Countdown to first wedding . . . pre-flight check:

[studio460]

<p>In an effort to give the excruciatingly long, <em>"Anyone here shoot with three bodies?"</em> thread a break, I decided to begin this one as I prepare for the big day. I just completed my final order from B+H, which should arrive soon (spare sync cables, coin batteries, etc.). I still have 7 days to order anything I've forgotten.</p>

<p>I decided to forgo a Magliner for now, and went with a ULINE utility cart instead. It's got 8" pneumatic wheels, so it should easily roll over a variety of surfaces. It just came today, and I just loaded it up with some gear to try it out. Monolights, inverters, batteries, shotbags, etc. reside in the bottom shelf. The top shelf holds an aluminum lens case, three bodies, and some accessories--the top shelf also serves as a mobile worksurface--I love it!</p>

<p>One of the first things I always have to check before a shoot is my battery inventory . . .</p>

<p>Batteries [expendable], sets:</p>

<p>• CR2450 [for: PocketWizard TT1, x2 units; requires x1 each]<br /> • 'AA' [for: PocketWizard TT5, x3 units; requires x2 each; Nikon SB-800; requires x4 each]<br /> • 'AAA' [for: Sekonic L-478DR, x1 unit; requires x2 each]</p>

<p>Batteries [re-chargeable], in-inventory:</p>

<p>• Nikon EN-EL4A [for: Nikon D3s--x4 in inventory]<br /> • Nikon EN-EL15 [for: Nikon D800E--x4 in inventory]<br /> • Quantum Turbo [for: Nikon SB-800--x2 in inventory]<br /> • Enersys PC680 [for: Dynalite XP-1100 AC inverter--x3 in inventory]<br /> • VMB8.8A [for: Vagabond Mini-Lithium AC inverter--x2 in inventory]<br /> <br /> [Have to remember to also buy some spare fuses for my Dynalite Uni400 Jrs. I already have spare flash tubes for everything].</p>

[pete_s.]

<p>Ralph, I'd go for recharchargables AA and AAA. They have much higher capacity than alkalines.</p>

<p>Eneloop type batteries have very low self discharge so they work great in pocketwizards and other low current devices as well as high current applications like speedlights.</p>

<p>Even if you intend to use your Quantums it's nice to be able to shoot without it. It's also nice to be able to shoot without it if you have problems.</p>

<p> </p>

[studio460]

<p>Been meaning to buy some Eneloops! I've been hearing good things about the AmazonBasics 2,000 mAh, Ni-MH pre-charged, rechargeable 'AAs', too.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Expendables:</p>

<p>• Rosco lens tissue.<br /> • Rosco lens fluid.<br /> • Can of Dust-Off.<br /> • Sheet of 1/2 CTO.<br /> • 2" roll yellow gaffer's tape.<br /> • 1" roll white paper tape.<br /> • 1" roll green paper tape.<br /> • 1" Velcro hook-and-loop tape.<br /> • Large rubber bands.<br /> • Black Sharpie.<br /> • Red Sharpie.<br /> • Roll of Scotch tape with dispenser.<br>

• Gel cutter.<br /> • Pair of scissors.<br /> • LED flashlight.</p>

<p>Grip [miscellaneous]:</p>

<p>• x3 cupblocks.<br /> • x2 wedges.<br /> • x2 pancakes.<br /> • x2 half-apples.<br /> • x2 full-apples.<br /> • x4 safety cables.<br /> • x2 Mafer clamps w/baby spuds.<br /> • x2 Cardellini clamps w/baby spuds.<br /> • x1 Vise-Grip chain-link clamp w/baby spud.<br /> • x2 baby offset arms.<br /> • x1 baby nail-on plate.<br /> • 6' ladder.<br /> • Step-stool.<br /> • Safety cones.<br /> • Assorted grip clips.<br /> • Assorted bungee cables.</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<p>AA/AAA Lithium (non-rechargeable) are also very very good to have. I use 2500-2750mAh rechargeable Ni-MH AAs for 99% of wedding duties, but keep a set of AA Lithiums as an 'emergency backup', given that on occasion the Ni-MH fail to take/keep a charge - Even one bad cell (in a set of 4) will kill the performance of a speedlight almost completely - and a bad cell is not always something you can predict/prevent. <br>

Only had to pull out the Lithiums once, but the set lasted most of the night (far longer than it took to retrieve more Ni-MHs from the bag), and was able to cycle the flash as fast (or maybe faster?) than the Ni-MHs (something no set of alkalines will ever be able to do IME).</p>

<p>I considered doing away with the Ni-MHs, and just using straight disposable Lithiums, given the amount of time spent managing, charging, checking, & 'topping up' the Ni-MHs, but I couldn't stomach tossing 12-20 batts in the trash after every shooting day (plus the cost of course). I also considered pre-charged Ni-MHs, and while they hold charges much better, the penalty in shooting performance (significantly lower capacity) kept me away from them.</p>

<p>If you do go w/ some Eneloops, just don't forget to recharge them all the day before (even if they were fully charged prior), within a few days they can loose up to 20% of their charge (the nature of the battery chemistry) - topping off Ni-MHs is a must!</p>

 

[studio460]

<p>Marcus said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>I considered doing away with the Ni-MHs, and just using straight disposable Lithiums, given the amount of time spent managing, charging, checking, & 'topping up' the Ni-MHs . . .</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yeah, that's kinda why I've been avoiding rechargables--the management overhead. I have two special, "smart" Ni-MH chargers, but I was never able to manage my Ni-MH battery inventory very well (the main problem is that you have to test batteries under a load). But, boy are those Energizer Lithiums <em>expensive</em>! I've also burned up quite a few rechargeable Li-ion specialty batteries, even when properly cared for. That's why I <em>love</em> those big-heavy SLAs for my XP-1100 inverters and Quantum Turbos--they're the most tolerant battery chemistry of all--just keep 'em trickle-charging, and they last forever.</p>

[pete_s.]

<blockquote>

<p>I also considered pre-charged Ni-MHs, and while they hold charges much better, the penalty in shooting performance (significantly lower capacity) kept me away from them.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That is a logical conclusion but unfortunately not correct. The rated capacity of batteries are rated at a discharge current that is much lower than what we have when the batteries are put in a speedlight. When you use them in a speedlight the capacity is much, much lower. The capacity of Eneloop type batteries are also lower at higher currents but not as much. So when you put the batteries in a speedlight you will get the same amount of capacity from 2000mAh Eneloops as you will from 2500 mAh regular NiMh.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If you do go w/ some Eneloops, just don't forget to recharge them all the day before (even if they were fully charged prior), within a few days they can loose up to 20% of their charge (the nature of the battery chemistry) - topping off Ni-MHs is a must!</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Not needed with eneloop type batteries. That is the major selling point. They will stay practically fully charged for many months. That's why they can sell them precharged even if they have sat on the shelf for a year before you start using them.</p>

<p>So the maintenance of using eneloop type batteries is much lower than regular NiMh. You basically use them as regular alkalines. Charge them and put them in your bag or wherever you store them. Use them when needed.</p>

<p>...</p>

<p>Eventually they will hold less and less capacity though and it will be time to replace them. I keep my batteries in sets of four, write a number on them with a sharpie and use them together and discard them as a set when the time comes.</p>

<p>I put my batteries in these pouches. There is room for four sets so 16 batteries in each. I have a couple of these and they have worked very well.<br /> http://www.tamrac.com/products/sasmemorywallet4/</p>

[Marcus Ian]

<blockquote>

<p>That is a logical conclusion but unfortunately not correct. ... So when you put the batteries in a speedlight you will get the same amount of capacity from 2000mAh Eneloops as you will from 2500 mAh regular NiMh.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This has NOT been evidenced by <em>my</em> use. I haven't used their XX 2500mAh cells ... though you should know that their own marketing (and testing) directly contradicts your claim. Eneloop says that a 2500mAh XX gets about 460 (avg 2.5sec recharge) discharges of a 430EXII vs. their 2000mAh which gives 360 (avg 2.5sec recharge) discharges.</p>

<p>While I don't give much credence to the data they've provided (since they haven't provided enough), It seems that both my experience, and their marketing agree: a 2500mAh capacity battery gives <em> significantly</em> more discharges than a 2000mAh one. Perhaps you could give some evidence to the contrary?</p>

[pete_s.]

<p>The XX Eneloop is not a regular NiMH, it's the same type as their usual Eneloop, only higher capacity. So it makes sense that it has higher capacity since we are comparing the exact same type of batteries in two different capacities.</p>

<p>I think the proper technical name for these type of batteries are LSD NiMH (Low Self Discharge) but manufacturers call them other things like eneloop, ready2use, pre-charged, etc.</p>

<p>Regular NiMH batteries that are NOT LSD are the ones that loose their charge quickly. Needs to be topped before the wedding. Works OK for flash, but unpractical for radiotriggers, light meters etc because they'll be completely empty in a few weeks just from sitting unused.</p>

<p>Below is a test I've conducted drawing the same amount of current from the batteries as the flash will do when it recharges. This was done using a computerized battery analyzer which I had for another purpose. This test is equivalent to what the flash will do to the batteries under very, very heavy use. The reason to test the batteries without the flash unit itself is so you don't destroy the flash but still give the batteries a real workout.</p>

<p>The<strong> green curve is the LSD NiMH 2000 mAh (eneloop)</strong> and the <strong>blue curve is regular NiMh 2500 mAh</strong>.<br /> As you can see they follow each other pretty well and in this test the 2000 mAh LSD NiMH actually had a little more capacity than the 2500 mAh regular NiMH. So the real capacity when using a flash was 1700 mAh for the LSD type and 1600 mAh for the regular NiMH.</p>

<p>In real life the capacity is going to be +/- 10% from batch to batch. As they are used the capacity will decline.<br /> So that why I say for all intents and purposes <strong>the lower rated eneloop batteries are equal to higher rated regular NiMH when it comes to flash use</strong>.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[savagesax]

I've had eneloops now for 7 years. The same ones. They last.

 

Try to remember to keep things simple. I've been around this industry for many years. It's OK to bring

everything, however you need to be very careful with the 800 flash unuts and the quantum turbo. The

turbo doesn't mess up and doesn't have a safety switch, so if you take too many shots at one time you

could fry your flash. This is mainly related to full power.

 

Anyway you really have too much gear so be careful and try not to use everything listed. You will miss

shots trying out all of your cool gear! It really is pretty cool!

 

Not long ago I photographed a fire engine for a calender. I set up 4 side mono lights, one light was red

gelled, aiming down under the truck, the firemen watered down the asphalt and it was shot at night. Lots

of reflections from the water. The lights on the fire truck were lit up. Well 5 shots later I was done. I did

take photos of the guys next to the fire truck. That was for fun and for the firemen. So something so

complicated was really simple. Oh, 1 lens and a tripod. Hope this helps and good luck to you.

[studio460]

<p>Bob said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>Anyway you really have too much gear so be careful and try not to use everything listed.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>I should've mentioned that I'm basically building a mini-grip truck--not for just this wedding--but for all types of shoots. I started listing just expendables (so I wouldn't forget to pick up anything important), but then I got carried away listing miscellaneous grip equipment too (mainly because I thought about picking up a couple of wedges and some cupblocks--most of the other stuff I already have). Then I thought, <em>"It sure would be nice to eliminate a stand for a dancefloor backlight,"</em> so then I starting listing clamps (all of the clamps would stay in the van--I would actually only use one, or two at most). I actually forgot to add two bar clamps and a bag of C-47s!</p>

[savagesax]

Sure sounds like you will have a blast with the photography business! Hey, be sure you post some pics, even if they aren't related to weddings.

 

One last thing, be really, really, careful with those canned air. They have oil in them and the oil can leave a mist on the lenses. Uggg. Now thats a workout getting the oily film off of the lenses. I won't get into oil removal on the sensors. Just don't do it, ever. I don't use canned air. I bought a small air compressor, perhaps $50. This thing works great and no oil. You just plug it in. You can probably find one on sale at Sears or some place like that. You can also try a mini vacuum. Not a Hoover! From an electronics store. They work well too. Both of these are safe to remove dust on your camera's sensor.

 

The front element on your lenses sometimes have small dust particles. Don't worry about it. You won't see the dust marks on the photo's.

[dave_wilson1]

It sounds like a LOT of equipment to cover a wedding. Weddings can move SO fast, it's good to keep things as simple

and quickly moveable as possible. A main camera on a bracket with a medium zoom and a good flash with some type of

diffuser and a second camera ready to go. Dual cards a few lenses and flashes, one on a simple stand or stick if you

have an assistant. Extra cards and batteries. That's it. Concentrate on the events and shooting, forget any complicated

equipment. Just my opinion after 700 or so weddings in my cart. BTW, I always bring three bodies, but only use two. One stays in a heavy ziplock bag with a fresh battery and cards installed. I also keep a cheap zoom in a ziplock bag. Bring a golf umbrella in case it rains or other problem unforseen and some blue painters tape comes in handy.

[studio460]

<p>Grip trucks are common in TV/film/photo production--they hold anything you might need to mount or control light, plus other handy items like Duvetyne, apple boxes, rope, etc. Most commercial and fashion shoots have a fair complement of grip rental on any given shoot.</p>

[Dave Gardner]

<p>That's insane...that is a hell of a lot of equipment to shoot a wedding....I would Try to travel light and fast. Like you were in combat for the day. All that stuff will weight you down...and give you an ulcer lol.</p>

<p> As far as batteries...their true test is under 'load'. Doesn't matter what the voltage is...it's the voltage under load that matters. Always try to charge your batteries slowly...charging too fast creates heat...no good for batteries...and when not in use store in a cool place. I keep mine in the refrigerator...holds their capacity longer.</p>

[Dave Gardner]

<p>I forgot to add...Ralph good luck on your wedding....from what i see..you'll do fine.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Dave said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>Like you were in combat for the day.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Right! I totally know what you mean. Everything I'm carrying is "built" for speed. Most of the day I'll be carrying just one flash-fired body <em>or</em> two available-light bodies. The only equipment I'll be <em>wearing</em> is a 3x loupe and a flashmeter. All the rest stays on a cart or in the van. I would just love to hard-mount just one backlight at the reception so I don't have to worry about anyone knocking/tripping over a stand.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>As far as batteries...their true test is under 'load'. Doesn't matter what the voltage is...it's the voltage under load that matters.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Correct! I mentioned this earlier. Is there an battery tester which actually performs such a test under load?</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>I forgot to add...Ralph good luck on your wedding....from what i see..you'll do fine.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks a lot, Dave!</p>

[studio460]

<p><strong>A.</strong> Check/update all equipment firmware:<br>

 <br>

• PocketWizard TT5/TT1.<br>

• Sekonic L-478DR.<br>

• Nikon D3s [A: 1.02/B: 1.02].<br>

• Nikon D800E [A: 1.01/B: 1.02].<br>

 <br>

<strong>B.</strong> Perform exposure tests with new modifiers:<br>

 <br>

• Perform bounce tests with 30"/42" handheld Westcott reflectors (e.g., Nikon SB-800 @ 1/4-power @ 6' = f/5.6 @ ISO 250).<br>

• Perform tests with Westcott 7' umbrellas (e.g., Dynalite Uni400 Jr. @ 1/8th power @ 10' = f/5.6 @ ISO 250).<br>

• Perform tests with Westcott 45" soft-silver umbrella (testing now).<br>

 <br>

<strong>C.</strong> Miscellaneous:<br>

 <br>

• Get various office supply items from Office Depot.<br>

• Take formalwear to cleaners/shine shoes/buy gel-soles.</p>

[studio460]

<p>Westcott 45" soft-silver umbrella tests: e.g., "bridal prep."</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/west45-3.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Nikon D3s + AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G + Flex TT1.<br /> ISO: 250; f/1.8 @ 1/250th; 1/4-flash power (manual) @ 8' (i.e., typical "bedroom" distance).</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/west45-2.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Westcott 45" soft-silver umbrella + Nikon SB-800 + Flex TT5 + Quantum Turbo.</p>

[savagesax]

Leave the umbrellas home. It takes way too long to mess with them. I don't like silver for weddings. A bit

too harsh, another reason to leave them home! Sorry to put a damper on your excitement. Getting into the

techniques of using umbrellas effectively should start off with one or 2 people. Using these for your group

shots could cause major problems, such as light fall off. It's dangerous. Added, a 45" umbrella won't do

anything helpful in the group situations. Dangerous includes harsh shadows, stinky relections off of people

with glasses, lots of other trouble.

[studio460]

<p>Bob said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>Leave the umbrellas home. It takes way too long to mess with them . . .</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>I think they're one of the quickest, easiest modifiers to use. I'm planning to use a 45" umbrella in the bedroom for the "getting ready" shots so I can create my own "available light," where I actually <em>want</em> some spill. I prefer silver umbrellas for more consistent color temperatures (not planning to use umbrellas for group shots).</p>

[savagesax]

OK! OK! I won't bug you anymore!!! Have a blast! We all have assorted styles that work, so we can't beg

you to shoot some sort of special way! As I said before - Have a blast! You will do just fine.

[studio460]

<p>Bob said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>OK! I won't bug you anymore!!! Have a blast!</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Ha! Thanks! I'm really looking forward to it! I've just finished testing every lighting gag, and I'm really pleased with the results. As I said, I'll use the Westcott umbrella (45" or 32" depending on space) for the bridal prep, but I also have a Westcott 30" foldable reflector (assistant-held) to bounce into using my on-camera flash if needed. For the reception, my assistant will only have to carry a very lightweight, pole-mounted rig, where I also plan to have a pre-hung AC monolight to use as a backlight for the room.</p>

[studio460]

<p>I said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>I've just finished testing every lighting gag . . . where I also plan to have a pre-hung AC monolight to use as a backlight for the room.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p><em>[i forgot to test this one . . . ]</em></p>

<p>Reception (banquet room): AC monolight "backlight" test:</p>

<p>• Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ full-power: f/4.5 + 2/3rds @ ISO 100 @ 30' (measured).<br /> • Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ 1/4 power: f/4.5 + 2/3rds @ ISO 400 @ 30' (measured).<br /> • Dynalight Uni400 Jr. w/7" reflector @ 1/8th power: f/4.5 + 2/3rds @ ISO 800 @ 30' (measured).</p>

<p>Of course, I'll have to turn it off when not oriented toward the "back" of my subjects. Ideally, I would rig two backlights--one each, at opposite ends of the room. Also, in a perfect world, it'd be best to cut the bottom of the beam with something like an 18" x 24" double-net to reduce the output at the "near" side of the source. If I had the luxury of a second assistant (which I don't, this time), I would simply produce a backlight using an assistant-carried, pole-mounted Quantum 150Ws Qflash instead.</p>

[Ian Taylor]

<p>Gear is about 10% of the battle in shooting weddings IMO. The other 90% is being able to use it extremely quickly in a rapidly changing environment while dealing with a lot of people. You don't really have time to think about gear too much once it's rolling, so keep it minimal. All that lighting stuff is fun to play with but on the day it's a <strong>lot</strong> of work.<br>

The main thing is to keep loose but focused. And have fun.</p>