paul_spencer2 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 <p>I've had my trusty Vivitar 283 flash since my Minolta X-700 and it has served me well. I switched to Nikon (n8008 film camera) and the flash worked just as well. I obtained a Nikon D100 a few years back and the flash worked fine. However, I heard that that flash can kill the D100. <br><br />Well, for Christmas 2013 I bought myself a D800. Not sure if I even want to put my old flash on it. <br>I'm looking for advice, opinions or expert advice. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_demarco Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Some people have risked it, and had no problems. Others have risked it and the voltage fried their dslr. To be safe, if you want to stick with an all manual flash that you are used to, pick up a vivitar 285 HV model. I forget the exact specs, but the voltage is safe for dslr's. you can do a search here or google etc, for details, reviews, and specs from digital shooters who use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owen_omeara Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>I have heard nothing bad but I would check it out well if there is a rumor out there.</p> <p>-O</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andylynn Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Don't do it. They changed the spec at some point - there are some 283s that have a trigger voltage that would damage a D800. It's not worth risking a $3000 camera for a $25 flash. Get a newer flash instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebu_lamar Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>The newer version of the 283 has low voltage the original version has high voltage. If yours made in China and not Korea or Japan then it has low voltage. <br> By the way back when the 283 was introduced it's an Auto flash and not Manual.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Currie Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>If you have a voltmeter you can test the trigger voltage of your flash. Just turn it on and check the voltage between the center pin on the shoe and the contact on the outside edge of the shoe (location varies). That's what the camera's sync switch sees. If it's within the camera's specs you should be all right.</p> <p>The Vivitar 283 is apparently all over the map on voltage, so you can't be sure unless you test it. You can read up on trigger voltages here: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html</p> <p>If you really like the flash and it's not obviously old enough for high voltage, you might consider buying a voltmeter if you don't have one. A cheap digital meter is pretty handy and cheaper than a new flash. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_mcdonough1 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>283's (and 285's) make GREAT slave flashes in addition to your SB flash</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raymond W Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>It is a good idea to check. I have 3 Vivitar 283s, two of them have triggering voltage around a few volts and one has over 200v, not good for any modern cameras.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_simpson1 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>+1 for the multimeter test.</p> <p>I laid out and built <a href="http://ka1axy.blogspot.com/2013/01/converting-old-photo-strobe-to-low.html">a small PCB</a> which can be inserted into an old strobe to reduce its trigger voltage to below 6V. I'm out of boards, but I offer the link to show what can be done if you're technically inclined. Don't throw those old strobes away :-)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m smith Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <blockquote> <p>one has over 200v, not good for any modern cameras.</p> </blockquote> <p><br /><br />Except that most modern cameras ate o.k. up to 250 volts.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>The maximum voltage likely to appear on an old flash's hotshoe is around 350 volts. Nikon have categorically stated that their hotshoe and P-C socket of their DSLRs are only safe with trigger voltages up to 250v.</p> <p>Ignore the voltages often quoted on websites, they're nearly all measured by people who have no idea what they're doing, and many reports severely underestimate the true voltage. Early versions of the 283 may well have a voltage of around 330v on their trigger contact. You may get away with this, but really, is it worth the risk?</p> <p>I have no idea why these old Vivitar flashes continue to have such a following. They have no swivel head and very crude power control. My advice would be to retire that old thing and buy something like a used and very versatile and powerful SB-25, or a new Nissin Di866 if money will stretch to it. Both of these have an absolutely safe trigger voltage of 5v or under.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerry b. Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>If it were me, I would save it up and get a used SB-600 or 700. But you can get a Wein Safe-sync for the hotshoe, and then you will be able to use old flashes without worrying about the voltage issue. A pity to miss all of the TTL flash features of the camera, though.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_bouknight1 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>My 283 with metal "cold" shoe and an 8x10 white card bounce was the bomb back in the day, but I agree with others that a properly set up Nikon SB700 with iTTL is a much better setup with the modern cameras.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uhooru Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>Why even risk it?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_in_PA Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>you're paying 3 grand for a new camera. Pony up the few bucks to buy the right flash for it... or you're SO buying the wrong camera.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_spencer2 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>wow! Some of the responses I really didn't expect. I didn't think about the voltage aspect. Dummy me! Specially when I've always said, "technology is an over growing over baring beast."<br> Btw, yes, it's an auto thyristor 283. I've only used it in a manual mode. Oh, and it's made in Japan.<br> As far as just buying a new flash, I was only thinking of saving some money. I really don't use a flash that often, and I thought using my old flash was a great idea. Considering, the flash worked on the D100 I was hoping it would work on the D800. However, Barry, you sir are right, "why risk it?" <br> So, I will wait until I really need a flash for the D800 and not "risk it."<br> Thank you for the responses, Paul</p> <div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_Embree Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>Two years ago I prepared a crude iPhone video for YouTube that shows how to measure the trigger voltage of a Vivitar 283, using a Radio Shack multi-tester. The video walks a viewer through all the settings for the multi-tester and shows precisely, step by step, how to do the measurement. It's here: . I own five Vivitar 283s, and I've found generally that the ones manufactured in Korea or China are safe, low-voltage versions, while those manufactured in Japan have dangerously high trigger voltages. But it's always best to test each individual flash unit. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member69643 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 <p>It's harder to find a nice, non-dedicated flash these days. I have one that I use with my Olympus OM-D because big-voltage flashes WILL kill the hotshoe. Ask me how I know. :) If you want to go cheap and tried and true, look for a Sunpak 383 Super. Simply the best non-dedicated flash ever made. Bower makes the flash I use on my OM-D and it's got tilt and swivel too.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 <p>Even if you don't use a flash very often, it's not necessarily a bad idea to buy a new one, dedicated to the current camera, every decade or so.</p> <p>There is a device called a Wein Safe-Sync (available widely, Google or at http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245292-REG/Wein_W990560_Safe_Sync_Hot_Shoe_to.html )<br> that will safely let you use old flashes, regardless of their trigger voltage. Of course, I have one, but have rarely used it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polizonte Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 <p>I bought two SB700 strobes for my D800's because they work so well, are portable and lightweight. Latest worthwhile purchase is a Promaster off camera TTL cord; it seems to work well w/ the D800 & SB700 but I would use a vintage Vivitar strobe only as a slave unit. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now