metering and close-ups

[walter_degroot]

<p>let me start here. My miranda sensorex with match-pointer and max aperture knob and scale on the pointer lever allows me to meter any lens that can be taped bolted or glued on the camera any way.<br>

NOE witrh newer cameras such as a pentax me super and a match- ( led) Ricoh kr ( k mount) or a canon a series or t serioes camera,how well will these cameras meter a manual or preset lens.<br>

I would like to get a t mount bellows so my other lenses would fit<br>

on the bellows. My hope is to use a newer camera to auto expose while taking extreme close ups.<br>

I know I can still use the older bodies and meter properly. but what aboutr auto-exposure with non-auto lenses on<br>

newer cameras? Years ago with film and processing less expensive, no problem., but today I hesitate to waste a single exposure.<br>

my camera brand 135 ( short barrel) ( bellows) lens<br>

is acxtually a t mount lens and I can also adapt enlarger lenses .</p>

[AJG]

<p>When I first switched to a Pentax MX from a screw mount Yashica, I adapted several pre-set t-mount lenses to the new body. I don't recall any difficulty metering, although I replaced them with auto diaphragm bayonet lenses as quickly as my budget allowed to get the convenience of a brighter viewfinder. If anything, metering may be more accurate since there will be no discrepancy between what light the lens is actually transmitting versus what a cam or electrical connection is communicating to the meter.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

Since the amount of light reaching the film is reduced significantly at close range an aperture priority camera body is the way to go. The ME Super is a good choice as is the Olympus OM-2. I mention the OM-2 as it is capable of very long auto exposures. The T-mount bellows is a good idea and will work fine with aperture priority.

[JDMvW]

<p>As Les says.<br>

Any TTL metering (aperture-preferred, easiest) camera will work, but you will have to expose after manually stopping down.</p>

<p>As for the mount, T-mount if you can find it may be best -<br>

Many of the old Spiratone straight models are still in good shape (and the shift and tilt ones too, but they are expensive if you can find them at all).</p>

<p>It's one of those things where people saw an article on macro in <em>Modern Photography</em>, bought the equipment, and then found out that a little of the procedure went a long way, so the like-new gear went into the closet to be brought out after 30 years and sold on eBay. ;)</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Yeah, I did a report on the PB-4 (as a proxy for the Spiratone units, if you believe it) at<br>

http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00bs1Z<br>

However, if you don't need those features, and few people really do, then any T-mount bellows is a cinch to adapt to many different mounts with that unit's standard T-adapter.</p>

<p>Nikon mount is great if you are shooting that or Canon (w/ adapter), but not so much for other mounts. Minolta is muchly its own story, of course.</p>

<p>I only have three bellows units, but I do have a half dozen or so extension tube sets, if that counts, Les. ;)</p><div></div>

[walter_degroot]

<p>i have a focabel (miranda) and macron. sb 135, and hopefully soona 50mm f.2.8 ( 5 element)<br>

I wondered if somehow I could adapt the bellows or a Kop[il folding bellowsope to take a t adapter to FD or to K mouint.<br>

but I am not a machinist.<br>

I examined a nice ( new in box) nikon bellows ( teo rods and a rapid movement)<br>

I thought of elling the spiratone / nikon bellows and buying a t mount.<br>

( I never owned any nikon products)</p>

 

[JDMvW]

<p>Yeah, I am still looking for a Bellowsmaster™. Even the simpler, earlier version is pretty rare.<br /> However, there are lots of simple bellows units out there, including ones branded as "Spiratone". Some will take M39 (LTM, sort of) screw lenses (standard on macro and enlarger lenses) on the front, but adapters for that are not too hard to find.</p>

<p>For example, on eBay right now http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Bellows%20+T-mount&clk_rvr_id=695794786334&mfe=search . (offering at around 15-20 USD looks common)</p>

<p>I suspect most people will avoid bidding on the $999 asking price Spiratone in original box. :)</p>

<p>What are called "short-barrel" lenses made for bellows work are usually very inexpensive (lots of Spiratone versions of those too). These are manual stop-down and have very flat fields for copy work.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>The original Minolta bellows (not the auto type shown above) came in two pieces, the lower of which doubles as a macro rail with standard 1/4 inch attachments. If you come across a cheap one it's worth getting even if you have no Minolta.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Also there are Pentax M42 screw mount adapters readily available for Minolta so you might find some bargain M42 lenses (some short mount) to use with the bellows.</p>

[Jochen_S]

<p>One thing to keep in mind with ME Supers and similar non LX Pentax bodies: If your lens is rather dim i.e. stopped down+ bellows draw be careful about light hitting the metering cells placed above the focusing screen via theeyepiece of the viewfinder.maybe do some tests with meterin through a capped lens moving the cameraas distant as possible and watching just the meter reqading. - For correct autoexposure you should use something like a viewfinder cap on ME Super.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>Even with TTL metering, exposures can get so long that you wind up with reciprocity failure. If the subject lends itself to lighting with flash then you can use an outfit with TTL flash metering. For making calculations manually you can consult the Manual of Close-Up Photography by Lester Lefkowitz. I have the complete Minolta Auto Bennows III system along with much of the TTL flash equipment and accessories. I use it with an X-700 body with either a grid or plain matte screen. Using a camera with a split image or microprism is difficult for the reasons mentioned. I also have the complete Konica Auto Bellows III and regular Bellows III systems, an Olympus Auto Bellows (no film strip holder), two Canon FL bellows sets and a few other pdd ones. </p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>The OM-2 takes interchangeable screens as well and I think it's finder magnification is higher than the ME IIRC.</p>

[dan_fromm2]

<p>What ever happened to good old adjustments for magnification? The calculations are easy.</p>

<p>With respect to closeup flash, what ever happened to good old Guide Number arithmetic with adjustment for magnification? The calculations are easy. If they're too hard, what ever happened to shooting a series of calibration shots? I'm still using calibration tables I made over thirty years ago.</p>

<p>More generally, why must we use crutches? Is no one here able to walk? The helpful respondents here talk that good old time CMC religion but seem to have lost their faith.</p>

[AJG]

<p>I think the OP was looking for "crutches" and there is no shame in that since he is merely trying to get good results with a minimum of experimentation and expense. You're right that these things can be figured out with test film, math and some tables, but at the cost of considerable time, effort and money. Will this result in better photographs? Maybe, but I doubt it. I say this as a regular user of a Contax IIIa and other vintage equipment for pleasure, but when it comes to paying work it's all DSLRs for me since what my clients will pay for are digital files. Are the DSLRs as much fun as the Contax? No, but they are a lot more productive. And let's remember that our ancient Contaxes and Rolleis, etc. were once cutting edge technology and denounced by some at the time as a detriment to photography.</p>

[dan_fromm2]

<p>Andrew, I take your point. </p>

<p>That said, way back when making a calibration table for my aquarium photography rig cost one roll of film and not very much time. Doing the same for each of my flower flash rigs -- I think I'm up to #7 -- did the same. And once they were calibrated I was set. I still use GN arithmetic when shooting closeup with my 2x3 rigs (Graphics, Cambo SC-1). GN arithmetic still works and the only testing required is to find the flash's true GN. Manufacturers often claim more than their products can give.</p>