Mamiya RB67 Professional S Fogged film

[flynn]

<p>Hello, I am experienced in medium format photography especially shooting Hasselblad and Bronica and just started to use Mamiya RB67 Professional S and need some help.<br>

I am getting great images.. sharp and all is good but I started to use Mirror lockup and my 120 Black and White roll got consistently fogged on the left side of the frame. It is only second roll of film with this camera and first one was just fine.<br>

Is it possible that using mirror lockup which means putting cable release directly into the lens and click regular shutter first for mirror lockup and than cable release to make exposure - can this be a problem with fogging film?<br>

2 frames on the same roll when I didn't use mirror lock up are fine and 8 when I did use it are fogged on the left side.<br>

I used 3 different lenses with this roll: 250mm, 90mm and 65mm and all 3 produced same fogging on the same part of the frame.<br>

Here is link to the fogged image of Scienceworld in Vancouver:<br>

<a href="https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/1402801_736088359804766_5043662493252854984_o.jpg">1402801_736088359804766_5043662493252854984_o.jpg</a><br>

Thank you very much.<br>

Peter</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>You definitely have a light leak. With the mirror lockup activated, you are presenting a worse case scenario. Until you get your camera checked, I would not use that feature.</p>

[c_watson1]

<p>For anything other than helllishly long night shots, I rarely use my RB67 Pro S's MUP function. There's an off chance there's light entering thru the WLF and getting past the seal around the mirror. After you get a shot framed and focused, close the WLF and shoot MUP and see if the leak is till obvious. Given the position, I'd also check the seal at the hinge on the film back's outer shell.</p>

[wogears]

<p>Yup. Light leak. Seals are cheap and easy to do. Most older Mamiyas need the seals replaced. Several dealers on eBay sell the kits--get the ones that come with the bamboo tools.</p>

[flynn]

<p>Hello,<br />Thank you very much guys for suggestions. I was also doing my thinking and disassembled the magazine and dark slide. I noticed that dark slide is slightly bend - it has a little bump in its shape and now I am thinking that mirror lockup might be irrelevant. Instead each time I was changing lens I put dark slide in the magazine and sun was behind my back - so I think dark slide might work as mirror and each time I insert it in magazine it acted like a bended mirror and fogged the piece of film. <br />So much for name "Dark Slide" :) I think if I replace dark slide or whole magazine fogging will go away.<br />Will report here after I test it again.<br>

Thank you guys!<br />Peter</p>

[thomas_k.]

<p>Mamiya RB's back and rotating plate have a ton if light seals, you have at least one gone bad. I replaced all seals on mine, it took me 2-4 hours (I'm not skilled) including scraping off old ones.</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>That type of fogging - a broad band with one diffuse edge and one quite sharp edge, aligned with the axis of the rollfilm - says "film back seal" to me. I described the geometry which causes that film back light leak pattern <a href="/medium-format-photography-forum/00L2Q4">halfway down this older photo.net thread.</a></p>

<p>Your scan doesn't show the film rebate, but I will bet that the fogging continues over the rebate as well. The rebate cannot be fogged if the problem is at the front or middle of the camera (lens/mirror box/viewfinder), because the film gate shields the rebate from any light coming in from that side.</p>

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