Nikon F2 Metering issues

[jonathan_newman]

<p>I'v just picked up an F2(original version) from ebay that was listed as having a fully working meter and I'm in the process of testing it but I'm getting some very inconstant results.<br>

<br /> I'm using a Zeiss 50mm Makro(the old ZF version with the prongs) and I'v made sure I index the lens by twisting it side to side after attaching it giving an F/2 readout at the front. The camera was listed as having new batteries and the meter needle does move to the centre position when you press the test button.<br>

<br /> Performance wise the results I'm getting indoors seem to be pretty similar to my D800, say something like F/2 and 1/30 of a second set to ISO 100. As soon as I try it outdoors though the F2 meter starts to massively underexpose, in daylight for example its displaying proper exposure at ISO 50 to be at 2000/1 of a sec and F/16 where as my D800 would correctly read 13/1 of a sec with the other settings the same.<br>

<br /> Is there something I'm missing before I potentially get in touch with the seller?</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Sounds like the meter thinks the lens is at about f/2 or so. If it is actually on f/2, it would give you an accurate reading as you indicate with your indoors example. But if it thinks it's on f/2 and it's actually on f/16, the shutter speed would be off by roughly the amount you describe.<br /><br />Could be that something is sticking. I have four F2 bodies but they are are home. I recall sometimes pushing the meter prong up into the housing and then letting it pop out again, don't recall if that reset anything. <br /><br />You can ask the seller if there's a trick, or others here might know. If it needs repair, google Sover Wong. He repairs nothign by F2 cameras and knows everything there is to know.</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>I wouldn't bother with the internal meter on an F2.</p>

[jonathan_newman]

<p>Thanks for the response Craig, the camera does seem register aperture changes, in relatively low light indoors its giving quite accurate metering, in higher light levels though its recommending exposures that would be massively underexposed.<br>

This just seems quite odd behaviour relative to potential metering problems I'v read about on the net so I wonder if I'm doing something wrong.</p>

[Rick Helmke]

<p>Push the metering pin on the meter head up, toward the top of the camera. If it clicks and the f/stop in the window goes back to the same value each time then it should be working. If it doesn't click then something else is going on, likely just old camera-itis. DP-1 meter heads are pushing 40 years old or more, it may well need to be serviced.</p>

<p>Rick H.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>It sounds odd, and I would not be surprised if the internal resistor is messed up, as such meters often do, or the photocell is on its way out. However, I wonder first of all if you've tried testing it in bright controlled light indoors, to see if it is behaving consistently or jumping. What I think you need to do is to find a source of light that gives the right reading, and then brighten it in an orderly way to see if there is some point at which it jumps out of range. If you can get a really bright light and a white wall, it would help. </p>

<p>If you can't vary the light as much as needed, you might be able to operate the meter in stop down mode, and see if at some point the actual light coming through the lens causes it to misbehave. </p>

<p>although it's unlikely to be the case, just in case....make sure that the meter head is seated correctly on the shutter speed selector, and turning it correctly. </p>

<p> </p>

[christopher_ward2]

<p>pop the finder off. check the battery contacts for 3v. clean the body and prism contacts. if the voltage is less 3v you can pull off the bottom plate and check the battery box. corroded wires or poor connection from the battery box is a known F2 issue. if the meter is still off the resistor ring in the meter is worn.</p>

[robert_bowring]

<p>I think that the first thing that I would do is to replace the batteries. Make sure they are the proper 1.5 volt silver batteries. I also hear that 3 volt lithium batteries will work but have never tried them. I have never had good results from alkaline batteries or Wein cells. Make sure the battery contacts are clean. My experience with Ftn and F2 meters is that if the resistor ring is dirty the meter will be very jumpy. The advantage to these meters is that they are mostly mechanical and can usually be fixed. If you are very careful you can disassemble it yourself and clean the resistor ring. The best thing to do would be to try to find another meter to see if it works on your camera. If it works properly you will know there is something wrong with your meter. </p>

[jonathan_newman]

<p>Thanks for the replies, tried cleaning the contacts but sadly it looks like its just past it. Just contacted the seller and it seems he listed the meter as working after having it in a cupboard for a decade and not bothering to check it at all. Can't say I feel too bad about using ebay returns in that situation having spent hours checking and rechecking that he should have done.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Overexposing in bright light makes me think that you may be letting light into the eyepiece Jonathan. The F2 as with most other film Nikons, is sensitive to light entering the eyepiece. In fact the latest DSLRs are also prone to the same issue - hence eyepiece blinds being fitted to the pro and semi-pro models.</p>

<p>Anyway, to the point. If you don't have your eye fully to the eyepiece, especially with the sun behind the camera, then the meter will read too high and underexpose. Nikon should have provided a little cap to cover the eyepiece of the DP-XX series finders, but never did.</p>

[jonathan_newman]

<p>Thanks for the comment Joe but I'm pretty certain that's not the issue, I'm getting the incorrect metering not only with my eye to the viewfinder but also when metering from a dark room looking out of a window where no bright like can be entering the viewfinder from behind. The shear degree of underexposure is much too great for that to be a factor as well, I'm not using any ND filters on the lens and I'm getting around 8-10 stops underexposure from the meter in bright light.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Sorry to hear that Jonathan. In that case it sounds like the resistor track may have a break in it, or has become extremely dirty. No spares are now available for the DP-xx series finders AFAIK, but they're reasonably easy to get apart if you're careful. There's a thin cord that connects the knob to the resistor track and you need to take care when removing it.</p>

<p>Once inside it's a fairly straightforward job to wipe the slider and resistor track clean using a cotton bud and electrical contact-cleaner. You may still be able to breathe new life into that old Photomic finder. Good luck!</p>

[nic_olas]

On 3/21/2015 at 9:29 PM, rodeo_joe1 said:

<p>Sorry to hear that Jonathan. In that case it sounds like the resistor track may have a break in it, or has become extremely dirty. No spares are now available for the DP-xx series finders AFAIK, but they're reasonably easy to get apart if you're careful. There's a thin cord that connects the knob to the resistor track and you need to take care when removing it.</p>

<p>Once inside it's a fairly straightforward job to wipe the slider and resistor track clean using a cotton bud and electrical contact-cleaner. You may still be able to breathe new life into that old Photomic finder. Good luck!</p>

Joe, is electrical contact cleaner essential for the job or would 99% isopropyl do the job safely?

I've cleaned some meters before but want to be sure its helping not hindering!

[rodeo_joe1]

Sorry for delayed reply. Not checking this site regularly these days. 

On 12/8/2023 at 10:37 AM, nic_olas said:

is electrical contact cleaner essential for the job or would 99% isopropyl do the job safely?

Contact cleaner has a lubricant ingredient, whereas IPA has a dessicant action. The IPA will clean any contaminant off the track, but will increase the surface friction, which may impact the working life (if there's any left) of the resistor track.

In short, I wouldn't choose IPA in preference to a proprietry contact cleaner. It'll clean, sure enough, but long-term.... who knows? 

[orsetto]

The CdS-based needle-readout meter prisms for the F2 are now inexorably following in the faltering footsteps of the earlier Nikon F meter prisms. The carbon resistor rings get worn past the point of cleaning/repair, and one or both CdS eyes fail. Really long-lasting repairs using quality newly-made parts will cost more than most casual F2 shooters would want to pay.

My solution was to opt for the later silicon blue, gold resistor DP3 (F2SB) and DP12 (F2AS) meter prisms and never look back. I have very rarely seen one of these fail, and I prefer them for their available darkness meter range and LED display visible in any light. But if you vastly prefer a needle readout, you'll either need to pay for repairs or look for a newer improved example of the needle-display prisms. 

Comb the second hand marketplace in search of the later version DP1 (pre-AI) Photomic prism, which has slightly newer CdS cells and significantly improved "wire clad resistor" vs the original F/F2 "carbon resistor". The wire clad resistor is more durable and less prone to be jumpy.  The same improvements are found in all examples of the (AI-updated) DP11/F2A prism, many of which still work well. If you prefer using pre-AI lenses, you can easily identify the later upgraded DP-1 version by its meter display. The display is slightly smaller and narrower than the older DP1, and has a tell-tale notch area added on the right hand side of the readout. This notch appears on both the external and viewfinder displays. You can also identify the newer DP1 prisms by serial number, which begins with 6, but checking for the display notch is easier.

Some old/original DP1 prisms were retrofitted with the wire-clad resistor when sent to Nikon for repair back in the day: these may or may not include the telltale right hand display notch. Present day Nikon repair specialists like Sover Wong can also do this upgrade: if a seller cites the upgrade being done to an old-style prism, get contact info for the repair tech and request verification of the serial number.

 

Edited December 21, 2023 by orsetto