Nikon FM overexposing

[arthur_smith1]

<p>I dont want to overengineer a solution for an otherwise great camera that I paid less than $40 for. But, I did have a few good exposures that I spotted in scanning last night. And they required very little, if any, adjustments to highlights. Sending it in for a CLA would cost more than I paid for it. I have replaced the seals, mirror dampener, light meter batteries, and a few cosmetic things. I am going to keep working the shutter and live with it. </p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Might use the FE2 to compare metering. That meter is usually dead on. </p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>My mistake, you said it overexposed by 1 stop in that case if you shoot negative film either B&W or color isn't a problem at all. </p>

[Uhooru]

<p>I see your point Bela, but what I'm going to say is if you can't figure out how to compensate for whatever the problem is on a consistent basis, assuming its camera related, than the camera is really worth $0. So what is the worth of having properly exposed photographs to you? I don't know how much a CLA or just a meter adjustment is. I imagine it depends.</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>The DOF preview lever was not opened up all the way. Guessing this may have had some impact on proper exposure. </p>

[john_tran14]

<blockquote>

<p> the shots seem to generally be over exposed by a stop.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Since you already know that, it is not a problem at all, for whatever reasons there are. We should not try to solve the problem before the problem is described clearer. But in my experience, the mere fact that you purchased it recently at $40 suggests that the meter is bad and the shutter speeds are not accurate either. I do have a few FM in mint conditions not needed for a long time, but to sell for $40, the answer is "no way". I mean, if someone has been taken good care of his/her beloved FM, he/she would not sell it for $40.</p>

<p>Again, with a little compensation, you can easily get perfect exposure. That would be a lot easier than using an old Leica.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<blockquote>

<p>"The DOF preview lever was not opened up all the way. Guessing this may have had some impact on proper exposure."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Shouldn't have any effect on the actual exposure. The preview lever simply stops the iris down to whatever aperture has been set on the manual lens ring. However, partial operation may result in a slight viewfinder darkening, and hence will affect the meter readings to give overexposure. So it looks like the metering issue might be sorted.</p>

<p>But I thought you'd tested the camera at <em>all</em> apertures Arthur? Setting the lens to maximum aperture would have over-ridden the preview lever and made the meter read correctly.</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>I was hoping to get help on here, not have my purchasing or troubleshooting skills critiqued. This is far from my primary camera, and the good exposures I have taken have already helped the camera more than pay for itself. </p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>An update- I shot another roll over the weekend, and developed using Rodinal and semi-stand developing. Got some beautiful exposures, and the process seems to hold highlights beautifully. So, maybe it was my development. In any event, very happy! Still think the F3 meter might be the best out of the Nikon manual focus bodies.</p>

[john_tran14]

<p>Congratulations! The F3 is a pro body, so there is no wonder it is better than the FM. Personally, among all Nikon film cameras, I like the F4 the most (for performance, not other characteristics like size, beauty, ...). It is not a manual camera by definition, but I turn off AF and slide the mode to M. There I have my perfect manual film camera. Its meter would be better than the F3 (not that I care about or need a meter)</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Ask 50 photographers what the best 35mm camera to use is, and you'll get over 100 responses. I don't think not using a light meter makes someone a better photographer. They are tools, and can be used nicely in the right hands. They are never 100% accurate, but it's always nice to have a guide that can make an accurate recommendation as to what exposure to use for most given situations.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>In ye olden days we'd use color slide film to evaluate the meter, shutter and aperture function. Negative film was so forgiving it wasn't useful for estimating those factors, unless it was a full stop off.</p>

<p>I still use a copy of Fred Parker's Ultimate Exposure Computer charts to evaluate meters when I'm not sure they're quite right. Helps in tricky lighting when some simpler meters are easily fooled by strong backlighting, or light entering the eyepiece (the Olympus OM-1 was very vulnerable to stray light entering the eyepiece).</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Thanks- I have never heard of Fred Parker's Ultimate Exposure Computer charts- will have to look into that. I have been using my iPhone Pocket Light Meter, and Gossen Luna Pro F, and the more I compare now, the FM's meter looks to be within a half stop. Not bad for an almost 40 year old camera. </p>