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Yongnuo 560 III or 565 or 568 for HSS with eos 70D ?


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I'm new to

flashes. So if

anything

seems stupid

please do

forgive me. I

just recently

read articles

were that

extra light

could save

some

shadows and

exposing

them

properly and

especially

with birds. I

will be using

the tamron

70-200 f/2.8

VC with the

70D, or may

be in future

I'll get a

better

beamer to

use with the

150-600

once I get

that ( its on

its way ). So

I did a bit of a

research to

find a cheap

solution

which was

more reliable

and got to

Yongnuo. I

would need

shutter

speeds of

1/1000s, I

haven't gone

past that

unless I'm

blessed with

sunlight even

when

shooting BIF.

So my doubt

is simple - I

know first 2

don't have

HSS. But my

doubt is can I

manually set

my Shutter

speed in the

flash and and

do the same,

and in that

case, does

the 560 III be

enough fr my

needs or

even 560 II ?

Or should I

really get

that 568 ? I

don't plan on

using it of

camera nor

will I be using

it regularly.

Any advice

would help. :)

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<p>"..can I manually set my Shutter speed in the flash and and do the same..?" - No, not if I'm understanding your question correctly. HSS/FP (Focal Plane) synch is needed for any shutter speed that exceeds the normal X-synch of the camera, and 1/1000th of a second will certainly do that. FP synchronisation is actually a function of the camera, rather than the flash, and the camera will only switch to FP synch mode when it detects an FP/HSS enabled flash in the hotshoe.</p>

<p>The YN-568EX/ EX II are the <strong>only</strong> Yongnuo flashes to support FP/HSS. As far as I can see from the specifications, none of their other flashes support it at all.</p>

<p>There's a good article on using HSS/FP synch for birding here: http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/view.asp?articleID=1026</p>

<p>The article's explanation of how FP/HSS synch works is a little misleading however. FP synch works by triggering the flash as soon as the 1st shutter blind starts to open. So as long as the flash burst lasts as long as, or longer than the transit time of the shutter, then the frame will be fully exposed to the flash. Normal X synch only fires the flash when the 1st blind has reached the far side of the frame and before the 2nd blind starts to close. (Many flashes actually have a long enough duration when on full power for FP synch to work, and in most cases you need the full power of the flash in such circumstances.)</p>

<p>FWIW, older film cameras often had a simple switch for "X" or "FP" synchronisation, or had separate P-C co-axial sockets for each type of synch. I don't see any reason why we can't still have that straightforward feature on modern DSLRs - except that then camera makers wouldn't be able to hype us into buying their overpriced flashguns quite so readily.</p>

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<p>The Nissin range are very good, but a lot more expensive than YongNuo, while still being cheaper than the Canon or Nikon equivalent. I've been using a Nissin Di866 for some time now and found it totally reliable and very powerful. Not sure if it's the only model that supports FP/HSS, since I haven't looked at the spec of other Nissins. One or two flashes in the Metz range might be suitable as well, but I have no experience of any current Metz model. The Metz flashes that I've used in the past have been very reliable and well-made.</p>

<p>You might also want to search for other threads on high-speed synch in this forum, because it's possible to "fool" a camera into Focal-Plane synchronisation while firing almost any old flash via the P-C socket. I've done this with an ancient Metz 45CT-1, and the results were perfectly useable.</p>

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