New/Old F1

[bill_force]

<p>Some days is "gooder" than others. I bought an F1 on the net that stated it had a dead meter for $40.<br>

When I got the camera the meter was indeed dead as a doornail but appeared very clean for an old instrument. I replaced the light seals and mirror pad thinking, "what the hey"...I use a hand held meter most of the time anyway with my other film cameras so don't need a meter.<br>

I loaded some film this morning to give it a trial run, mounted an FD lens and started to walk to my small lake for a couple shots. When I got to the lake I looked in the viewfinder and low and behold the meter, needles etc. appeared. Best I can figure is the bright sun shocked the cell and it started. Got back to the house, put in a new battery, battery check worked and now it meters exactly like my AE-1 Program with the same lens. I think my $40. camera gained about $100. in value overnight?</p><div></div>

[Member69643]

<p>Very weird coincidence! I bought my F1 years ago and never really cared if the meter worked. I keep it in the car as my always there camera, loaded with Tri-X. It's worked well, I've abused the poor thing over several years of heat and freezing and such. The images always turn out. Maybe not the greatest, but they do turn out. Yesterday for some unknown reason I decided to pick up a battery and see if the meter even worked. Yep. And dead on accurate just like yours. They really knew how to build them to last, eh?</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>What a find, Bill! I paid many times more for each of my F-1's.</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>Sorry, double post.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>Bill,<br>

You happened upon a classic there. I would guess that a little corrosion on an electrical contact was causing the problem and that a little movement was all it took to make contact again. Great stroke of luck!</p>

[bill_force]

<p>I have to share something else, this isn't the first time it happened either.<br>

4 Years ago I ordered a Fuji S2 that the SAME supplier stated that it wouldn't shut off but at the time it was a super bargain. I thought to myself, why not....if it won't shut off, I'll just pull the battery, that will shut it off. When I got the camera it was clean as a pin. Knowing something about the S2 battery issues I cleaned all the contacts in BOTH battery compartments and a switch inside the Lithium battery compartment. Loaded a fresh set of rechargeables and new Lithiums and it has worked perfectly every day for the past 4 years.<br>

They say you get lucky just before you die, hope they don't know something I don't.<br>

Bill</p>

[leicaglow]

Bill, I have a slug of cameras to send to you for "healing".

[bill_force]

<p>Michael,<br>

My wife says I'm luckier than a "cut cat" but I tell her it simply a fact that my strength is the strength of ten because my heart is "pure"...........Cameras are the lesser of my powers, I overcame colon cancer 6 years ago and cheated the devil, now that is somthing to ponder.</p>

[mwmcbroom]

<p>Good on ya, Bill. May your good fortune continue! $40 is a helluva deal for a clean old F-1. These days, it seems anything under $200 for a clean example is a good deal anymore.</p>

<p>My favorite 35mm SLR has been the original Canon F-1 for almost 30 years now, and of the two models, I prefer the F-1n. Unlike a couple of you, I actually prefer using its meter. The F-1s I've owned have always had meters that were dead-nuts accurate and coupled with a metering pattern that meters the central 12% of the image *only*, I have found that I can usually dispense with a spot meter, even for unusually lit situations, just by maneuvering around that central rectangle to obtain the sort of averaging for the scene I want. Try it sometime. It may surprise you.</p>

[bill_force]

<p>As I alluded to earlier I replaced the "light seals" first off as they were simply a mass of GOO.<br>

Considering the fact that I am retired in South America and my access to parts and material is limited plus the time involved to order and clear customs is frustrating to say the least so I often improvise.<br>

I wanted to share my "light seal" method that I have used on several of my old Canon 35 mm cameras. First off I found a very good quality adhesive that is strong and non-invasive and easy to use and much stronger than typical "rubber cement". After cleaning the GOO off and cleaning the surface with alcohol I use the "CLOTH" side of Velcro fastener in roll form, cut it to size. It is soft, dense, black and has a substantial backing the takes well to the adhesive, in fact the camera now looks like it was made that way. I feel that it will virtually live forever and certainly outlive me. I have done a half dozen cameras with this method and it works.</p>

[mwmcbroom]

<p>Interesting approach, Bill. But what about the 1mm wide (or so) foam seals that fit down in the channel that the back fits into on some cameras? Do you cut the velcro into narrow strips for this as well? How about the foam for the mirror? Have you come up with a good substitute for it as well? And just what is this adhesive you're using? </p>

<p>I could stand to do this myself, having probably 8 or 10 cameras that need new seals. Usually I buy seal kits from Jon Goodman at $10 a pop, but it starts to add up when you've got the backlog that I do.</p>

[bill_force]

<p>The foam for the mirror is a cake walk. On the back of new motherboards for shipping they have a plastic foam pad 1/8" thick that appears to be the exact same material that comes in the reseal kits. I always keep one in my junk box for that purpose. I have done a dozen cameras of most all brands with this material. It is coated both sides but porous in the center and works perfectly for a mirror pad.<br>

In the side "channels" of those cameras that require resealing I use black woolen yarn (stolen from wife). So far I haven't had to use adhesive in these channels, I just poke it in and cut off to length then close the camera. It seems to seat the yard and have never had one come out yet.<br>

First time I have the F1 empty of film I'll take a couple shots of the seal materials.</p>

[bill_force]

<p>Michael, I know Jon's kits are good but my freight and wait is too great. That's why I opted for LOCAL materials. The adhesive is really good but it's made in Colombia and called PL-285 made by Pegatex. I apply it with a toothpick. I tried regular rubber cement the first time but it isn't durable enough.<br>

This cement sticks like <a href="mailto:cr@p">cr@p</a> on a Marines blanket, practically no odor and doesn't let the pads "shift". I'm more than pleased with the results and saved at least a $100. vs. the fine kits from Goodman but transportation, customs etc. are a pain.</p>