Graflex Lens Timing/Disassembly

[westphoto]

<p>I have a 103mm Graflex Graftar f/4.5 for a Century Graphic that may or may not have good shutter timing. I've been trying to listen and see if the 1/10 shutter is half of the time of one tick from my mechanical watch (5 ticks a second, for those who don't know). It sounds like it's a tiny bit slow, but I'd love to know if any of you knowledgeable folk have any cool tricks/tips for checking shutter speeds without a slow motion camera. It has speeds from 1/10 to 1/200.<br>

Secondly, I'd love to know if anyone has any literature for/experience with disassembling one of these lenses in case I do need to go in and clean up anything. I've already had the front and rear elements off easily. I see there are two screws on the front face and one in the back. I am mechanically inclined, so I'm comfortable with taking a look at the innards. I just don't want to go opening something and have a spring suddenly fly away.</p>

[charles_stobbs3]

<p>The old fashioned way was to photograph a 78 rpm record turn table (with a record on it or some kind of an index mark) or a 33 or 45 rpm and measure the angle of rotation.</p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<blockquote>

<p>"I just don't want to go opening something and have a spring suddenly fly away" <strong><em>Chris W.</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is called <em>fear of the unknown</em>. <br /> Be bold; coupled to common sense, logic and being "mechanically inclined", you'll<br /> be able to figure out any surprises that pop-up...</p>

[ken_jeanette1]

<p>There is an application I remember on the internet that did shutter timing. I also fount this statement<br>

Wondering whether or not the shutter speeds on your camera are accurate? Instead of taking it to a shop or buying expensive testing equipment, you can use an old television or CRT monitor as a simple shutter speed tester! Camera enthusiast <a title="" href="http://www.flickr.com/people/26262745@N08/" target="_blank">Rick Oleson</a> has <a title="" href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html" target="_blank">an easy to understand diagram</a> showing what you can expect to see from the screen at different shutter speeds. For a more technical explanation and tutorial, check out <a title="" href="http://books.google.com/books?id=ASoDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA106&ots=ICDJgXUqvl&dq=check%20shutter%20speed%20tv%20screen&pg=PA106#v=twopage&q=check%20shutter%20speed%20tv%20screen&f=true" target="_blank">this article</a> that appeared in a 1967 issue of Popular Science.<br>

Check Rick Oleson pages to see what he had to say on the subject</p>

[ken_jeanette1]

<p>I also found this statement on Lomography.com. "Shutter-Speed" is an iPhone-App that allows you to measure the shutter speed of a camera. With this app you can check whether your camera is exposing the film correctly, or if there are any deviations. If there are, then the App tells you how to correct it !</p>

[James G. Dainis]

I once had a nice 58mm f/1.2 lens on which the aperture blades stopped down very slowly when the shutter was fired causing overexposure. I decided to open it up to see if some cleaning and lubricant would help. Soon all these itsy bitsy tiny balls fell out all over the floor to hell and gone. I suppose they were for the aperture click stops. I never did find them all. Checking on line I got some good advice - Before opening the lens set the aperture to f/16 and tape the ring in that position otherwise a lot of itsy bitsy tiny balls will fall out all over the floor to hell and gone.

 

Sometimes it helps to know in advance what you are doing.

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Shutter Speed Tester http://www.photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/0044cW?start=10<br>

http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/<br>

What shutter is that Graftar in, a Graphex?</p>

[westphoto]

<p>Ooo, I very well may make that audio transistor set up. I have all of that stuff already.<br>

And It's the standard lens that came with the Centuries, with a Century shutter.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The Century Graphic was made from 1949 to 1970. The standard lens/shutter combination changed over the years. Graflex Corp. changed the name to their names for their cameras. Graphex-Rapax; Optar-Raptar; Graphic Supermatic-Kodak Supermatic. Prontor SVS and Synchro Compur shutters were used also sometimes with the Graphic name in front of the manufacturers name. The Century shutter is not listed in the shutter guide books, product brochures, and service manuals that are available.<br>

Can you post a picture of your Century shutter? It is most likely a rebadge of another make of shutter. <br>

I doubt it is very complicated and nothing will jump out if you just take the face plate off but a spring might fly out if you try to operate it with the face plate off. I have repaired most of the shutter makes listed in this post, some can be operated with the face plate off, others cannot.</p>

<p>I use the "audio" transistor tester and it is accurate. I use an infared led with a deep red filter over it which allows for standard white light source. Mine is mounted on a piece of foam core with another piece of foam core attached over it that has holes for various size of shutters. </p>

[westphoto]

<p>I'm seeing Synchromatic made by Wollensak for Graflex Inc.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>There is no "synchromatic" shutter made by Wollensak that I'm aware of but many shutters with built in flash sync are called synchromatic. Made for Graflex by Wollensak suggests it is a #1 Graphex.<br>

http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/GraphexShutterService.pdf</p>

<p>The same manual can be purchased on ebay in printed form.<br>

The manual is misprinted. The assembly instructions for the #1 shutter are out of sequence so follow the instructions for a #2 shutter and ignore the steps for parts that are not used in the #1.<br>

Once you are familiar with servicing Wollensak shutters their other models are similar and can be serviced without an service manual. Always take pictures of the shutter as you disassemble it as it will make reassembly easier and clearify diagrams.<br>

Thr main difference between a Rapax and Graphex is the position of the alignment pin for lens board orientation and controls are 90° clockwise on the Graphex as compaired to the Rapax.</p>

<p>http://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=rapax</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>If yours looks like this one http://static.photoprice.ca/product_images/02427.medium.gif its a Graphex/Raphex renamed to confuse the ignorant.</p>

[westphoto]

<p>Yeah I think that's it.</p>

<div></div>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>It is a Wollensak Alphax not a Raptar/Graphex. The Alphax is a simpler shutter but still very durable.<br>

http://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=alphax<br>

Both base all speeds on the delay gearing with 1 second being the full travel and faster speeds partial travel of the delay gearing. 1/100-1/125 is the main cocking spring with no delay, faster speeds are booster spring aided.<br>

The blades operate on pivots and a controller ring. The controller and blades should float with no spring tension applied by any mechanism. This can only be tested when the shutter is disasembled.</p>

<p>http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/century-graphic.html What is your camera's serial number? Is there a 3 character code stamped on the bottom of the rails front cross member and what is it if it does?</p>

[westphoto]

<p>The serial number is 522038<br>

There is a 4 and an L/1 on the rails.</p><div></div>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Your camera was made mid year 1954. The numbers on the rail are production numbers. A date code was added in 1960.</p>

<p>The shutter should operate at 1 second with the cover plate and speed ring removed. There will /may be levers or pins or both that fit into the slots of the speed ring that will go out to the edge of the case when the ring is removed. When reinstalling the speed setting ring those pins and levers have to be back in their slots. Usually aligning the ring and turning it until the pin or lever fits into the correct slot then back to T or B is sufficent othertimes its pull the pin into the slot position then seat the ring. I would not be conserned unless the seeds are off 1/2 stop or more then I would disassemble it, clean all the parts, lube it as its reassembled. Shutter and aperture blades use no oil or grease, extra fine powdered graphite or dry trflon can be used and helps worn shutters. Tips of gear shafts and pivot pins of levers a trace of light weight machine oil, do not use 3 in 1 oil or WD40. Under side of the speed ring at the outer edge mating to the case, the center at the case mating, slots, and top surface mating to cover plate, sliding levers to case contact area, spring ends that slide on a pin or lever, apply a trace of medium weight grease such as white lithium grease. Too much oil or grease acts like glue and impairs shutter operation.<br>

Shutter Speed chart that shows 1/3 and 1/2 stops:<br>

http://www.photographyuncapped.com/articles/photography/iso-shutter-speeds-f-stops/</p>

[westphoto]

<p>Thank you for all the information. I'm hoping/expecting that it's only out just a little bit, and slow leading to slight over-exposure is fine in my eyes. Hopefully I won't be digging into it, but thank you again for all of the resources should I need to.</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

Wow Charles ...very impressed with knowledge of these shutters!