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every photo I take is black


f_s2

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<p> was taking mass photos a few days ago, and I had it set to Manual, when after about four photos, the rest started coming out black. I could see through my eyepiece clearly, it took the photo normally, but when I reviewed it they were all black.</p>
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<p>I hate to say this, but has the lens cap been removed?</p>

<p>Can you see an image when you look through the viewfinder? </p>

<p>Can you see an image displayed when the camera is on live view?</p>

<p>Are the images visible when you do image playback? (ie, can you only not see anything once you've transferred to a PC?)</p>

<p>What is the size of the files? (RAWS and JPGs?)</p>

<p>Frankly, your post alone is a bit to broad of a statement for us to give intelligent helpful responses, if you can answer these questions we may be able to be a bit more helpful...</p>

<p> This problem might also be better categorized in the 'Canon EOS' category</p>

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<p>It's not clear if the picture shows any information. First question would be whether the mirror comes up and whether the shutter opens. You can easily check this by removing the lens, setting a long shutter speed (1 sec or so) and pressing the shutter button. Try this and move from there on.</p>
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<p>Exposure data of the attached image: 1/40th, f/5.6, ISO200, lens is a 55-250IS at 55mm.<br>

Probably your image is simply underexposed (also given that according to its data, it is shot at 22:30, so no daylight and the flash did not fire) - ISO200 certainly seems a bit low.</p>

<p>I know a lot of courses, tutorials etc. preach the advantage of learning to shoot in manual, and in essence, I do not disagree. However, if you shoot in difficult conditions (and church interiors can certainly be), and you do not yet have a lot of experience or you're not entirely sure how you light metering is working - do use one of the semi-automatic modes (P,A/Av, S/Tv) instead. It'll get you a usable exposure, and will help you learn estimate light levels better.</p>

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<p>Like Wouter I can imagine situations where the image you posted could be the result of the exposure you set. - Cityscape at night?<br>

Did you shoot RAW? what would be the result of changing your ISO from ultra low to insanely high inside the converter?<br>

Were you intending to use a flash that ran out of batteries or such?</p>

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<p>The obvious question — the one you're probably asking yourself is: is the camera broken? There's an obvious way to answer that question, too. Switch out of M mode and shoot in your camera's Auto mode, or P. Something to keep in mind.</p>

<p>"Chimping" every photo is inefficient and amateurish — but looking <em>now and then</em> is a good idea. Reviewing your shots very quickly when you're done, also a good idea. That way you can catch problems early and make adjustments. Or if you're camera's actually broken, you find out before it's too late.</p>

<p>But I suspect that the diagnosis already offered is correct: The shots are grossly underexposed. Of course I have no idea how dark it was in the church but I shoot manual mode pretty much all the time and my in-church manual settings usually START the ISO at 800. 1/40th sec for the exposure might be okay (although I often shoot a slower shutter speed in church because I use image stabilized bodies and because there isn't usually anything going on in church that requires a faster shutter.) But f5.6 also sounds a bit too stopped down.</p>

<p>If you're going to shoot in M, you <em>must</em> know how to read the in-camera meter. As a full-manual shooter, one of the things I love about using mirrorless cameras (like the Olympus E-M1 or the Sony A99) is that you can see the exposure in the viewfinder as you're shooting. </p>

<p>Will</p>

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<p>The picture appears to be a nighttime shot out of a window looking down on streets lit by lights. A city view taken from a tall building.<br /> Switch back to one of the auto modes (P,A/Av, S/Tv) and all will be well.<br>

In manual mode you need adjust shutter and/or aperture (or even ISO) to get the meter to match the level of light--for each shot!</p>

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<p>I have learned that the camera is capable of a great deal more than I would have thought back in the days of film. In a situation like you've presented, I will shoot both manual and automatic. That way I have the image the manufacturer thinks is appropriate (and with which I may not always agree) and my own view. I will also set the camera for auto bracketing. I find that the auto setting will frequently over expose for my taste. If I'm shooting something in low light -- I usually want the final image to look like low light, unless there is some reason not to. I have also found that I feel comfortable in low light settings to use ISO 1600 or even 3200 on my D7000 and get very good images.</p>
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<p>I've seen your previous post (nighttime portrait of darker skinned males) and this ... my question is (and I'm not trying to be rude): do you understand manual exposure, i.e. the relation between shutter speed, aperture and ISO? If this is indeed city lights at night, the 200 ISO makes no sense. There's a great book for beginners out there, Understanding Aperture which will get you off to a start there.</p>
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<p>You have posted twice about the same issue saying you are desperate yet you are slow to return replies. I told you before to take a picture during the daytime to see if the camera still takes dark pictures. If all looks good in the daytime then your problem is with the flash not firing or connection in the hotshoe. Again I say take some photography classes before you commit yourself to shoot something for someone.</p>

 

 

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<blockquote><p>MODERATOR NOTE:</p>

 

<p>Contributors - please read this thread: <a href="/wedding-photography-forum/00d27l "rel="nofollow"> http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00d27l </a></p> </p>

 

<p>It is the previous thread, which Michael and Katrin reference above</p></blockquote>

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