Camera Recommendations

[simon_hill1]

<p>@Craig, thanks for coming back to this point. I prefer many of 645 images on the Internet. My web browser should be lower quality than an email attachment, so it still comes across on a PC. Also, in terms of DSLR, I don't think I'd be happy with anything less than a Canon 5D Mk II. That's a £1,000 camera and lens vs £300 to £400 for medium format. I'm not convinced I'll need a scanner, but if I do, then admittedly it's another £200 - £300 which closes the gap down. Lastly, film will help force me to slow down and think more about what I'm doing. If it doesn't work out, then hopefully I won't lose much money in the process.</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>Rodeo Joe:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'd also steer clear of the Mamiya 645 Super, Pro and Pro TL.<br>

The only MF gear that I'd recommend from personal use as an affordable and reliable option would be a Mamiya 1000S, J or similar metal-bodied version.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>C Watson:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'd try to get hold of the newest gear in the best shape you can afford. Relics such as TLRs and the old "heavy metal" Mamiya 645s, like much MF film equipment, aren't as easy to get fixed now</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It's funny, on every thread of this nature where the Mamiya 645 line comes up, you two guys cancel each other out!</p>

<p>I've had several M645 1000s units, and while none was entirely perfect - various issues which ultimately didn't affect photos: like replacing the mushy foam seals, the semi-resetting frame counter that needs to be finished off by poking a finger inside the empty film chamber, the winder slips which waste film, and the dark line across the prism glass - I still keep, use, fondle, and recommend them. </p>

<p>Never had a 645 Super or 645 Pro/ProTL, as I skipped up to the 645AFD for use primarily with a digital back. </p>

[lubos_soltes]

<p>Bronica ETRSi, the next best thing for the money after na RZ67. I have no experience withe Mamiya 645 Pro/TL, but they can be get quite cheap in a full kit (body+back+prism+winder+lens) and for low volume shooting the reliability should be ok. There's plenty of them for sale if things break.</p>

[c_watson1]

<p>Thanks, Ray, for reminding me to spend less time around here.</p>

[rogerwb]

<p>A working Yashica A or Ciroflex are the absolute cheapest ways to get in MF. Focus at waist level, then crop. Cheaper than a prism finder to start out with.</p>