Nikkormat FT3 Light Meter- Issue

[arthur_smith1]

<p>So, I took the FT3, a replacement one that KEH sent me, for a spin this weekend. When I first powered on the light meter, the dreaded jumpy needle phenomenon showed up. I then decided to use some intuitiveness, and work the shutter speed dial back and forth for a few minutes. To my amazement, this really seemed to settle the needle down, and the results proved an amazingly accurate metering system.<br>

Should I be concerned with this showing up again? I have already exchanged it here once, and while KEH is great to do business with, not sure I want to keep shipping these things back. Yes, they have that 6 month warranty, but they typically do not service your purchase, they simply replace it with what could end up as another "crap shoot". </p>

<p>A</p>

[Rick Helmke]

<p>As you've said, this is a common problem with Nikkormats. It may well happen again particularly if it sits for long periods. It's just age and wear and lack or repair parts. The Sunny 16 rule works well when I have my Ft2 out. I'd keep it and keep using it.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>It is an amazingly accurate light meter. Sunny 16 has little appeal to me- no shame in using a light meter in my opinion, even if it is on my iPhone. But I do also have a Gossen Luna Pro F. TTL metering does really work beautifully, though. <br>

But that meter bounce was jarring at first. I have never experienced it on my F Photomic FTN, or FE-2, both with manual needles. <br>

Apparently there is a resistor in the FT3 circuit that can build up carbon, etc. </p>

 

[User_5050610]

<p>Arthur--my experience with the Nikkormats--regardless of model--is that if you can get the jumpy meter cured by rotating the ring, it will probably stay that way. The really jumpy meters I've had were due to wear and not easily fixable. The "semi-jumpy" meters--those that can be cured with a few turns of the ring, were not really worn too much, just simply dirty. I'd keep it. Having evangelized all that (:-))--some of the very best B+W photos I've taken are with an old Nikkormat FTn with a totally jumpy meter and the 50mm/f2 non-AI. Once I got the meter needle to a reasonably centered area--and clicked--all was well.<br>

Good luck--I think you'll enjoy the camera.<br>

Paul</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>I think it is one of the most accurate light meters I have ever used. It just seems to consistently nail exposure. By contrast, my D300 with its supposed state of the art matrix light metering, seems to always overexpose, blow highlights, and want to shoot hot. Sometimes less is more. </p>

[Gus Lazzari]

<blockquote>

<p>"work the shutter speed dial back and forth for a few minutes" <strong><em>Arthur S.</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>I cringe with these "<em><strong>redline the engine</strong> to solve rough engine</em>" remedies.<br /> (a few minutes firing, twisting, clicking etc. - Yikes!)</p>

<p><br /> Rather than racking lube <strong>dried out</strong> rings, gears, speed indicator mechanism and detents like sand paper on your precision polished surfaces, try instead to properly remedy the issue.<br /> If sending to a technician is out of the question, try to obtain a parts salvage beater for next to nothing. This so you can "go-to-school" on it to better understand the DIY short-cut I'm about to describe. (Lock up the mirror, heat up the first screw, depth of the needle to apply the drops etc.)<br /> <br /> Just like an audio component with a volume control static issue, after a few years of use or inactivity, it needs to have some solvent with electro lube applied to the brush/carbon resistor surfaces.<br /> A DIY solution avoids tearing down the front lens mount and the 2nd layer chassis frame (4 more flat-black painted screws) which is very delicate, and except for a skilled technician, quite complex to reassemble. <br /> <br /> Rather (here's the short-cut), remove the lens mount screw at the 10 O'Clock position. This will be your <strong>direct access hole</strong> for applying your solvent/electro lube directly to the ribbon that is impregnated with carbon. Of course no spraying! but instead a couple of drops straight down on top of the resistor. The "beater-go-to-school" unit, will provide you with the practice and <strong>backside view</strong> to know how deep the needle etc. should enter the access hole in order to be directly above the "static-ee" component...</p><div></div>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>I may try this. But like everything with these vintage classics, your mileage may vary! </p>

[glen_h]

<p>The ring should stand ordinary use, so if it clears up easily, I would just do that.<br>

But yes, moving the knob back and forth a large number of times may not be the best way.<br>

Reminds me, I have an FTn that seems to work, but the shutter speed selector is very hard to move. </p>

[c_watson1]

<p>Jumpy=wear/dirt issues. In my experience, usually wear which isn't easily or cheaply fixed, especially given the price of the camera. Never found the Nikkormat meters eligible for "legend" status among other 60/40 center-weighted meters from FT3 days. F3s? Another story altogether.</p>

<p>Not sure I'm OK with using a solvent/cleaner on a ring resistor. Deoxit and similar cleans up dirty pots on audio gear but I'd hesitate on camera.</p>

[arthur_smith1]

<p>Out of the F Photomic FTN, F2S, F3HP, and FE2, I have found the Nikkormat FT3 metering the best of all, followed closely by the FE2. Once again, mileage may vary.</p>

[hrvoje_jelavic_sako]

<p>Thanks Gus! It worked with WD40.</p>