neil_grant Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>I've tried a number of things with varying degrees of success: arctic butterfly, lens pen+loupe. Eclipse cleaning solution leaves the sensor in a terrible mess! Who's using what??</p> <p>thanks,<br> Neil</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_4754088 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>Arctic Butterfly, very carefully. Works fine if you're only trying to remove dust. Smudges or oil may have to go to the shop.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Clemmons Photography Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>For the past 2-3 years, all I have used is the LensPen SensorKlear II. That gets rid of any dust, but for oil residue a wet clean will be required.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_bradtke Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>I use a Rocket Blower for the loose stuff and I use Eclipse swabs for the stuff that is stuck on. I have never had Eclipse leave a mess on my sensor</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curt wiler Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>I step through as much as necessary of a three-stage process with Visible Dust tools: 1) Blower, 2) Arctic Butterfly, 3) Sensor cleaning wet process. I seldom need stage 3, but if there is oily gunk on the sensor then the best fluid is the one Visible Dust makes for oily deposits. It works best with the swabs designed for it (these are coded by color). However, the problem may be in the technique. One pass with each side of the swab is all you can do. More than that is likely to do what you describe. This has never failed, even with a D3 that was throwing oil for the first few hundred actuations. Swabs are expensive, but several of them are cheaper than a visit to the shop.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwight200 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>(1) Rocket blower. Blow out the mirror box and the camera end of the lens. Then mirror up and blow off the sensor. Lens back on and check for spots. I bring up a white page on my word processor and stick the lens right up against it at a small aperture. That way there's nothing imaged and I can do the whole job at my desk. If the first blow didn't work I try a second one.<br /> <br /> (2) If the blower doesn't work, I try the Arctic Butterfly. Same process.<br /> <br /> (3) If the butterfly isn't enough I use the swabs with eclipse. At this point the stuff is probably stuck on so it takes the liquid to make sure you get it off. I generally have to use two or three swabs. The swabs leave streaks of liquid on the sensor assembly that are visible, but they evaporate fairly quickly. Sometimes the first swab will leave some streaky residue. Usually the second one will remove that. Sometimes the second swab will leave some spots, but three have always left my sensor clean enough for me. I don't obsess over every last spot, just the large ones.</p> <p>PS: I use the pre-moistened swabs. That way I don't have to guess how much liquid to use.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 <p>The Copperhill website has instructions on using Eclipse fluid successfully. Don't use too much fluid, don't touch the swab or pad where it is wet or will touch the sensor, and use it one and only one pass.</p> <p>Most of the time I get by using an Arctic Butterfly brush, charged by spinning it in the motorized handle. Never touch the brush with your fingers. Oil from your skin will contaminate the fibers, just as with the Eclipse fluid method.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_brown4 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 <p>The pre-wetted Eclipse sensor swaps seem to work pretty well. Not perfect, but they do make the sensor substantially cleaner.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5711 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 <p>the cheapest way to do it, and one of the best</p> <p>buy dry cleanroom wipes <br /> buy isopropanol</p> <p>and clean your sensor.<br> use a blowing tool to get rid of the big dustbunnies first.<br> hold the camera upside down so the dust will go down to the ground and not up in the air and then get back in with even more dust as company ;)<br> <br /> <br />there are different prices and you can spend much money to almost nothing.<br /> i did pay around 40 euros two years ago..still cleaning.</p> <p>you should practice on filters<br /> to clean filters btw, put them into the dishwasher and use clear rinsing agent only</p> <p>the only thing important to know, do not, never, clean rubber or thin plastic parts or foam with isopropanol. it will destroy the rubber.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwight200 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 <p>One thing you see occasionally is people trying to use the Bulb setting to open the mirror and shutter.</p> <p>This is definitely <strong>NOT</strong> a good idea. In addition to the danger of your finger slipping off the release button while something's in the way of the shutter, using Bulb implies that voltage is applied to the sensor, increasing the chance of attracting statically charged dust.</p> <p>The Mirror-Up setting is there for a purpose. Use it.</p> <p>I'm sure most people know this, but cleaning threads attract people who have never done it so it's good to be complete in the description of what to do and what to not do.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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