Fuji X-E1, Tripods and Filters

[zigzag]

<p>Q1: I bought an X-E1 to complement my Canon 5D-II and for travel. The RRS BXE-1 set (http://tinyurl.com/mmplr29) gives me a hand grip and puts the lens axis over the tripod mount point. Does anyone have any recommendations for a light travel tripod for everyday travel (backpacking)? I have seen this one: <a href="http://www.3leggedthing.com/keith.html">http://www.3leggedthing.com/keith.html</a>. <br>

Q2: I have the Lee Filter system (100mm) for my Canon. I have seen the smaller RF75 system but is anyone using the larger 100mm x 150mm GND filters with these mirrorless cameras (with adapter). And if so, what is your experience? (i.e. I don't want to buy two sets/sizes of filters so does anyone have any comments on using these oversize filters on the small cameras.) </p>

 

[johnfarrar]

<p>Tripod: I've a Gitzo 0530 (bought second hand) with a small Vanguard ball head with QRP for my M43 kit; less than a kilo, stable (for its weight) and versatile.<br>

Filters: for M43 I mainly use my old 52mm screw-ins, on step-up rings. For ND grads, I sometimes just hand-hold (I know, I know) 85mm Hitechs over the lens.</p>

[ted_raper1]

<p>I'm using a lightweight carbon fiber tripod by Benro (don't know the exact model; I'm not at home to check), and as the X-E1 (I use the 14mm and 35mm primes) is not a very heavy setup the carbon fiber tripod works fine.</p>

<p>I also use the Hitech ND grads in a Cokin P mount adapter. The only issue with the filters is that they are made of resin - hi quality resin, but resin nonetheless - instead of glass, so you have to be careful not to scratch them. I keep mine in the holders when not in use, and I'm careful with them.</p>

[zigzag]

Thanks - I have found the Benro

MeFoto range of travel tripods which

look compact (with an integral

monopod).

 

The large filters with an adaptor will be

worth a try for me.

[c_watson1]

<p>Have a look at the Manfrotto BeFree line.</p>

[eric_brody]

<p>I have a small Gitzo 1127 carbon tripod with an Acratech head that works well with the Fuji on an RRS L plate. For filters, I use only a few; dense neutral density, lighter neutral density (for flowing water), and a polarizer. All are 77mm which I use for my Nikon lenses. It was relatively easy to put together some inexpensive step up rings to use them with the Fuji. You lose the shade and they do look a bit silly but it's quite functional.</p>

[zigzag]

<p>Thanks, I've bought a (Benro) MeFoto C1350Q1 Carbon Fiber- which should work with my RRS L.<br>

Also, I found a cheap adapter for Lee on eBay so I am hopeful this will let me use my 100mm GNDs. I think that''s me on my way.</p>

[andylynn]

<p>The Benro seems like a good option. Reasonable price, not huge, and the included ballhead is Arca compatible.</p>

[fwstutterheim]

<p>I found it very difficult judging the effect of a graduated neutral density filter on the X-E1 due to the EVF. It looks like the EVF is sort of compensating the effect of the filter by pumping up the illumination of the EVF. It is very difficult to see where the transition zone is. I am not sure yet what is really going on but I was quite unhappy with the effect. Anyway the EVF produces a (sometimes very) unnatural image of the scene. I used the RF75 system. I also own the 100 mm system but have not used it on the X-E1. The RF75 has position marks for the transition zone. The newer (and cheaper) "75" does not have the marks. Take care when ordering a 75 mm kit.</p>

<p>There is a difference in the transition zones between the 100 mm and the 75 mm systems. The 75 is designed to be used with smaller image sizes like 24x36 mm or sensors like APS-C and smaller; while the 100 mm system is more often used with medium format and large format. Therefore the transition zone in the 75 system is smaller. A hard grad in the 100 mm system equals a soft grad in 75. A 75 hard grad is even more hard. A grad like a soft one in the 100 mm system does not exist in the 75 system. You have to take that into account too when choosing the filter system.</p>

<p>At the end of the day I would not recommend the use of grads with an EVF. It is a waste of money. Fortunately I already owned grads for use with other cameras.</p>

<p>Ferdi.</p>

[fwstutterheim]

<p>This is an update to my previous response from July 7:<br>

Well, I have learned that graduated ND filters can be used effectively with an EVF. The procedure is a bit complicated. Before lowering the filter you have to lock exposure in order to prevent the EVF compensating for the filter effect.</p>

<p>The way to go is half pressing the shutter and holding it. Now the exposure is locked. While still holding the shutter half pressed, lower the grad to the desired position and judge the image. When everything is fine, press to expose.</p>

<p>There is is more convenient way to lock exposure by using the AF-L/AE-L button. Set it to one of the functions that performs AE-L. A different setting is for the way this button works: "lock when pressed" or "toggle". See your manual. Toggle is more comfortable for photographers with a slow hand. The downside is this button only works this way in both auto-focus modes (S, C). In landscape photography I prefer manual focus mode (M) and the said button then performs automatic focus but it does not lock AE.</p>

<p>Ferdi.</p>