Fastest card to work with 1Ds3

[igord]

<p>Guys, which card available now is the fastest but reliable and 100% compatible to use with eos 1Ds mark iii?<br>

I think about 16 Gb cards.</p>

<p> </p>

[dcstep]

<p>I use the Lexar Professional 1066x Compact Flash UDMA 7 cards in my 7D MkII and 5D MKIII. I've used them for years with no reliability issues and they're fast.</p>

<p>I just moved from 32GB to 64GB because I was regularly filling cards in a couple of hours, shooting Raw only. You'll have smaller files, so you may be okay at 16GB, but the cost differential of going to 32GB is minor, so I'd consider that. Don't go below 16GB for sure.</p>

[gduffy]

<p>I would definitely recommend the 32gb route as well. B&H lists the 32gb at $83.39 and the 64gb at $149.00 I have a first gen 7d (18mp) that gets about 610 shots from a 16gb card and my 5D3 gets about 1066 from a 32gb. Either one is 160MB/s read and 150MB/s write. I have been using SanDisk Extreme/Extreme Pro CF cards for years with no issues. 32gb works for me, I just have several 32gb and several 16gb cards to overcome running out of storage. If I am away for a while I bring my laptop and a WD drive with me for back-up.</p>

[igord]

<p>David, Gary, thanks a lot! <br>

I use smaller cards in case I loose one I will still have shots on other cards.</p>

 

[dcstep]

<p>Igor, I'd suggest not using CF cards for image storage and then you'll never lose one. When you do a shoot, it's not finished until you move the files to your computer AND back up system ("Cloud" or HD). Consider your CF cards as part of your camera and select the size based on what you're likely to need for your "shoot" with the most images that you would take.</p>

<p>I move files off the CF cards after every shoot and the reformat the cards before every shoot. </p>

[igord]

<p>David, I do almost like that, except I leave my laptop in the hotel/car etc and download everything later. In a studio I shoot directly to my laptop often.</p>

[dcstep]

<p>Okay, then I don't get why you're worried about losing cards.</p>

<p>I guess the real question is, "do you ever fill a 16GB card before loading it to a computer or backup?" If the answer is no, then 16GB will do. If the answer is yes, then why not get a larger card?</p>

[igord]

<p>David,<br>

I shoot more then one 16 GB card, it happened to me that data was corrupted, so I had to spend time to recover the photos, that's why I still prefer few smaller cards over one huge.</p>

 

[nilantha]

<p>Igor,<br>

When your CF card got corrupted were you using regular card reader (USB2) or faster card reader (USB3)? I had a similar situation with 32G UDMA7 CF card. Never had a CF card data corruption until that point.</p>

[igord]

<p>Nilantha, I had issues with Sony SD cards (I used SD cards a lot with my Ds), it started already in the camera, I had to download Sony software to retrieve data. </p>

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>There's absolutely no need for a very fast card in a 1Ds MkIII. Most of today's cheaper CF cards will work beautifully with that camera with no adverse affect on performance. </p>

[tien_pham]

<p>Yes, Igor. You are stepping the same path that I took.</p>

<p>I've also use 8GB cards for the same reason as yours. Besides, I want to make sure that my cards are compatible with my portable storages. Mine are 500GB UDMA Colorspace (storage) drives. Well, this type of storage is nice, e.g., upgradable feature, using replaceable hard-drives, etc. But because it uses hard-drive to store, it is vulnerable to shock and stresses, much as PC hard drives are. (However, I hadn't gotten any problem with them when they were transported on a non-paved dirt road.) Its firmware sucks! Typical firmware from Taiwan! Comparable drives/storages are more expensive though.</p>

<p>In the past, I already saw a guy using a Kingston 64GB card (and he had been shooting under the JPEG format too,) and could not back up his pix to his drive. Basically, he trusted his gears too much. All the gears (yes, all of them,) need to be tested before any trip, and always bring along back-ups (I was saved 3 times with this.) The testing is not just testing the gears, but it allows you to get familiar with your gears before going out to the field. Fiddling your gears while in the field is a very expensive experience to get to know them!</p>

<p>Basically, I bought bunch of 8GB cards (8GB x 8/day x 12 days, worst case scenario,) All are 8GB Sandisks (>30MB/s) and 8GB Lexars. Initially, Sandisks were made-in-USA. Now, they are al made-in-China. Same deal with Lexars. So shitty, I guess!</p>

<p>Anyway, these brands worked with my UDMA Colospace drives before. I think Kingstons and Maxells also work, although Maxell stopped giving out their cards lately. Kingstons are too slow for me though. I shoot only in the RAW format. It takes the full resolution of a DSLR. Therefore camera buffer and high write-speed cards are very crucial for me.</p>

<p>Don't shoot in JPEG. The standard of JPEGs is of 8 bits. That means, you are voluntarily throwing away > 5 bits (in the old days, a DSLR camera can only have 13 bits. Nowadays, it is 14 bits.) Shooting in the RAW format, not only preserving the IQ, it allows you to re-develop it later, once your post improves. This is a huge advantage of DSLRs comparing to film-based SLR.</p>

<p>Someone suggested you should bring your 5D. This is a very good suggestion, since DSLR have larger sensor than that of P&S. That means, the noise generated by a DSLR is much less than that of a P&S.</p>

<p> </p>

[igord]

<p>Tien Pham, thanks. 1 Ds iii is a full sensor camera and I always shoot raw files.</p>