Upsizing images to print

[matthew_dale]

<p>Hi,<br>

I know I can print a 10MP image however large I like in reality. However, what I am looking to find out is should I upsize it and how? The images were taken with a Canon 40D and 17-55 or 70-200 lenses so good quality glass.</p>

<p>So, should I have a look at genuine fractals or is PS good for the job, how does perfect resize compare? Will I need to sharpen the photo afterwards too? I saw a youtube clip of someone using clarify in PS - is unsharp mask just as good?</p>

<p>I don't have clarify but I do have PS CS6.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>What size do you want to achieve, and can you control the viewing distance?</p>

[joe_dempsey]

<p>What was once Genuine Fractals is now Perfect Resize. I have used the software since it first hit the streets and would not be without it. The alternative is to use Photoshop Image>Image Size>Check Resample and select Bicubic Smoother, enter your sizes and click OK. Be sure and do this to a copy of the original.<br>

Many users claim the PS method does as good a job as Perfect Resize, but I respectfully disagree.<br>

HTH,<br>

Joe</p>

[joe_dempsey]

<p>OOPS, I should have added a comment on sharpening. Always make sharpening the last thing you do before saving the final image (copy). Enlarging or reducing a previously sharpened image almost always produces less-than-the-best results.<br>

Joe</p>

[matthew_dale]

<p>Oh, sorry, A1 for in my lounge.</p>

<p>Good point about the sharpening. I guess I will have to re-edit it and enlarge before sharpening this time then.</p>

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p>I know I can print a 10MP image however large I like in reality. However, what I am looking to find out is should I upsize it and how?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Start here:<br>

http://www.digitalphotopro.com/technique/software-technique/the-art-of-the-up-res.html?start=1<br>

Serioulsy you don't need to waste any money on 3rd party plug-ins for this! Now if you started with a TINY file (less the a meg) and wanted to go really big, maybe they would be useful. For what you're asking for, completely unnecessary (I've done the testing, out to print which is absolutely critical. Anyone who tests upsizing and evaluates the qualities on-screen is fooling themselves!). </p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

Regarding sharpening: if you are starting with a raw image , for optimum results breakdown sharpening to a two step

process: capture sharpening and output sharpening.

 

Capture sharpening is based on a combination of the camera's characteristics (sensor resolution, anti-aliasing filters, etc.)

and subject matter. Broadly speaking subject matter breaks down into two categories: subjects dominated by broad

areas of smooth tonality ( like portraits ) and subjects with lots of fine intricate detail ((like landscapes and architecture) . If

you use Lightroom, there are two sharpening presets - called "Sharpen-Landscapes" and "Sharpen Portraits".

 

Output sharpening is based on the size the image ( measured in pixels) will be reproduced or printed at, printing

resolution (dots per inch) , method of printing (inkjet, etc.) and media surface characteristics ( generally speaking: glossy

or non-glossy).

 

It also appears in my work that if you can output your raw file at as close to the print size and resolution the better off you

are as opposed to upsizing a TIFF or a JPEG in post processing.

 

Scaling an image in Photoshop CC and CS6 IS DEFINITELY BETTER THAN IN PREVIOUS VERSIONS OF Photoshop ,

Perfect Resize is terrific.

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p>Scaling an image in Photoshop CC and CS6 IS DEFINITELY BETTER THAN IN PREVIOUS VERSIONS OF Photoshop</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Really? I'm not aware of any changes to the actual interpolation algorithm's. Got to dust of CS5 and run some test...</p>

[matthew_dale]

<p>Well I didn't know that about sharpening so thanks, I will have a look at the LR presets.</p>

[david_henderson]

<p>I think bicubic smoother within PS can handle this comfortably, so no need to buy a plug-in IMO, even if the plug in were better which is moot. I would absolutely run a test print though, of say a quarter of the proposed print and look at it from the same viewing distance as will apply to the eventual print.</p>

[matthew_dale]

<p>Yea, I was planning on test printing, it is just additional cost.<br>

Cheers</p>

[digitaldog]

 

 

<blockquote>

<p>Got to dust of CS5 and run some test..</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No difference using Bicubic (in this case <em>Smoother</em>) between CS5 and CC. Resampled up the same file 300% in both. There <strong>was</strong> a difference in Bicubic Smoother between CS2 and CS6 however. I think what Ellis was referring to was the new <em>Preserve Detail</em> option in resize. In tests I did for a Webinair using the older, legacy upsizing algorithm's, the best results on a print upsizing 400% was using Lightroom. Just a tad cleaner than using Photoshop's Bicubic Smoother. The key for best results was proper capture shaprening! When I tested Perfect Resize, it's sharpening (which needs to be invoked) didn't produce a print as good as using LR or Photoshop with proper capture sharpening. That's really very important. Of the three methods I tried, the biggest influence on final print quality after upsizing was based on capture (and of course output sharpening). IOW, all the algorithm's while different didn't make as profound an impact on the print without capture sharpening but with, there were slight improvements using the Adobe products. And they are vastly, vastly faster and processing the images! <br>

IF you have a raw file that hasn't been worked on yet, my advise is upsize in the raw converter (ACR/LR) with good capture sharpening, do all the global tone and color correction then move to Photoshop with the image already at the size you desire. </p>

 

 

[richsimmons]

<p>Very good sharpening tutorial from a fellow Pnetter. <a href="http://www.espacephotos.com/photonet/TUTORIAL/smartsharpen_eng.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Here it is. Make sure you give it a chance to download.</a></p>

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p>Yea, I was planning on test printing, it is just additional cost.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Just print a small but reprehensive part of the image, ideally something that has high frequency details within the image. I did my test on an Epson 3880 only printing an 8x10's that were a small part of a much bigger image.</p>

[rconey]

<p>OK, how do I upsize in ACR? I don't see that function.</p>

[matthew_dale]

<blockquote>

<p>OK, how do I upsize in ACR? I don't see that function.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I second that, how do I resize on import in LR?</p>

[digitaldog]

<p>To resize in ACR, bottom of the UI is the '<em>workflow</em> <em>options</em>' that looks like a web link. Click on that. Not as flexible in terms of sizing options as LR where you set the size in the Export Dialog/Image Sizing area (enter size in the fields for what you wish). </p>

[rconey]

<p>Well many thanks. That is a handy trick. BTW its not labeled workflow options until you click on the line of highlighted information at the bottom of the IU. Then a dialogue box opens that is labeled workflow options.</p>

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p>BTW its not labeled workflow options until you click on the line of highlighted information at the bottom of the IU.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It really should have a ToolTip like the other items in the UI. I'll make Adobe aware of this. </p>

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p> Not as flexible in terms of sizing options as LR where you set the size in the Export Dialog/Image Sizing area (enter size in the fields for what you wish).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Note that's a comment that isn't correct if you're using ACR 8.X, like LR, it allows you to enter any value you wish. In older versions of ACR, you can only resize up in something like two fixed values. </p>

[J.W. Wall]

<p>I have seen it recommended to do upsizing in PS CS6 in increments of ten percent, repeating the process until the target size is achieved. (E.g., Ben Long on lynda.com)</p>

[digitaldog]

<blockquote>

<p>I have seen it recommended to do upsizing in PS CS6 in increments of ten percent, repeating the process until the target size is achieved. (E.g., Ben Long on lynda.com)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Unnecessary with more modern versions of Photoshop (since Bicubic Smoother/Sharper were introduced). </p>

[Kent Shafer]

<p>Lots of good information in this thread.</p>

<p>Just to add to the mix, in the 2011 article linked to below, Jeff Schewe recommends resizing in Lightroom (preferably) or Photoshop to the printer's exact output resolution or a multiple of it (360 ppi for Epson printers, 300 for Canon). On at least one occasion, when I didn't follow that advice and sent an oddball resolution to the printer, I got moiré-like artifacts in finely detailed areas, which went away after resizing as recommended in the article.</p>

<p>Here's the article: http://www.digitalphotopro.com/technique/workflow/the-right-resolution.html</p>

<p>Regarding resizing in Lightroom before exporting a TIFF for additional work in Photoshop, can anyone recommend a strategy for situations where the desired print size is unknown at that time, or where prints may be required in various sizes?</p>

[brad_smith8]

<p>I get great results printing 35mm and 40D (10MP) at 13x19 with <a href="http://www.ddisoftware.com/">Qimage</a>.</p>

[malcom_knight]

<p>I have used PK sharpen on 8mp P&S camera from years ago and made beautiful 17x20s on Epson 3880. No one could tell which were from the p&s and which were from a 12mp dslr. PK sharpen is a plugin for Photoshop. It has a free trial period. Try it and see if you like it.</p>