Compulsive purchase: Rolleiflex SL66

[michael_barnes5]

<p>Not entirely compulsive as I've been toying the idea of getting this camera or a Hasselblad for some months. Well I woke up yesterday, saw an outfit on keh.com, and made my purchase. It comes in about a week and I'm kind of anxious to hear some experiences on this camera.<br /><br />-Handling (vs Blad). From what I hear this camera isn't so great handheld but then neither is the blad. Is this camera any "worse" than a Hasselblad in this sense? I will primarily use this camera for portraits and maybe on a tripod (I prefer handheld and so I would probably do both) but is the fundamental difference only the weight? For my purposes it seems that the weight would be an advantage for handheld. How is the MLU, easy to use, right? How about the slow shutter speeds, from your user experience (compared to say an Hblad). With a 500cm it seems that 1/125 is generally agreeable to be a safe shutter speed but some people to down to 1/60th and ofcourse some even further but anything slower is chancy. Is a Rolleiflex any better or worse? Well, I'd get a feel after a few rolls but I'm just wondering what others think because I can't really get a feel for this and an Hasselblad at the same time unless I purchase both.<br /><br />-Bellows and close focusing. I have to compensate for exposure when focusing closely, right? I haven't had a bellows camera...well I had a Mamiya C220 a long time ago and I think you were supposed to compensate but I don't quite remember. If you reverse the lens, then do you get a different field of view? I read somewhere that it is 1.5x magnified. <br /><br />-Focusing screen. How is the standard focus screen: split-image or matte? (I forgot to call keh.com). This isn't THAT big of a deal but I prefer a plain matte. Any ideas in where to upgrade if it isn't a split-image? Like Maxwel, Beattie, or something? <br /><br />-Anything crucial that I should absolutely avoid doing so that I don't ruin this camera? I'll go over the manual but sometimes there are extra precautions that you should take with some cameras so that you do not ruin them.<br /><br />Well, I think that is about it. I can't wait to play with my new-to-me Rolleiflex! </p>

[frankz]

<p>No experience with Rollei but I can offer an opinion re: the Hassyblad - they're somewhat similar so ...<br>

The Hassy has to be only of the most obnoxious things ever devised (in my opinion only), yet the blasted things seem to be part Energizer Bunny as they're hard to kill. Things work, every time without fail.<br>

The Hassy's lenses are Zeiss - the West German variety - and they make up for each and every shortfall designed into the box by Victor the Swede.<br>

I have a 501cm, a number of film backs in both 120 and 220 flavors and an older and square format Imacon digital back, somewhere around 16 mp. I wouldn't trade that rig for anything and am considering selling my 5D mk II because I prefer Miss Hassy.<br>

You'll find an equal number of people that will say we're both full of bull so - enjoy. You've got a good one.</p>

 

[h._p.]

<blockquote>

<p>Not entirely compulsive</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I rather think you mean "impulsive": <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impulsivity">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impulsivity</a>, unless you frequently buy cameras for no good reason: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compulsive_behavior">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compulsive_behavior</a>.</p>

<p>As to handling: The SL66 is slightly better hand held than the Hasselblad V series, due to the large, side mounted focus knob. Try holding the camera cradled in your right hand, with your thumb on the release button. Then you can focus and adjust the aperture using your left hand. To wind, tilt the camera so that your left hand now supports the camera and you can wind (and set the shutter speed) with the right.</p>

<p>Exposure compensation is only an issue when you get closer than, roughly, three feet. The compensation values are on the left side of the bellows.</p>

<p>They're nice cameras but, like Frank, I prefer Hasselblad.</p>

[sfcole]

<p>I've almost impulsively bought an SL66 for about 10 years now--there's been one sitting in a local shop year after year. Once in a while I pick it up but can never manage to pull the trigger. It's bigger and heavier than a Hasselblad (I have a 500cm), but I like the focusing and especially close range.<br>

<br />I think the main issues for me are: the lenses and accessories are harder to find, and it may be harder to find a repair person. The bellows can also be an issue as they age.</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>If you'll permit me to muse about this camera for a few moments...as it's been a very long time since I've seen an SL66 thread here.</p>

<p>The SL66 is the kind of camera that really attracts you, but then gives you pause before you commit to buy. At least, that's how it's been for me. On paper, the body is nearly everything you'd want in a MF camera - interchangeable everything, 6x6 format, good silicon photodiode metering head option, close focusing built in, Scheimpflug tilt control built in, focal plane shutter which (combined with the bellows focusing) <em>in theory</em> allows all manner of lenses to be mounted, including those which lack their own focusing helix, like view camera lenses.</p>

<p>But the thing that's always made me back off is the disappointing (for me) range of lenses. This was a camera crying out for fast, affordable lenses without the bottleneck and cost of a leaf shutter - consider the Pentax 6x7, Pentacon Six, Norita 66 and Bronica S2/EC systems for comparisons -, yet Rollei gave it the exact same set of slowish Zeiss lenses from 30mm to 250mm as the leaf-shutter Hasselblad; only the 500mm was faster (f5.6), and only the special purpose 1000mm and PCS 75mm lenses were unique to the SL66.</p>

<p>Ironically, if one wants a Rollei SLR with fast lenses, the only option is the <em>leaf</em>-shutter Rollei 6008 series!</p>

<p> </p>

[michael_barnes5]

<p>Impulsive is the correct word, but maybe it was compulsive too :)<br /><br />Anyways, I'm wondering about the fast/affordable lenses. Speed is not my only criteria but it is attractive... <br /><br />Does the Bronica S2/EC systems have fast normals?<br />I had a P6, but I hated it because camera felt too flimsy and I didn't like using it at all. <br />I have thought about a Pentax 67 but I prefer waist-level compositions and the 1:1 aspect ratio. <br />I have thought about the Norita 66 but not too seriously because I feel more comfortable with box-camera designs...I may look more into the Norita because an 80mm f2 sounds fun. A Norita 66 may be a camera that I would purchase on impulse too haha.<br /><br />I don't mean to go off on a tangent because as I'd rather have an SL66/500cm over a Norita but if I were to get another SLR then it would probably be a Norita because of the 80mm f2 lens alone.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

An f/2.8 lens <i>is</i> a fast lens.<br>Not as fast as a f/2 lens, but do we really need that?<br><br>Give the SL66 a chance before looking for something else.

[aplumpton]

 

 

<blockquote>

<p>Give the SL66 a chance before looking for something else.</p>

</blockquote>

 

 

 

Sage comment. Every camera and lens system has its pros and cons. I don't think the cons are responsible for many great photos so we need to steer around the shortcomings and use the pros of the system. The fastest lens on my Mamiya 6 is a normal f3.5 lens. Do I wish a 110mm f2 Zeiss and a Hasselblad? That would be nice, but I would have to give up why I otherwise prefer the Mamiya.

 

 

 

 

 

Don't forget that not all f2.8 and f2 optics are created equally. And numbers are not everything. Even the best optics are compromises and sometimes the extra wide stop is very limited in contrast and resolution and the photographer seeking reasonable quality is forced to shoot at smaller apertures anyway. Sometimes a better solution is to use a faster film or to extend the ISO response of the present film by developer type and time (black and white imaging) or by requesting the color film processor to account for higher ISO exposure.

 

 

 

 

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[sterling_bjorndahl]

<blockquote>I have thought about a Pentax 67 but I prefer waist-level compositions and the 1:1 aspect ratio.</blockquote>

<p>Pentax 67 has a waist-level finder option, and you can mask the ground glass to 1:1 and crop the prints or cut the slides accordingly.<br>

You might find film advance awkward compared to a side-mounted crank, however, when used that way.<br>

There is also a chimney-style finder which is fun to use.<br>

There are a few f/2.8 lenses and the famous 105/2.4 (which is only so-so when shot wide open, in my opinion). The lens lineup is listed at antiquecameras dot net.<br>

Sterling</p>

[bengt1664878721]

<p>Congratulations, Michael - I think you´ve made a great choice. Six or seven years ago, when I retired my fly rod and took up photographing, I needed a camera and my choice was either a SL66 or a Canon Rebel, the price being about the same - I went with the first and needless to say I haven´t regretted a second. A mechanical work of art in its own right, for sure, but to the photographer first and foremost a tool that withdraws and lets <em>seeing</em> take place and be recorded, without fuss.<br>

<br>

About handling: hand-held I personally prefer the Hasselblad V (or a Rollei TLR), it just sits better in the hand. With the SL66 a neck strap is mandatory for extra support. On the tripod is where it comes to its right. About the bellows: there`s a table printed on the bellows rack with exposure compensation numbers for the 80 and 150mm, really handy in the field. Anything crucial? Beyond reading the manual, I think not. You might consider Mannheim`s book - 800 pages or so - about the SL66 system, I believe you can still get it at http://www.sl66.com . Another thing; not all tripod heads allow for the full 8 degrees of tilt, here is one that does: http://www.photo.net/photo/9249991 . And btw, you get <em>13</em> exposures on each roll of 120 film...</p>

 

[michael_barnes5]

 

<p>Don't get me wrong, I know lens speed isn't everything. I only brought it into the discussion because it was mentioned. I have heard of some legendary speed demons, but never one from Bronica. I'm not really looking for another camra per se but if an interesting one is brought into discussion, then I'd like to know more.<br /><br />About the Pentax. I was aware of the WLF option but it just seemed to be more of a prism camera to me. On the tripod it might matter less but the only reason for me getting one is for the 105mm f2.4 but I never felt compelled into getting one because I am qutie happy with my 80mm f2.8. There are a few cameras here and there that I may want, but when it comes down to it, I don't think anything can really top my Rolleiflex (<strong>for me, </strong>ofcourse). This is partly why I considered my SL66 purchase impulsive. <br>

13 images! cool. I had no idea that not all heads would allow for the full 8 degrees of tilt--thanks for the suggestion.</p>

 

[arthur_gottschalk]

<p>One of my favorite photographers, Max Pam of Australia, uses the SL66.</p>

[eskoi.pohjanpalo]

<p>Michael,<br>

This ducktail type of tripod head adaptor gives the full degrees attached to SL66 in any tripod head.</p>

<p>http://www.ebay.de/itm/Rollei-Stativadapter-Rolleiflex-Sl-66-/181194551899?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2a3009725b<br>

Esko</p>

 

[greg_jones1]

<p>I owned the Rollei SL66 and several lenses, metering finders, etc. I now own Hasselblad mainly because I use fill flash a lot when photographing people outside and need the leaf shutters. The basic SL66 has a focal plane shutter that synchs at 1/30th and if heavily used, at 1/15th reliably (indicating need for service). Yes, you can get the 80mm and 150mm leaf shutters but they are older and yes, multi-coating does make a difference in color photography (not so important in B&W). Handholding the monster was not overly pleasant and if you are going to shoot handheld, why not just shoot a smaller format? Handheld off the tripod will almost certainly negate the advanteges of medium format.</p>

[andrew_windham]

Please let me know how this works out for you! I've been torn between the SL66 or a Mamiya Rb67 for a while now and I'm currently

leaning hard in the direction of the Rolleiflex. Except for the slow flash sync (which I never use on film) I cannot find really anything that

detracts from the SL66 system.

 

Regards.

[neil_poulsen8]

<p>What would inhibit me from purchasing an SL66 is the focal plane shutter and its associated 1/40th sec flash sync. I had a Bronica S2a for many years, and these cameras have a focal plane shutter. For me, this made it strictly a tripod camera. One can achieve a 1/250th sec exposure. But handheld, the camera moves in a 40th of a second as the slit travels across the film. </p>