robert_coleman2 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 <p>Hi all: this is my first post to this forum so please be kind! I have been reading for a while, but thought I would dive in with a question. Recently I picked up two sweet little tlr's, a Yashica 44 and a 44LM; I don't yet have the 44A, which might be the one I should use. Since 127 film is really history, there have been several articles and projects that come up on Google about using 35mm canisters in the cameras, with varying degrees of success. A search of the forum archives here didn't turn up any specific posts on mod's to the 44, so here is my question: has anyone had success with using 35mm in a Yashica 44? Made any changes to the camera? thanks! bob.c</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 <p>The issue with using 35mm film in cameras designed for films with a paper backing is the question of keeping the film flat. Some TLRs resolve this problem by making conversion kits which not only properly position the film and have guide rails for it to run on, but also have masking for the negatives so one doesn't have bleeding into the next frame. Just so you are aware, there is still 127 film available, but the supplies and suppliers are few in number. Also, although there are processors, the cost is pretty high, so hopefully you would be doing your own if you did use 127 film. I tried a conversion on a 120 camera, but wasn't impressed with the results, and am presently trying out a 120 on a 620 camera.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin McAmera Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 <p>Sorry - I'll <em>start</em> by being negative. Nothing would make me do anything like this to my Yashicas: I think if there's a better 127-film camera than the LM, it must be another of the TLRs. Further, I don't think what you'll get is that good. The reduced format will be 24x40 mm, which would be attractive in landscape orientation, but the waist-level finder is hard to use sideways on. I keep my 127 cameras going by cutting 120 film down to size. There are several discussions of this on the web (including the 127 group at Flickr). There is also the new Rera Pan ISO 100 B/W film, being imported from Japan by several dealers (In Europe, Macodirect has it; in the US, B&H does).</p> <p>Having said that, I remembered this post at Flickr. All this guy has done is to remove the film roller at the bottom of the camera, to make room for the cassette. As long as he doesn't lose the parts, he can reinstate the camera any time.</p> <p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/127/discuss/72157619694358223/">https://www.flickr.com/groups/127/discuss/72157619694358223/</a><br> (and click the picture in his post to go to the gallery of pictures he refers to)<br> There's no effort to stop the film curling at the edges, and I bet it does, but the worst effect will be among the perforations, where it won't be seen. He doesn't mention making a viewfinder mask, but it would be easy to cut one out of card.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aoresteen Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 <p>If I were to do this (and I have no such plans to do so to my Rollei Grey 4x4) I would have it masked off for 24x24mm like the Robot cameras. Then no need to turn the camera on it's side.</p> <p>SK Grimes could do the conversion but bring you check book!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_502260 Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 <p>An alternative would be to buy a long roll of 46mm wide b&w film from Ilford when it has its ULF (Ultra Large Format) program in 2015. You can re-use the backing paper and spools from you old rolls. I am thinking about doing this myself.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_coleman2 Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 <p>Thanks for the responses and thoughtful suggestions. As one who tries to maintain his cameras in the best of shape and original, I wouldn't hack a 44 up just for jollies. Here is a longer collection of my thoughts which I had almost sent as my opening email:<br> There have been several articles and projects that come up on Google about using 35mm canisters in the cameras, with varying degrees of success. You remove a couple of fittings in the upper film cavity, drop in the canister and tape the film's other end to a spare 127 roll. These are available on ebay is you rarely get one with the camera. The resulting pictures, prints and slides, have an interesting (!!) look to them, and it is a way to put otherwise nearly useless paperweight to good use. <br> Two problems need to be addressed for this to work: indexing the exposures on the film, and rewinding then you finish shooting. First issue, indexing the frames: Some of those using the 44 with the film advance lever (the 'mat' version) experimented with an old roll of film, to see how much film was advanced as each stroke of the lever went by. The result was that one and a half strokes worked at the beginning of the roll, and then just one stroke at the end of the roll. You have to keep in mind what exposure you are on. I found another great idea, using one segment of a plastic binder spine (available at Staples printing dept), taped on the film canister and the pointed part of the plastic clicking in the film's notches. Is is about 12 clicks and then you can do another exposure. However the sound of the lever winder can be confused with the clicks being counted as the film is wound forward. That is why I mentioned the 44A, which has a knob film wind instead of a lever and could be quieter. I tried this with the 44LM, though, but there is a film feeding gear and film winding shaft on a spring that are in the way of the canister and would have to be removed. So in the long run, a 44 with lever would require the least amount of modification; the camera can be brought back to original condition easily. In any case, the film window has to be properly blanked to avoid light leaks.<br> The second issue is rewinding the film into the canister. I have seen a couple of write ups explaining how to rewind the film in a changing bag or in a dark room using a spare film camera, rangefinder or slr. Remove the film from the 44, drop the canister into the open camera and crank the rewinder, being careful not to scratch the film hanking at an angle from the back of the camera. It seems a bit sketchy this way, and is there a more permanent modification to the 44 or 44A?<br> I did see somewhere a video (and I cannot find it again) of some Japanese photog's using 35mm in a 44 with a rewind handle in place of the upper film retainer, identified in the 44 Manual as the "upper film spool locking spring". The film can then be rewound into the canister without opening the back of the camera. I am wondering if anyone has tried this modification? I took the upper spool unit off and found an opening of about 1/2 inch wide, so I need to find a rewind unit to fit in the space. I do have couple of Yashica Electro 35 bodies around, and will measure the diameter of the rewind unit when I have one broken down. They are easily acquired on line, especially when dIt is possible that a rubber o-ring or two might fill the gap. Or I might be looking for a machinist to make a fitting into which a rewinder post could be dropped. <br> Has anyone out there tried such a modification, or should I wait for 127 film to become available, or continue to use the 44 as a cute little paperweight?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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