Canon EOS 350D dial for changing aperture/shutter speed activates shutter

[brett_hodge]

<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>I haven't been able to find anyone else on the internet with this issue. My 350D (old, I know) has an issue where using the wheel to change the shutter speed and aperture also causes the camera to take a photo at least half the time. Makes it impossible to use the manual setting, and super frustrating generally.</p>

<p>Taking it to somebody to have it looked at would cost as much as the camera itself, so was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on what the issue might be or had heard of a similar problem?</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Brett</p>

[danield]

<p>This is the main wheel located on the grip just next to the shutter button?<br>

This might sound obvious, but check that you're not pressing the shutter button at the same time.<br>

Otherwise I had a similar failure with an older EOS camera, it wasn't the same - just that the wheel would not work reliably and needed more turns to "register" a change. It's possible there are some broken contacts, maybe in your case a short that is tripping over the shutter circuit... Tough to fix that one. May be time for a new camera.</p>

[phule]

As Daniel says, that's a tough

fix. As someone who is also still

using a 350D, I know what my

strategy will be: buy a new-to-me

camera.

 

Depending on where you are, the

Canon Refurbished store online

offers good deals many times a

year. If you are in the US you

can call them about their

Customer Loyalty Program where

you can trade in the

malfunctioning 350D for a

discounted refurb.

 

Otherwise take a look for good

deals on the T5i or even the T3i

which is still available.

[Marcus Ian]

<p>I think the problem is probably related to looseness in the top board, or in the main dial switch, allowing movement to translate into closing the incorrect switch.</p>

<p>To reliably fix this, you'll need to disassemble the top cover and replace either the whole top assembly, or at least the sub assembly... I took a quick look on ebay, and I see several auction/BIN for the entire top assembly used for $20-30. Whether it's worth it will depend on how much you need to spend on the labor. </p>

<p> </p>

[brett_hodge]

<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>Thanks very much for your replies, even if they did confirm my worst fears. I ended up buying a second hand 500D, so might pull some of the outer assembly off the 350 and see if a can get it fixed.</p>

<p>Thanks again for your help :)</p>

<p>Brett</p>

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>Hi Brett,</p>

<p>If it were me I would squirt some electrical contact cleaner or some iso-propanol (lens cleaning fluid) into the slot where the wheel protrudes and give the wheel a good spin for a couple of minutes. Remove the battery first to prevent any shorting. The liquid dries after a few minutes so you can replace the battery and test it soon after.</p>

<p>A sticky shutter is quite a common problem on the 350D and the cure for it was to pour a teaspoonful of the same fluid into the battery compartment and pressing the shutter repeatedly whilst the camera was upside down.</p>

[brett_hodge]

Hi Jamie.

 

I've already used some switch

cleaner and lubricant on it,

which I think is the same stuff

you're talking about? It's what

I've used for years to clean

scratchy pots on my amplifiers.

Didn't work, but now that I have

another camera I thought I'd pull

it apart and give it a bit more

of a direct application.

 

It doesn't look too difficult to

get to the shutter/wheel

assembly, just have to pull the

front and back casings off first.

 

I have thus far focused my

efforts on the wheel, so maybe

I'll try out cleaning fluid on

the shutter button too.

 

Thanks!

 

Brett

[wgpinc]

<p>I just noticed the bargain refurbished T3i and T5i that are on sale at B&H. Very good time to upgrade. I'm thinking of replacing my T2i. Good luck! </p>