Paint for Classic Camera

[steve_stracquodaine1]

<p>Hello, I have a beautiful Mamiya C330S that has just a tiny bit of black pain nicked off one of the edges. Does anyone know if this black paint is Enamel, Lacquer, Acrylic or other? Thanks, Steve</p>

 

[paul_wheatland]

<p>I had great luck with auto touch-up named Toyota black. It seems plastic based dries incredibly fast, brush it with one motion, do not brush it back and forth. Use the brush in the cap which holds the paint in a skinny bottle shaped like a fat ballpoint pen. This works great for touching up scratch or chip. Good luck!</p>

[mwmcbroom]

<p>Almost all black cameras have black enamel paint. A very few are anodized black. If yours has piant nicked off, then it's enamel. Paul's solution sounds interesting. I might have to give it a try. What I've used in the past is enamel pens. I think I bought them at an art supply. They're about the size of a sharpie marker and they have a rattle ball inside. You need to shake them for a while before use. I have one in black and one in chrome that I've used for touching up the brassing on the corners of cameras. The only thing I don't like about them is the enamel goes on thick enough where it is obvious when it dries when closely examining the camera. I really wonder if Paul's Toyota black works better in this regard.</p>

 

[steve_stracquodaine1]

Thank you Paul and Michael for your

responses. The amount of black paint

chipped off is minute, however I can notice it.

My sense is that the thicker enamel paint might work better in filling in the tiny space left when the chip happened. I'm going to have to be super careful in using the finest brush to apply just a small dot of paint. I think I can do it. Thanks again.

[graham_evans2]

<p>Try Micro-Tools, available in the USA or Europe. </p>

[gnashings]

<p>I believe Paul's suggestion is an excellent one especially for small chips - auto touch up paint has a nice thick consistency meant to allow it to act as a form of self filler in the scratches its meant to repair, and is quite durable when cured. As with any paint job, however small - the prep is the most important part, thoroughly clean the area, I would suggest rubbing alcohol to get rid of any oily residues and ensure the repair sticks nicely to the surface. </p>

[Robert_Lai]

<p>As Peter says, use rubbing alcohol first to degrease the repainting area.<br>

I use automotive "Universal Black" (not flat) for any retouching. It dries to a slight gloss, and it is very durable. I've tried the Micro-Tools paints, and they are thin. They also don't adhere very well, as they will rub off quickly with normal handling. The automotive paints are far more durable.<br>

If the finish is a little too glossy to match the rest of the camera, after drying about 10-12 hours, go over the repainted surface with some alcohol again. This will reduce the gloss until it's almost a perfect match. If you use microcrystalline wax (Renaissance) over the painted surface to protect it, the repainted area will not be distinguishable.</p>