Countdown to first wedding . . . pre-flight check:

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Pete said:

Numbers are also good so you can rotate your equipment so for instance a spare camera battery doesn't sit unused until the day it is needed.

</blockquote>

Yes, that's also a key benefit of labeling camera and inverter batteries--to distribute your charge cycles evenly among your inventory.

Dave said:

When a head or pack goes bad and they all look the same it's a real pain to figure out.

</blockquote>

Yes, especially useful when trying to make note of a problem unit--I also keep a red Sharpie on hand to mark any obviously bad item, "NG," either on the item itself, or on a piece of 1" white paper tape (another standard rental procedure is to apply 1/2" green paper tape over the contacts of freshly charged camera batteries). I also like using those colored rubber charity bands for quick identification of Speedlights, since it's sometimes hard to tell a pile of SB-800s from a pile SB-600s at a glance.

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Ray said:

I have no doubt that you will do great, you have dedicated a LOT of thought to, and planning for, the big event! You definitely have the equipment and it sounds like you have also given a lot of thought to the flow of the events and the associated images that you want to create.

</blockquote>

Thanks! Yes, I've been preparing for this day for quite a while now, and have invested a lot of time in a ton of test shoots in order to get to this point of readiness. These shoots were designed to emulate every type of lighting condition I'm likely to encounter, and helped to vet a lot of equipment and technical issues.

Regarding your equipment cart, since you will have a lot of expensive equipment on that cart how are you planning to secure all of this?

</blockquote>

I'll always be wearing either one or two of the three bodies. The third body will probably be laid nearby within sight, or carried by my assistant. I could also lock-up the third body in an aluminum case, and cable-lock that to the cart for longer-term storage.

The cart will only be staged in three areas: 1.) Exterior formals, 2.) Courtyard, 3.) Banquet hall. In those three areas, the cart is within sight of either one or both of us (everything is within fairly close proximity). While I'm shooting in the church during the ceremony, the cart will remain staged with my assistant at the exterior formals location. The only real expensive thing on the cart is the contents of the lens case, so if left unattended, I plan to cable-lock the case to the cart, and lock the cart to a railing or something.

I wish you the best and based upon several of your previous posts I have every confidence that your first wedding shoot will be a big success!

</blockquote>

Thanks, Ray! A 1,001 things can still go wrong, but I'm pretty confident with everything I've planned, including all the contingencies I have stashed in the back of my mind. Really appreciate your kind words of encouragement!

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Bob said:

Rats!!! I forgot, I wasn't going to advise you anymore! I lied Ralph! Fibbed? Prevaricated? Paltered? hehehe Take your pick! Leave the silver home for that softer look. Use a white umbrella. I know you are bringing the silver! Have fun and use it!

</blockquote>

Ha ha! Bob, you really crack me up! You must be fun at parties! I would love to get a Quantum T5D-R someday! Thanks for the "high-tech" tips! Although it looks like I have a lot of lighting gear, I don't think I bought any of it new (except for modifiers). It was all either used, refurbished, or open-box (I missed getting a Quantum Trio a few months back on eBay by only about $10--love those huge dome diffusers!).

studio460 · April 1, 2014

• Testing Jackrabbit II [back-up to Quantum Turbos].

</blockquote>

Dang! I've only run a few dozen exposures through my just-charged Dynalite Jackrabbit II [Ni-MH] high-voltage pack, and it fires like gangbusters! At 1/8th power, it'll do 5fps+ with an SB-800 (yes, I'm careful about over-heating). Noticeably lighter, and more compact than a Quantum Turbo, I'm really liking these. Although I think they're woefully over-priced if purchased new ($459), and significantly under-powered for the 400Ws strobe they were designed for, they're excellent for powering Speedlights. Plus, it uses the same CKE high-voltage cable as my Quantum Turbos. Now, I'm anxious to re-cell my older, Jackrabbit I [Ni-Cad] to see how it compares.

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Reception (banquet room): AC monolight "backlight" test [corrected photometric data]: • Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ full-power: f/4.0 + 1/3rd @ ISO 100 @ 30' (measured). • Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ 1/4 power: f/4.0 + 1/3rd @ ISO 400 @ 30' (measured). • Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ 1/8th power: f/4.0 + 1/3rd @ ISO 800 @ 30' (measured). Also, in a perfect world, it'd be best to cut the bottom of the beam with something like an 18" x 24" double-net to reduce the output at the "near" side of the source.

</blockquote>

I'm so used to working with hot lights in my day job, I just realized, I could probably just clip or tape a piece of ND gel to the bottom (i.e., around the bottom part of the reflector, with a rectangular piece of gel oriented parallel to the beam) to achieve a similar effect.

pete_s. · April 1, 2014

How's the light spread on the 7" reflector? How about you don't aim the strobe down and shoot it more or less parallel to the floor instead?

PS. Also known as feathering the light.

http://www.misandao.net/9.%20Photography/Photography%20Skills/clip_image002.jpg

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Pete said:

How's the light spread on the 7" reflector?

</blockquote>

The 7" reflector for the Dynalite Uni400 Jr. produces a beam-spread of approximately 65-degrees. Yes, feathering is an effective technique in this application, but you would still need a minimum lamp height some distance above the tallest person in the room (actually, the higher, the better). But, yes, ideally, you would point the center of the beam where you need the longest throw (across the room) so that the natural fall-off would be in the area nearest the strobe.

studio460 · April 1, 2014

Backlighting the reception:

Now that I think about it, given the estimated room size (30'), the above photometrics, and my expected ISO range (e.g., ISO 400-800), I may be able to get away with using my old 150Ws Qflash Model T instead for the backlight (plus, it would be much easier and safer to mount).

I'll probably be CTO'ing my on-camera Speedlight during the reception (and balancing the camera to tungsten), but haven't decided if I want the backlight to go blue, or if I should correct that as well so that it photographs white.

studio460 · April 1, 2014

I had my SC-17 remote TTL cable shortened years ago, and it's the one I still use today. I don't have a back-up--just an SC-29 somewhere.

</blockquote>

Woohoo! I just found a NOS (new old-stock) Nikon SC-17 TTL cable at Roberts Camera! An unexpected failure of that single cable could bring the entire shoot down! I did find my SC-29, but its built-in AF illuminator doesn't really fit on a Newton bracket (I also have a generic-brand 10' TTL cable just in case!)

bruce_rubenstein · April 2, 2014

I'll probably be CTO'ing my on-camera Speedlight during the reception (and balancing the camera to tungsten), but haven't decided if I want the backlight to go blue, or if I should correct that as well so that it photographs white.

</blockquote>

Primary subjects should be color correct (accurate skin tones). Gel the background light so it goes warm and creates separation between the main subjects and the background. Unless, of course, you don't want the viewer's eye to be drawn to the primary subject.

You should really light paint your equipment cart and give the couple a 30" print so they know they really got a lot of photography for their money.

studio460 · April 2, 2014

Accessories:

In production, I think it's always the little things that can either trip you up, or make your work that much easier. I still have a couple of small B+H and Adorama orders trickling in for various accessory items . . .

Chimera Versi adapter for Speedlights:

I decided to build a lighter pole-mounted Speedlight rig for my assistant to lug around. I like the small Chimera speedrings for square softboxes because they're light and compact, but I chose this particular Chimera speedring adapter mainly because it was the only one which adjusts high enough to clear an SB-800 on top of a Flex TT5 (about 6.5"). The Versi adjusts from 4" - 7.5":

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/875122-REG/Chimera_2800_Versi_Speedring_Standard.html

I own a Lastolite pole which has a 1/4-20 threaded post on top of its 5/8ths stud (my Profoto Speedlight speedring has a 5/8" receiver instead--a much more secure method of attachment). Attaching the 1/4-20 receiver on the bottom of the Versi to the Lastolite pole will likely have a propensity to spin, so I'll probably have to apply some Loctite and torque it down with a pair of Channel Locks to secure it.

XP PhotoGear LVF-32 2.5x loupe:

I always use a loupe when shooting outdoors to check exposure and focus in the field. I took my $77 Hoodman HoodLoupe on vacation last year and accidentally dunked it in a river--the dampening grease in the diopter ring got all over the internal optics and became a huge mess. So, I just replaced it, and took a chance on this Chinese import brand--it's great! Super clear and bright! It's also one of the few loupes that has a lanyard (plus, a way to attach it). No diopter adjustment, but at least, I don't seem to need it. I actually prefer it to my Hoodman, plus, it's only $34.95 (note that they make two versions: a 3:2 aspect-ratio loupe, and a 4:3 aspect-ratio loupe): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1005787-REG/xp_photogear_xpvf32_lvf32_lcd_view_finder.html

WhiBal 7" x 10" G7:

I finally ponied up for the studio-sized 'G7' WhiBal card. At $49.95, it's a lot more than those cheap, two-for-$10 gray cards (which are propably 99% near as good), but I really like that it has both a white and black field, plus a focus target (though I wish these were larger since there's plenty of room on the bigger card).

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/716956-REG/WhiBal_WB7_RC_G7_White_Balance_Reference.html

Hoya rubber lens hoods:

I also bought some collapsable rubber lens hoods for the lenses I'l be using the most. I like the Hoya screw-in lens hoods because they're fairly beefy, and their thick rubber construction insulates the lens from mechanical shock. When I'm slinging multiple bodies, I always seem to manage to bang those tinny plastic Nikon lens hoods on some door-jamb or something, so I really welcome the added protection.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/23170-REG/Hoya_H77RH_77mm_Screw_In_Rubber_Zoom.html

Velcro cable-ties:

I bought a pack of Velcro cable ties a while back, but never got around to attaching them to my pile of 25' stingers. Hoepfully, I'll find them tonight so I can finally make my cables more easily wrappable.

Vinyl stick-on type:

I ran out of '2s' so all of my gear still isn't completely labeled yet. I ran to Staples last night and picked up three packs of 1/2" white vinyl type (Office Depot only carries 1" and larger). I also found this cool Ziplock-like plastic folder to hold my WhiBal card which also has see-through pockets which are perfect for storing small pieces of correction gel for my Speedlights.

savagesax · April 2, 2014

OK Ralph - Your post started off asking about your "PRE FLIGHT" check list. Where is the plane?

Since you want to carry all of your toys and use them all, well you forgot 1 very

IMPORTANT accessory. I cannot believe that you forgot this!

Bring one of those remote controlled helicopters or remote controlled planes with the attached cameras on them.

Fly it above the ceremony and all over the reception!

Now your camera system is complete!

I've actually been thinking about trying this. But I'd upset somebody if the batteries failed and the plane crashed hitting someones face or the plane smashing into the $800 cake! I need to find a high school kid that does nothing but

play these types of video and flying games. He/she may be failing school, but they sure can fly those toys.

Ralph, hope this helps! Be sure to post a picture!

studio460 · April 2, 2014

Bob said:

Bring one of those remote controlled helicopters or remote controlled planes with the attached cameras on them. Fly it above the ceremony and all over the reception!

</blockquote>

Quick! Someone e-mail Matt Laur and see if he's available!

studio460 · April 2, 2014

Chimera Versi adapter for Speedlights: . . . Attaching the 1/4-20 receiver on the bottom of the [Chimera Versi Speedlight speedring bracket] to the Lastolite pole will likely have a propensity to spin, so I'll probably have to apply some Loctite and torque it down with a pair of Channel Locks to secure it.

</blockquote>

No Loctite or pliers needed! A couple of strategically placed 5/16" lock-washers (serrated), and voila! No spinning! I'm very pleased with the Versi speedring bracket--it's really light. Plus, now I'm able to shove the SB-800's flashhead completely inside the modifier. I've also attached the Nikon SB-800 diffusion dome onto the Speedlight for a more "bare-bulb" like light distribution.

studio460 · April 3, 2014

48-hour checklist:

• All bodies prepped/packed [case 'B']. • All lenses prepped/packed [case 'L']. • All small grip/electric packed in a single milkcrate. • All large grip staged. Still need to:

• Remove third-row seat from van. • Pack Speedlight case [case 'F']. • Inventory/pack IEC Edison cables. • Buy miniature fast-acting 8A 125V spare fuses for Dynalite Uni400 Jr. monolights (Radio Shack). • Buy large rubber bands (Office Depot). • Buy 1/8" white matte graphics tape (Pearl/Blick). • Remind staff to secure parking space at venue. Expendable battery checklist: • 'AA' • 'AAA' • CR123 • CR2450

studio460 · April 3, 2014

Reception lighting: Banquet room rigging.

I just was able to review some photos of the banquet room, and it looks like I'll be able to mount a Speedlight or Quantum Qflash at either end of the room onto some exposed conduit using just a Mafer clamp and a Photogenic battery clamp (which is a less expensive, though identical-looking version of the Quantum pole-mount clamp designed to mount battery packs to light strands). I'll just use my Dynalite Jackrabbit II to power this Speedlight (since it's smaller and lighter than a Quantum Turbo). I should be able to rig a safety chain through the gap where the conduit curves at the ceiling.

Photogenic battery clamp: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/917739-REG/photogenic_905215_pmc2162_ion_adjustable_multi_clamp.html/prm/alsVwDtl The room really only has one "hero" side, so it's probably just as well to rig only this one side. While I'll have that for the backlight, I'll key my subjects using the pole-mounted, Speedlight-powered modifier I mentioned previously, carried by an assistant. If I do decide on a Speedlight for the rigged backlight, I'll even be able to control its output from my camera using a Nikon SU-800 Commander as an AC-3 like controller (still triggering using the PocketWizard RF system, not the Nikon CLS system). I was planning to mount my SU-800 anyway on the D3s with the 35mm f/1.4 to take advantage of its AF-assist lamp in the rather dark reception hall. So if my observations are accurate, I'll only need the following to rig the backlight: • x1 Mafer clamp. • x1 baby-spud to cold-shoe adapter. • x1 Quantum pole-mount clamp. • x2 safety chains. • x1 6' ladder.

pete_s. · April 3, 2014

Ralph, how do you attach the safety cable to the SB800? Or are you just securing the clamp and the battery pack?

Also why do you need an adapter to a cold shoe? The PW Flex has a threaded hole for a 1/4"-20 bolt where you could mount it. The hotshoe attachment is always the least secure way to attach anything in my experience.

I've also found using the superclamps (same as mafer clamps I believe) that I often put an umbrella adapter on it to get more ability to angle the flash in any direction I want. Otherwise you have to use the flash head on the flash and then you can aim it anywhere you want since it just goes -7 degrees in one direction.

studio460 · April 3, 2014

Church interiors:

I just spoke with the venue and they don't have any problems at all with me shooting formals in the church interior, post-ceremony. Also, from these new images, I see that that there are split-level stairs at the altar providing good elevation for stacking group formals. There also appears to be enough room to accommodate the frame, as well as having enough space for some large modifiers. To save time and cable-dressing labor, I can power my 400Ws AC monolights by inverter if necessary.

The background appears very photogenic, so hopefully I can also set a short C-stand behind the couple/group, and point a Speedlight or Qflash toward the back wall to produce a nice a halo effect. One of the bridesmaids is acting wedding coordinator, and should be calling me back sometime this morning.

studio460 · April 3, 2014

Pete said:

Ralph, how do you attach the safety cable to the SB800? Or are you just securing the clamp and the battery pack?

</blockquote>

Yeah, I've been wondering that myself. I've got it! I can attach a ziptie around the swivel (gotta remember to bring a pair of dykes!), and run the safety cable through that. For the Jackrabbit, I can run a large split-ring through its metal strap-lug.

Also why do you need an adapter to a cold shoe? The PW Flex has a threaded hole for a 1/4"-20 bolt where you could mount it.

</blockquote>

Cool! I'll use the Flex TT5's 1/4-20 receiver then (I'm at work right now, so I don't have any of this in front of me to test-rig).

I've also found using the superclamps (same as mafer clamps I believe) that I often put an umbrella adapter on it to get more ability to angle the flash in any direction I want.

</blockquote>

Excellent idea! I have an extra umbrella bracket in my grip box which can be used for exactly that (and, yes, super clamps are the same as Mafers). Thanks for your suggestions, Pete!

studio460 · April 3, 2014

Telephone conference with church staff:

Just spoke with the wedding coordinator (the church's, not the bride's), and the pastor, and they were both very accommodating. They're reserving a parking space for me, and allowing me to arrive early to pre-light the courtyard and banquet room (plus, I received approval to hang the backlight). Use of strobes during the procession/recession is fine, but not during the ceremony (there are no restrictions on shooting positions). I even have a staging area for my gear inside the church.

pete_s. · April 3, 2014

Just a reminder Ralph. If you don't already know you might want to check the standby settings on the strobes and perhaps also the PWs.

Default settings for many speedlight is that they power down to standby after while if you don't use them. Then when you start to shoot the first shot or shots will be without flash. Some people also have problems not being able to wake up the flash at all after it has gone into standby. All of this is a huge hassle of course when it's up high.

I don't know if the TTL PWs also have standby settings (I use the manual PWs). And the battery pack as well.

Anyway, you may want to check your settings and make sure it works as you intend. Personally I turn off standby on everything so I always know that if it's on, it's on, and everything is ready to go at the drop of a hat.

Things like that can trip you up as you will likely not have any time to troubleshoot anything. It just has to work.

studio460 · April 4, 2014

Thanks for the reminder, Pete! I believe PWs are off stand-by by default, and I think I have all of my Speedlights off stand-by as well. Will check again to make sure. I just finished my final pick-ups:

• 8A 125V fuses. • 'AAA' batteries. • No. 64 rubber bands. • Pair of neon-green Fiskars. • Scotch tape. • Received a new EN-EL4a [first one was DOA] via overnight FedEx (thanks, Adorama!).

• Received spare Nikon SC-17 TTL cable.

pete_s. · April 4, 2014

Good luck Ralph. When you have some time after the shoot, take some pictures of your final gear and rigging and share with us. As well as some shots from the day of course :-)

studio460 · April 4, 2014

Thanks, Pete! Will do! My assistant will be wearing a Nikon 'A' to (hopefully) shoot some production stills.

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