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24-70mm f2.8L II vs 24-105mm f4L; 85mm 1.8 vs 1.2L


james_turner6

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Phil

 

I purchased the 5D III when it was first released. At the very beginning it was only sold as a kit with the 24-105. I sold

the lens online for $875. The price difference at the time was about $700

 

In terms it being a fine lens. It is, but Canon has been updating many of their lenses lately - as the MP have increased

over time, any individual lens weakness become more apparent.

 

16-35 f2.8 was introduced in September 2001 the 16-35 f2.8 II was introduced in April 2007 or about 5.5 years

70-00 f2.8 IS was introduced in September 2001, the 70-200 f2.8 IS II came out April 2010 or about 9.5 years

 

24-105 lens IS was introduced in October 2005.

 

When you compare the MTF chart and resolving power of the 2 versions of the 16-35 you will see a huge improvement.

 

Now look at the MTF charts of the 24-70 II and the 24-105. I can really see the difference in sharpness.

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<blockquote>

<p>"In fairness, if a lens<em> requires</em> 'cleaning up' in post to make the imagery 'pop', then that doesn't speak to it's virtues. I personally feel that the 'crispness' should be apparent before you touch a slider."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>You might then be the only serious photographer doing serious print work (assuming you do this) who believe that. Essentially every photographer, with the exception of a few specific approaches to a few particular genres, works images in post just as photographers did in the darkroom when working with film. I do this when I use the 24-105 and I do it when I use the 24-70 II, and I do it when I use a L or a non-L prime. If you shoot RAW, you <em>must</em> sharpen in post with any lens, and you will almost certainly want to at least make some curves adjustments.</p>

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<p>My experience with the 24-105 has been quite good over the last 4 years. In fact, if I was forced to own only one lens this would probably be it. It is just so versatile: the range is superb, the IS is great for hand-held shooting, the IQ is very good, and it is not significantly heavy. I've carried only this one lens (with a FF 5D2) on many extended trips, taken thousands of great images with it, and rarely felt lacking for another lens. With most other lenses you will with have to carry several, or give up something. Sure there are better lenses and I own many of them, but this one (24-105 f/4 IS) is my favorite since it works in so many shooting situations. A true work-horse. I will say though that if Canon produces as 24-70 f/2.8L IS for a decent price, I'd probably give it a look. I suggest you try renting the lenses you are considering for one week, shooting with them, comparing them to what you have, and then make your decision. </p>
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<p>I shoot with a Canon 5D Mark II and the 85 1.2L, 50 1.8, 28 1.8 as primes and the Canon 17-40 F4L, Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC, Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC and Sigma 70-200 F2.8.<br>

Out of all those lens the sharpest and funnest to use is hands down the Tamron 24-70 F2.8, followed closely by the Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6.<br>

If I was purley shooting for artisitic value nothing touches the 85 1.2L. It is not as sharp as the Tamron's which can at times be too sharp. The 85 1.2L is my least used because of its slow focus and extememly narrow DOF at 1.2 makes it really hard to focus. However, when i do get a good shot from the 85 1.2L it is often a great shot. The colors makes it look like an oil painting than a photo but it has a softer look than the really sharp look you get with VR.<br>

For the price vs performance the Tamon 70-300 VR is an absolutely amazing lens.<br>

I have test the Tamron 24-70 VR against the Canon 24-70 F2.8 I and It was very close. Overall, very close but honestly tyher edge with out VR would go to Canon L. However, the VR of the Tamron when needed in my opionion makes it surpass both the Canon 24-70 F2.8 I and II. When shooting handheld video the VR is absolutely a must have feauture....<br>

I also compared the 24-105 IS to the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VR and The Canon did not meet the mark. The Canon 24-105 has so much distortion at 24mm and vertical and horizontial lines bowed awfully. My Canon 17-40 F4L blows away the Canon 24-105 at 24MM.</p>

 

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<p ><a name="00bMwa"></a><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=3835189">Marcus Ian</a> said:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>In fairness, if a lens<em> requires</em> 'cleaning up' in post to make the imagery 'pop', then that doesn't speak to it's virtues. I personally feel that the 'crispness' should be apparent before you touch a slider. I am satisfied with a lens when it is capable of producing imagery <em>out of camera</em> which is as sharp and contrasty as I need it. IMPE, the 24-105/4 was never that lens.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>We're talking about D-SLRs systems here. "D" stands for digital. Whether the user realizes it or not, even the preview that you see in-camera has been digitally processed and someone at the maker has made choices about how the image will be processed for you. The system includes lens and in-camera processor and, for those of us that shoot in Raw, Raw conversion and post processing with software. The system is lens/body/software. It's no longer, lens/body to positive film. To get the best final image, many of us Expose To The Right in Raw in anticipation of improving our ability to pull up shadows, lower the overall level and add contrast. Many successful digital photographers look at the Raw file as a data file and we strive to obtain as much data as possible with the file origination.</p>

<p>Digital Lens Optimization software takes into account how a lens interacts with each specific body that its likely to be used with. There is automated correction at every focal length and every aperture and different correction may be required for a 5D MkIII vs. a 7D or a 1DX. This is not because the lens is defective, but because all the parts of the system interact differently from body to body and lens to lens.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, lenses are not typically tested using the manufacturer's DLO software. We see uncorrected images as if that's the way we use the camera and few knowledgeable users do that anymore. I wish that we could begin to see that sort of testing. I know that, in my case, when I found out about DLO software and applied it to my lenses, it had a dramatic positive impact in my satisfaction with my lenses.</p>

 

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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I have the 24-70 MK I and the 85 F1.8 and have owned the 24-105 and shot both versions of the 85 F1.2. So here are

my thoughts

 

The MK I 24-70 is a good lens but not a great one but on full frame it is noticeably better than the 24-105 I replaced with it

some years ago. I have not had any issues with my lens but it is big and very heavy. If you shoot crop the 24-105 is

probably fine but on full frame the 24-70 has sharper edges.

 

The 85 F1.8 is not a bad lens and a great bargain at the price. Mine is best shot at F2 rather than f1.8 but it is very good

value. I have looked for a while at the 85 F1.2 (both versions) and also at the Zeiss 85 F1.4. Of the three I liked the Zeiss

best but really wanted AF. I have not taken the plunge as for $2000+ I wanted more.

 

I own two copies of the FD 85 F1.2 and it was my favourite lens and I am not afraid of spending on good glass as my

Leica lens collection shows. Somehow I have just not found the willingness to go with the 85 F1.2 as it feels a bit

compromised. I always feel that a MK III would be what is needed for me. All three of the 85 s listed above are very

good lenses - they just don't feel like great lenses.

 

Not sure if this helps but it is my opinion

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<blockquote>

<p>I'll be sure to try some extra sharpening, Sarah, thanks. But extra sharpening = more noise, does it not? That would be a bit of a killer for some of my shots (though I would/should probably be using the 85mm in low light anyway).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It depends. You can use an edge sharpening tool (e.g. PS's "smart sharpen"), which will contribute minimally, if at all, to noise. However, you misunderstand my point. I'm not saying the 24-105 needs extra sharpening. I'm saying that its softness sharpens well, unlike the softness of many lenses that does not. It has to do with the pattern of softness, which on the 24-105 is very Gaussian. Without getting too mathematical on you, if you tune the radius appropriately and don't overblow the strength (like too many people do), the sharpening algorithms work superbly well for miniscule amounts of Gaussian blur as in the 24-105.</p>

<p>FAIW, I find the bokeh of a lens to be a good marker of what will sharpen well in post, as the bokeh says much about the lens' spherical aberration. Specifically, I'm looking for a "neutral" bokeh, whereby an OOF specular highlight produces a uniform spot that neither fades out nor brightens at the edges. Good control for CA is also important. A lens with a neutral bokeh and good control for CA will produce images that sharpen very nicely, in my experience.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>In fairness, if a lens<em> requires</em> 'cleaning up' in post to make the imagery 'pop', then that doesn't speak to it's virtues. I personally feel that the 'crispness' should be apparent before you touch a slider. I am satisfied with a lens when it is capable of producing imagery <em>out of camera</em> which is as sharp and contrasty as I need it. IMPE, the 24-105/4 was never that lens.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Marcus, in all fairness, digital images are first blurred (anti-aliasing filter) and then must be resharpened somehow, so nothing "pops" right out of the camera, unless its a jpg. Even then, sharpness is a property partially of the sharpening settings. I shoot RAW (I think you do too?), so sharpening is actually irrelevant in the camera. I sharpen in post, where I feel I have more control. Because I'm doing the sharpening myself, rather than letting the camera do it, I've become somewhat attuned to the lens properties that make the process easier and the results better. A Gaussian blur pattern seems to be very important in this regard. In fact sharpening algorithms are at their very best when correcting for diffraction blur at small apertures (i.e. almost purely Gaussian)!</p>

<p>It's worth noting that you do a lot of large aperture work, and I must admit that sharpening algorithms do not work as well in those circumstances as they do for the smaller apertures I more commonly use. For the work I typically see of yours, indeed the 24-105 would not be the best choice, not that I regard the 24-70 I as necessarily a better choice. For the smaller aperture work I more typically do, the 24-105 rarely disappoints. Its biggest strength, for me, is its unusual consistency across aperture and focal length, which makes my postprocessing work much easier and more consistent -- and of course better. Maybe this lens is simply easier for me to "know" (in the Zen sense). Maybe it's one of those "YMMV" things.</p>

<p>As experienced photographers, you and I both know that there is never such thing as a universally "best" lens for all photography by all photographers. Right? It all comes down to knowing your needs, knowing which equipment will satisfy them, and indeed learning how each lens must be used. That's why I pointed out to the OP that nobody here can tell him which lens will work best for him. We can only talk "around" the subject, commenting on properties of the various lenses he's considering. Only he can decide which lenses will be best for him. My only point about the 24-105 is that it can be a very good lens (even a very sharp lens whose images "pop") to some photographers.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>That's why I pointed out to the OP that nobody here can tell him which lens will work best for him. We can only talk "around" the subject, commenting on properties of the various lenses he's considering. Only he can decide which lenses will be best for him.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That is (and was always) well understood, Sarah - and I have found the "talking around" very helpful. Thanks for your sharpening-up on sharpening, BTW: I'm super-conscious that my PP ability / knowledge is still in the foothills of a Himalayan learning curve. </p>

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<p>Not to worry... I don't know anybody who's reached the summit, and few venture beyond the base camp. Tip: Try setting your radius for approx. the subjective width of blur of a sharp edge (or perhaps a bit less) when extremely pixel peeped, and then adjust the sharpening strength as necessary, so as not to get halos. At least that's what I do.</p>

<p>Oh, and FAIW, I own the 100/2, which by all accounts seems to be the big sister of the 85/1.8. I'm quite happy with that lens. Given that I don't ordinarily do stuff like stand in the rain with my camera, I find it quite sturdy enough and very fast to focus. Oh, and it's one of those "neutral bokeh" lenses I like in post. :-)</p>

<p>Good luck fine-tuning your outfit! </p>

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