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Problem! Unscrewable screw lens.


jo_o_dias

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<p>Hello everybody,<br /><br />Thanks you from now on for any information that you can offer me. I have a problem: I inherited a camera from my grandfather, a Leica IIIf with a Elmar 50/3,5. I really like the camera, but after shooting my first roll and getting it developed in a Kodak store, I stated that something was wrong: all my photos except for 6 long exposures taken in bulb mode were all white with random black spots all over them. I tried to remove the lens to see what was the condition of the shutter, if it was really opening at all speeds, if it was in anyway damaged, but after a good half hour unsuccessfully trying to get that Elmar from the body, I gave up. The lens seem to be alright, the focus rotates smoothly, it wiggles a bit in the infinite position lock but I don't think it's nothing to be worried about. I tought putting some lubricant, but I was afraid that it could get inside any internal mechanisms or optics and ruin something. So, what do you think I should do? Do you have any suggestion on how to remove the lens?<br>

Best regards,<br>

JDias</p>

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<p>These coasters or drawer liners can be found in most supermarkets and drugstores about $1 USD for a package of 4 or a roll of liner. They work better for me than anything else I've tried over the years.</p><div>00cn0T-550721884.JPG.5524c3fd2b191780625b07f2cc6efd89.JPG</div>
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<p>If it were me, I'd find a competent Leica repair person somewhere near. That is to say, what will you do when you <em>do</em> get the lens off?<br>

If you want to fix it yourself, maybe get a "for repairs" FED or Zorkii and try that first for practice. SP (<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=3667779">link</a>) has done a lot of this sort of reanimation.</p>

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<p>Ouch! It sounds like something is seriously wrong with the lens mount and flange interface. I would suspect cross threading with someone having then really cranked down on the lens...<br>

Yes, I second the advice to take it to a competent Leica repair place. Even if it is only a simple fix which we all overlook!</p>

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<p>All of the above. This isn't uncommon, particularly if a lens has not been unscrewed for decades, particularly if there has been high humidity. I don't think it is cross threaded, however the condition of the shutter is anybody's guess, and it probably need attention. It obviously works on B, but maybe that's all it will do. Do you get the normal black separation between frames?<br>

Wouldn't persist too long trying to unscrew it; there are just 4 small brass screws holding the body mount to the body. I also would go to a decent technician.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>"if a lens has not been unscrewed for decades, particularly if there has been high humidity. I don't think it is cross threaded" <em><strong>James E.</strong></em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>I definitely concur with James.<br /> Also, because of the wide flange protecting the threads, applying a substance like WD-40 may not reach the raw threads of the lens mount.</p>

<ol>

<li>Try a bit of heat to possibly soften the hardened lube & debris. (Hot car or hair dryer) Next:</li>

<li>With commonsense as your guide, apply a rubber wrench to the Elmar base & focus tab.</li>

<li>If sufficient force applied doesn't budge the lens, body shell removal along with front plate chassis extraction, then one can see the raw threads from the backside.</li>

<li>With this access you can directly treat the threads for <strong>safe</strong> extraction.</li>

</ol>

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<p>Oh, the camera can certainly be serviced/repaired <em>by a competent person</em> in Leica's. OTOH in the hands of the average person the risk to really "bugger things up" is significant. Hence my recommendation to the OP to take it to a repair person, instead of providing repair tips.<br>

If it were my own camera, I would be tempted to apply ONE drop (NO more!) of lighter fluid (Ronsonol) where lens mount and flange on the body meet. Let this drop seep into the threads and before the lighter fluid dries give the lens ONE twist. If it does not work the first time, off to the repair person! The nice thing about lighter fluid is that it does not dissolves rubber etc or leave an oily residue. The idea is to soften any gunk in the threads just enough to break the bond in the threads. The risk is in applying too much and having this with any dissolved lubricants and gunk seep into the lens and shutter mechanism to cause mischief there...<br>

But, it sounds like the camera is in need of some serious TLC, requiring expertise. So my big picture advice to the OP remains to simply take it to a repair person now and not fuss with it at all.</p>

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I once had a frozen M6 where the film advance lever

wouldn't budge. I thought: "Well it is probably some

debris in the gears, let's push more." The result:

stripped steel gears and a £350 bill.

 

 

 

The sad thing is, I am mechanically inclined with many

camera and lens repairs under my belt. I don't why I was

that stupid at that particular moment. :-)

 

 

 

K.

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<p>It's going to need a new shutter. The IIIf shutter material wasn't quite as good as the pre-war stuff. I'd send it t Youxin Ye, YYE Camera. If it can be fixed, he can do it. He's pretty fast too.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

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<p>Hello everyone,<br /> I'd like to star this response by thanking you all. After searching everywhere without success for people with similar problems and possible ways of fixing it, coming here and in a couple of days getting so many great and informative replies like these, I couldn't be more happy. Also, I'd like to apoligize for not giving any news nor thanking everyone personaly for each post for the past few days, but things around here have been a bit busy and only today I could find the time to properly write you all and thank you.<br /> This said, I've decided this morning to add some WD-40 to the lens and so probably this afternoon I will try to unscrew it with the help of a hairdryer or something similar like some of you advised me, so probably late this evening or tomorrow I'll give you some news. Yes, I'll probably have to send it to an expert repairsman, but even so I'd like to take a peak before and check for certainty that the shutter is stuck or broken or if in it relies any problem of some sort, because there are many variables that could have gone wrong (e.g. bad light meter, bad developing, bad film, my lack of experience and knowlage :P), thus I can't take for granted the failure of the shutter, and also, in my country (Portugal), it's not going to be cheap sending the camera and having it repaired or even checked by an expert repairsman.<br /> Thank you all again and I do apoligize for any error in this post, since English is not my main languange and beeing quite young hasn't giving me much time o improve it.<br /> Best regards,<br /> J.Dias<br /> </p>
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