mm macro lens?<br>

<br />I will check vickis page. thanks</p>

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<p>I would say mostly, not worth it. Most people seem to favour 100mm for macro. Your 50 should get down to 40mm at least, anyway.<br>

Extension tubes may be the most satisfactory way of getting it to do high magnification if that's what you want, for auto metering and stop-down. I think they usually say a f1.4 is too fast to deliver a really good macro, for which it was not designed.</p>

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<p>I would fool around with it to get some fairly close-ups at full aperture for extreme DOF. The 70-200 David recommends will give you a similar DOF affect at 200, but it's less intimate. Maybe with extreme ISO settings, low light lenses are now dinosaurs/ white elephants. I don't believe it, but maybe it's true.<br>

Otherwise, focusing a lens like that, close, with an extension tube, involves a fair bit of moving the camera in and out from the subject and letting the autofocus take up the slack to achieve sharp focus. </p>

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<p>You are not going to want to waste film shooting WO at macro distances - you'll want to stop it down a LOT. Wide open, the DOF alone will destroy the image, much less the poor IQ. If you were shooting digital it'd be easy to see (and quick and free) - and then to delete, but there's really no point in doing it with film.</p>
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