Blurred faces

[katie_dejohn]

<p>If I have more than one person in a portrait I have trouble with blurred faces. How can I get all of the faces in focus? </p>

[starvy]

<p>Hi Katie,</p>

<p>Please would you provide some more details with regards to the lens and in particular the aperture used.<br>

If you are using a shallow depth of field, it would once have a focusing area in a small part of your frame. So a 50mm f1.7 used with aperture setting 1.7 would make iy difficult to have two faces on focus at the same time. At f3.5 there would be a greater portion of the screen on focus and as you go up the scale, there would be greater focus. The aperture works in proportion to the shutter speed. So wide open at 1.7 the shutter speed would be higher allowing for a better posibility of an overall sharper picture. However, the shallow depth of field would get in the way if there are lots of different parts of the frame that you need to be in perfect focus.<br>

There are other variants too. Is your camera shaking when taking a picture?</p>

[gus_gus1]

<p>If you are not using a tripod, use one. Don't buy a cheap one, or you will be sorry. Check out places like Keh camera for high quality but used tripods. And like Starvy said, try working with a smaller aperture, like F16. That will increase your depth of field. Keep at it, you'll get it. Gus.</p>

[Spearhead]

<p>A tripod is the wrong answer unless you're not lighting your subject well enough. F16 is the wrong answer. You may be having trouble with depth of field if it's multiple faces, and the best way to deal with that is to get them as close together as possible to a single plane in front of the camera. If that's not it, then you will have to provide some photos that show what you are talking about, along with shooting info such as shutter speed and aperture.</p>

<p>Here's a portrait I took yesterday with no tripod. It is sharp enough that I kind of want to blur it slightly. Ask Gus Gus for some examples, maybe there is something to what he says, but you can't tell without anything that gives you some sign of what they are talking about. Pictures are the final proof of what works.</p>

<p><img src="http://spirer.com/RoadVikingsShoot/content/images/large/_P9A4266-Edit.jpg" alt="" width="992" height="744" /></p>

[ObiWon]

<p>My question Katie is 'how are you focussing'?</p>

<p>The answer is to focus using just a single spot and get the key subjects eyes in focus. I know that on both my Sony and Olympus the camera will focus wherever it can using multiple focus points which can end up with the results you are getting. Select the single centre spot, may need a visit to the cameras manual, and use that to focus then re-frame and Robert is your father's uncle!</p>

<p>Yes a smaller aperture will increase you depth of field, but if you are using a camera with an APS sensor the DOF is pretty generous anyway.</p>

<p>Jim</p>

[Tim_Lookingbill]

<blockquote>

<p>If I have more than one person in a portrait I have trouble with blurred faces. How can I get all of the faces in focus?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is how it worked for me by showing you a 100% view along with full frame shot below. I was working blind pretty much focus wise and didn't think I'ld get much DOF or sharpness considering the subjects were moving quite fast.</p>

<p>From the sample I think you can make out about 3 ft (maybe more) of DOF that's tack sharp. I had to prefocus on that one area of white water using auto focus until I got an overall crispy look in the viewfinder. I stayed put and didn't move and just tripped the shutter as each tuber came out. I was standing approx. 15 ft. from the focus point shooting at 105mm, 1/800's, f/8, ISO 200 with 6MP Pentax K100D.</p>

<p>My conclusion on why I got such sharp focus and plenty of DOF on moving subjects was on account of my using a long lens on a DSLR APS-C sized sensor, standing farther back than I would if taking a normal group portrait and <strong>having a ton of light</strong> in order to set aperture at f/8, the sweet spot of most kit lenses.</p><div></div>

[dragoslav]

Much depends on the camera that you have; with out knowing that, it is hard to diagnose the problem. I am assuming this is a digital camera and that there is no cost incurred with film and developing. Go outside to a well lit (sunny) location and find something that is in three or four 'planes' away from you (a fence, trees, bushes, stones, etc.) and take a picture. Look at the screen and determine if all (or how many) of the items seem in focus. Now go indoors to a less well lit place and repeat (chairs, furniture, people in a mall) and see if there is 'blurring'. The less light the higher chance of a blurred 'plane'. It is good to have a tripod but one can not use it all the time; BUT try to brace your body and/or your camera to a wall, post, etc. and see if that helps. I have a Kodak digital that will "refocus" on the nearest item to the lens and ALL faces come out blurred.

[GerrySiegel]

<p>The first thing that comes to mind, without being there or seeing what you see, is to set your camera on a tripod (no downside I can see if you have the room) so you have more control over the shooting parameters. F stop and shutter speed and your own movement with your camera which are all involved in sharpness. <em>And even more important,</em> you can step out behind the camera and talk to your folks and make them at ease and set up the shot like you know them.....<br /> Next is to shoot in a location where there is more light, or I should say enough light--- sounds simple but it takes some scouting of locations you know will work for you. Next is to get the group to move their faces as Jeff says <em>in the same plane.</em> It may seem unnatural to them at the time but getting their 'mugs' in focus is a must before you get fancy. Yes it means, argh,posing them..... You are the director and be firm about posing the group. Next get a copy of Michael Freeman's Portrait book and look at his chapter on posing and lighting groups. As well as other good photo picture books. You can do it.</p>

[GerrySiegel]

<p>I use a tripod or monopod sometimes when I have open shade under a tree. And I will add a flash pop...in this case it was just a Vivitar 285 at low dialed setting. I forget exposure but the kids were all cooperative. Just one example of keeping it as sharp as possible even in shady light by slow 1/30 speed and a little flash to open the eyes. Good luck.</p><div></div>

[William Michael]

<p>Observation:<br>

I'd encourage the OP to engage in conversation, which would very likely greatly assist her resolve the issues that she is having with her Photography.<br>

WW</p>